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[Build Log] -INTERCEPTOR- a node 804 Build

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
INTERCEPTOR
a compact watercooled SLI build with 6 drives in a FD Node 804 case


STATUS:98%
Because there is no 100% system wink.gif




Hi everyone,

today's my birthday and i decided that I'm gonna take some action and get into water-cooling. I've been building computers since I'm 15 (29 now) for me, my friends and Family. And I've been "dreaming" about owning a nice water-loop during all that time. Or maybe not all the time. I remember the times of air cooler like the Thermaltake Dragon Orb 3, back in those days this, for me, was the ultimate weapon; and the noisier the better, I didn't even know how to properly overclock. Let's just say, people would notice when you switched on your computer at a Lan party wink.gif
It was a great time.
Things changed though and with the time comes reason and quiet computing became an important factor. I switched from a Chieftech Dragon (which was almost modded to dead) to a clean looking Black LianLi tower. But all this time I was Air cooling, an still am at the moment of writing. (Currently on some Nuctua Cooler)
But I just ordered a nice custom water-loop from EKWB. I'm gonna guide you through my order with comments about why I choose the components and would be happy to get some feedback from you veteran water-cooling guys about the choices I made.

Parts List THE RIG (Click to show)
intel i7 3770K (delidded using Vice methode)
ASUS P8Z77M-Pro
16GB Ballasix Sport
2x ASUS GeforceGTX770 DCUII OC 2GB (in SLI)
Fractial Design Node 804
BeQuiet Dark Power Pro 11 (1000W)

DRIVES
1x 128GB SSD (for osx)
1x 256GB SSD (for Windows)
1x 2TB WB Black (Storage)
2x 1TB Barracuda (Raid 0)
1x2TB WB Red (backup disk)
WATERCOOLING Parts (Click to show)
Lets start with the Res/pump combo,
EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
I read some articles and posts about the different Pumps on the market DCC/DCP/D5 and honestly it seems to me that there's always issues. And when I saw the new XRES pump/res compo on the EK site I just went for it. It looks nice and doesn't take up to much space, that for me was an important factor since I want to but this loop into a Fractal Design Node 804.

CPU Block
EK supremacy EVO
Read a lot of good things about the "cheaper" Supremacy MX, but went for the EVO for a couple of reasons. I want to eventually upgrade to an X99 or similar (Sandybridge-E, will hopefully be released Q3 next Year) And the EVO series got all the mounting & inserts included (if I'm not mistaking)
Secondly, even though EK claims that by purchasing the additional pieces (inserts mounting plates...) one can upgrade the MX to an EVO, it seams to me that they have 2 slightly different designs. MX looks like the 1/4" threads are made of plastic ore something.

Radiators
EK-CoolStream PE 240 (Dual)
EK Coolstream-ce-280 DUAL

This took me a while, because I did not know how long I would like o stay in my Node 804. I would have preferred one big radiator like a XE480 or similar. But I really like the Node 804 and want to have a loop in this case. And I think this will do just fine. the PE240 will go into the left chamber (front, where the Mobo sits) and the CE280 will go to the right chamber (top, over the PSU) and I hope these two radiators will dissipate enough heat to cool my i73770K (OC) and my GTX770 SLI. What do you think guys? (Due to the rule of Thumb 1x120 per head source it should be o.k, but I do wanna get my CPU overclock dialed in and might wanna go for a slight GPU OC as well)

GPU Blocks
EK-Thermosphere - Acetal
EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel
Akasa AK-VMC01-BK VGA RAM Heatsinks

This might get a little sketchy. I got 2x Asus GTX770 DCUII OC and according to the EK web configuration it's not supposed (well it's not listed) under compatible Blocks for this GPU. I disassembles one of the DCUII cooler from ne of the cards the other day and couldn't see why this would not fit. Full VGA Blocks weren't really an option either because they're all discontinued (plus the are quite expensive especially for two GPU's that aren't that new anymore)
So yea, I'll keep you updated, and we'll see if they fit or not wink.gif
Some Heatsinks for the ram and a nice SLI Terminal (which looks good and I save 2x Fittings) and everything will look dandy.

Fittings and Tubing etc
EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Elox Black
TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 11,1mm - Onyx Black (PFLEXA-758-BK)

EK-Ekoolant EVO CLEAR (premix 1L)
Nothing to special here, as I learned from the "Beginners Guide" it shouldn't really matter to much what diameter one chooses.
I ordered 2m of Tubing, I guess that's enough?!
Got myself 2x Ekoolant because why not.

