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In need of help: First Time Assembling a Water Loop Has Been a Disaster

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
I had purchased an XSPC EX 360,240 and 120mm radiator. A MCP655-B, Primochill PrimoFlex LRT Advanced 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD, XSPC 1/2" ID barb fittings, EK Supreme CPU block and an XSPC 5.25" bay reservoir.

I thought that I had fixed my leaks (Reservoir was leaking at fittings) but then a leak at my 120mm reservoir and waterblock had popped up. I can't seem to get these leaks to go away no matter what I do and the fittings + hose clamps are very tight. On top of all of this, I had not been able to get my D5 pump to start since I've bought it when jumping the PSU (I had made sure the pump had water in it via the hoses connected to it).

May I have guidance as to what I shall do now? This is very frustrating for me especially since I've never used water cooling before.

Here is a picture of how I have it set up at the moment.
post #2 of 23
Are you sure the leak(s) are from where the tubing attaches to the barbs? Or is it where the barbs screw into the component?
If there were O rings included with the barbs did you use them?
Did you use thread tape? If so, only one wrap around the threads?
There's nothing much simpler and fool proof than barbs and screw clamps.
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post #3 of 23
Did you wet fit or dry fit the hose to the barbs? I generally put a dab of nature's best lube (spit) on the barbs and then slide the hose on. Then use the same lube on the outside of the hose so it doesn't "twist" when you tighten the caps. You don't need to crank the fittings or caps very tight for the o-rings to seal. As tight as you can by hand is generally enough.

As for the pump test it off the setup pulling and pushing into that bowl. Try another PS is you have one. I always use a second PS you test/bleed mine. I just built my first one a few months ago and only had one leak which was I found when I was filling it because I left a res plug off. :doh

I just installed quick disconnects today on my GPU's for easy swaps and had zero leaks doing what I stated above.

Good luck!

SS
post #4 of 23
Thread Starter 
The O-rings were actually installed on the barbs already when they had arrived. I didn't think to put anything on the threads but I've just now applied some (two wraps) and screwed the barbs back in. I'm hoping this all fixes it.

I think I'll try to lubricate them with spit too. I'm willing to try anything to get it up and running.

The testing of my pump outside of the case (in the bathroom) has just been done and it was successful. Maybe the molex plug was not plugged in far enough?

I actually do have another PSU but I didn't feel like searching for the molex cable.

Thank you guys for your replies and I'll report back with the results. I appreciate the help so much.


EDIT: It is leaking from where the hose connects to the barb.
Edited by Allan P - 9/27/15 at 5:10pm
post #5 of 23
I always run 7/16 ID hose on a 1/2 barb. But if you got clamps on those 1/2 ID hoses on those 1/2 inch barbs, you should be fine. Make sure your clamps are squeezing the tube good enough.

As for the pump, I am going to assume you DO NOT have the motherboard plugged while you have all those leaks. So, you still need to jump the PSU to get the pump going (you did not mention you have done so - maybe stating the obvious).
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post #6 of 23
Thread Starter 
Do you think that using 7/16" ID hoses may eliminate this leak I'm having? It seems to be leaking from the hose to barb connection even though I can't get the worm gear clamps any tighter? The pump is working great now!! Yay!! biggrin.gif
post #7 of 23
if youre leaking water between the barb and hose you either have smaller than 1/2" barbs or smaller than 1/2" barbs. i use 1/2" - 3/4" tubing and 1/2" barbs. even without clamps i have never leaked a drop unless i was fiddling with the part that had the clampless tubing on it. double check the size of the fittings.
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post #8 of 23
Thread Starter 
Nope. I had purchased 1/2" OD barbs and 1/2" ID hose. I think that the actual diameter of either the barbs or the hose may be off a bit. I'll try it out again with fresh tubing tomorrow.
post #9 of 23
I will strongly suggest getting 7/16 ID tubes. They may be little tight going in, but it will be leak proof. If you have trouble, just did the tube in warm water for a min and then try.
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post #10 of 23
I had this same issue a month ago setting up my first loop. The issue ended up being pressure. I opened up a fill port on top of my res, and it didn't leak. Now, I have a male - male conector on top of my res, with an open valve screwed into it. Try opening a port on top of the res.
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