Fans
EK-Vardar F4-120 (2200rpm)
EK-Cable Splitter 4-Fan PWM Extended

As for the Fans, I got 2x F4 120 Vardar mainly because of this review. The Splitter Cable will come in handy, this way I can hook all 4 Fans up my PWM controller on the mobo and dont risk to burn the capacitor.
You might have noticed that there are 2x140mm Fans missing. That is due to the recall of the F2, F3 and FF4 Vardar 140 series Fans. I hope they'll be back on sale soon because I wanna get two Vardar F3 140mm Fans.

As I already mentioned, I'll try to fit this setup into a Fractal Node 804 with SLI setup. I literally just ordered all this at EK and can't wait to get started. If you have any tips and/or feedback for me, I really appreciate. (And if you think I did some terrible choices, let me know)
For those interested in this build, I'll keep you posted with pictures and build log as soon as I receive the hardware.

Assembling


Cheers
TDEUS

Edited by TDEUS - 1/7/16 at 12:21am
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post #2 of 25
Thread Starter 
UPDATE
-I gave up on the Vardar F3 140mm fans and ordered 2x Noctua NF P14s redux fans on Amazon. So I'll run with these on my 280mm RAD. I guess they're not the best fans, but should be pressure optimized right. Has anyone got experience with those?
-realized that I didn't think of a proper draining setup, any advise on that?
-My package from EK is supposed to arrive today. I'm happy as a clam at high tide biggrin.gif

Hopefully I can post some first picture by tomorrow
Hurray
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post #3 of 25
a T-valve somewhere at the lowest point should do it

Note using multiport rads helps in these matters smile.gif
post #4 of 25
I'm looking into expanding my H220 X. (Too lazy to add all that up) How much was the total cost of that loop?
post #5 of 25
all I can provide you is the information I have on my own rigs, I have 3 water cooled units, up and running right now.

house temps are right around 28C for most of the year,

this is a earlier build I did it has 2 radiators in parallel with each other, it has 2 X 240mm radiators, it has a CPU and GPU in series with each other, but the CPU and GPU water blocks are older blocks, with a open high flow design, so the flow rate on this system is 6LPM.
https://imageshack.com/i/04alldone003j
https://imageshack.com/i/joalldone006j

the load temps on this build are.
CPU 41C
GPU 51C
this system is a stock system with no clocks on the hardware

I did this build as a serial/parallel build it also has a flow rate of 6LPM, it has 1 X 360mm monstra radiator a CPU and GPU in parallel with each other, it looks nice, a lot went into making it look nice.
https://imageshack.com/i/0vfi2nJ
https://imageshack.com/i/exwiFW7Vj
https://imageshack.com/i/ezPiu5JIj

the load temps on this build are
CPU 48C
GPU 53C
https://imageshack.com/i/npuzs7j
not as good on temps as the older build, but also there is not as much radiator space on this build.
this system is also a stock system no clocks on the hardware

and the final build is my gaming rig, it has 2 X 360mm radiators in parallel with each other, and a CPU and 2 X GPU's in parallel with each other on a 3-way parallel configuration, this system is clocked, the CPU is at 4Ghz, the GPU's are at 580Mhz, and the memory is at 1600Mhz.






the load temps of the hardware are
CPU - 54C
GPU 1 - 45C
GPU 2 - 45C

the water temps at load are
33-34C
the delta t of the system at load is 4C
Link to Gallery
this system has a total flow rate of 9.6LPM
have a look at the total post
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm
if this system was stock with no clocks on any of the hardware, the load temps would be.
CPU - 35C
GPU1 - 37C
GPU2 - 37C

I use a different method for draining, flushing, and cleaning my loops

http://imgur.com/a/EyrsM


notice that the 1/4 turn shut off valves are at the top of my loop because it does not matter where I put this setup on my loop it will work anywhere.

this is how it works first I attach fittings and tubing to the two outer 1/4 turn valves I have an empty bucket for the out flow and a full bucket of new liquid for the in flow of my loop, then I turn the 1/4 turn valve in the center to the off position or closed position, and I open the two outer valves. then I let the pump do the rest, it will flush out all of the old liquid, while at the same time filling it with new.

well that is how I do it anyway, I hope this gives you some new ideas for your loop.
so I hope this helps with your rig, let me know please.
post #6 of 25
Thread Starter 
UPDATE
It was an exhausting day, but I loved every moment of it. Because today was assembly day biggrin.gif
I guide you trough my process. I tooke some pictures (could have done better but I was so excited...)

Got my delivery yesterday, did not have too much time to check te content.




The Only Thing I did was that I checked if the Thermospher GPU blocks would fit (because my GPU was not listed on the EK shop page)
I just had to change to the smaller standoffs caus the preinstalled ones were a tiny bit too high. But the Thermospher does fit the ASUS GTX770 DCUII OC 2GB.
Since these are not full Blocks and do not cover the memory I went with some heatsinks one just glues to the modules. They even fit on the three modules that are underneath the thermospher. (awesome)


This was all I checked yesterday because I haven't had more time.

Today a Week after ordering my loop I started assembling.
I started with the test fits, an oh my, I realised a couple of thinks.
-Where am I supposes to put the pump. Ohh Dear,
-My 240mm RAD did not fit at the front of the left chamber. Bummer. so I had to move that to the Top. Looks O.k, covers some parts of the mobo (had to switch some of my Ram modules for lower ones)


After I decided where I'm gonna put everything I started by assembling the second GPU so I could connect them with my Paralell Terminal, and I don't know if those Thermospher's in conjunction with the Terminal are supposed to be that close (actually touching the PCH on the GPU's), or if I'm just really lucky with my cards. Because for a moment during assembly I thought I hit a wall an that Terminal wasn't going to fit.(which might have been the reason why my cards aren't listed on the product page) It was quite a relif when I saw this (which is actually a perfect fit.)


I then setup the CPU block which was fairly easy, switched to the J2 Jet (EK recommendation for 115X CPU's)
I've installed a couple of CPU coolers over the years so this was nothing new for my (unlike the GPU block mounting, which was somehow scary weirdsmiley.gif)
I had to rotate the block 180° later (logo upside down) because I prefered the tubing this way.


Following to the "Beginners Guide", it was time to shake it. And by that they mean, the rads. I started with the 280mm "Big Boy", poured hot-ish water inside the rad and gave it a good shake. The first time I emptied the water I got this

Pretty dirty for a new rad, I guess thats why it is recommanded in the Beginners Guide. (It's a pretty old guide and I was actually hoping that the rads would be cleaner nowdays)
After some more washes I cleaned out the water with some distilled water and moved on to the next rad, the 240 PE.
This one was much cleaner. Almost nothing after the first wash, neat
I left them sit to get dry and moved on to get some more tubing done.


Putting the tubing on the fittings and cutting the tube to the right size takes some get used to. I followed the advises the Beginners Guide gave my and started big (one can always cut the tube shorter)
Now to get back to the pump, I still did not exactly know where I should put it.

Eventually I decided that it is going behind my PSU. It's going to be difficult to fit it there and I need to build somekind of a mount. (which I havent done yet, more about that later)
Tubing to the pump is a little more excessive, because this way I can take the pump out of the system and easiely fill it up.
Filling the system was done in a minute. I could poor water into the system while the pump was running. I kept up with the pump during the fill so the pump never ran dry and I never had to switch off the PSU (2nd PSU not on the image)

You might have noticed that there are no 140mm fans mounted on my 280 rad. I'll get them tomorrw. (Hung the rad to get a proximate for the tubing lenght)

Time for the leak test.


It passed, I let it run for about 2-3 hours. (good enough for me.) YEAAA
After that I did some theaks to my Case. I removed some of the plastik blades on the top cover to get a better airflow going


Thats all I could do today. It was a lot of work and it is far from done. (I'm going to Post beaty shots of the system when it is "finished")
The Pump issue...
I can run my system (currently writing this on the machine.) but, the pump is just "lying" in the system, it is not held by anything but a big mess of wires. (Ohh yea cable management rolleyes.gif) I have to get a piece of metal or something from the hardware store to build myself a mount. The pump is going to fir behind the PSU. And with the right cable management it's even going to look good.
On another note, PWM, I thought evey fan header on my mobo had this feature, but it's just the CPU header. frown.gif
So I have to come up with a soulution for that, I might go and solder the Pump PWM and the one of my "four way Fan splitter" together an put them both into the CPU FAN header (which means I have to unistall the Top 240 rad for mobo access madsmiley.png)

All in all, I see light on the horizon. and eventough I'm courrently on just one Fan (don't ask) I got awesome temps already. (GPU's hit a max of 54° on light gaming; Starcraft 2)

So by now, I guess I can say that I'm part of the Watercooling Family, what do you think guys.
Cheers
TDeus
Edited by TDEUS - 1/6/16 at 1:24am
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post #7 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

a T-valve somewhere at the lowest point should do it

Note using multiport rads helps in these matters smile.gif

Cheers, I'll have to get something like that. do you by any chance know where one might get those in Europe. I looked at EK and they seem not to have anything alike in there supply.
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post #8 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jawws View Post

I'm looking into expanding my H220 X. (Too lazy to add all that up) How much was the total cost of that loop?

About 500€ so far wink.gif
Are you looking for a custom loop or something more userfriendly. You've probably heard about the EK-XLC Predator 360 (Ohh yea, I'm all EK thumb.gif)
What I can tell you from my newly aquired experience, building a custom loop is very rewarding, I can just recommand it, if you into it of course (And you seem to be, since you are reading this forum)
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post #9 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

all I can provide you is the information I have on my own rigs, I have 3 water cooled units, up and running right now.

house temps are right around 28C for most of the year,

this is a earlier build I did it has 2 radiators in parallel with each other, it has 2 X 240mm radiators, it has a CPU and GPU in series with each other, but the CPU and GPU water blocks are older blocks, with a open high flow design, so the flow rate on this system is 6LPM.
https://imageshack.com/i/04alldone003j
https://imageshack.com/i/joalldone006j

the load temps on this build are.
CPU 41C
GPU 51C
this system is a stock system with no clocks on the hardware

I did this build as a serial/parallel build it also has a flow rate of 6LPM, it has 1 X 360mm monstra radiator a CPU and GPU in parallel with each other, it looks nice, a lot went into making it look nice.
https://imageshack.com/i/0vfi2nJ
https://imageshack.com/i/exwiFW7Vj
https://imageshack.com/i/ezPiu5JIj

the load temps on this build are
CPU 48C
GPU 53C
https://imageshack.com/i/npuzs7j
not as good on temps as the older build, but also there is not as much radiator space on this build.
this system is also a stock system no clocks on the hardware
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
and the final build is my gaming rig, it has 2 X 360mm radiators in parallel with each other, and a CPU and 2 X GPU's in parallel with each other on a 3-way parallel configuration, this system is clocked, the CPU is at 4Ghz, the GPU's are at 580Mhz, and the memory is at 1600Mhz.






the load temps of the hardware are
CPU - 54C
GPU 1 - 45C
GPU 2 - 45C

the water temps at load are
33-34C
the delta t of the system at load is 4C
Link to Gallery
this system has a total flow rate of 9.6LPM
have a look at the total post
http://www.overclock.net/t/1573189/serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm
if this system was stock with no clocks on any of the hardware, the load temps would be.
CPU - 35C
GPU1 - 37C
GPU2 - 37C

I use a different method for draining, flushing, and cleaning my loops

http://imgur.com/a/EyrsM


notice that the 1/4 turn shut off valves are at the top of my loop because it does not matter where I put this setup on my loop it will work anywhere.

this is how it works first I attach fittings and tubing to the two outer 1/4 turn valves I have an empty bucket for the out flow and a full bucket of new liquid for the in flow of my loop, then I turn the 1/4 turn valve in the center to the off position or closed position, and I open the two outer valves. then I let the pump do the rest, it will flush out all of the old liquid, while at the same time filling it with new.

well that is how I do it anyway, I hope this gives you some new ideas for your loop.
so I hope this helps with your rig, let me know please.

Thanks, nice feedback, you seem to know what you're doing.
I see you really like to put your rad in paralell, is there a major advantage over serial?
Do you have flow and temperature sensors in all of your builds?
Interceptor
(29 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770K Asus P8Z77-M Pro  Asus GTX 770 SLI Asus GTX 770 SLI 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
crucial ddr 3 120gb SSD  2TB WD Red  Samsung Pro 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
2tb WB Black 1 TB Seagate barracuda EK Supremacy EVO EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK CoolStream 280CE EK CoolStream 240PE EK Thermosphere EK Vardar F4 120 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120 Noctua NF-P14s Redux 140 Windows 10 OSX 10.8 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus PB278Q Samsung 23" TN shit  CM Storm Quickfire TK  Be Quiet 1000W Dark Power 11 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Node 804 Logitech G502 Steelseries Q+ Onboard  
Audio
Steelseries Syberia V2 Headset 
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Interceptor
(29 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 3770K Asus P8Z77-M Pro  Asus GTX 770 SLI Asus GTX 770 SLI 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
crucial ddr 3 120gb SSD  2TB WD Red  Samsung Pro 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
2tb WB Black 1 TB Seagate barracuda EK Supremacy EVO EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK CoolStream 280CE EK CoolStream 240PE EK Thermosphere EK Vardar F4 120 
CoolingCoolingOSOS
BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 120 Noctua NF-P14s Redux 140 Windows 10 OSX 10.8 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus PB278Q Samsung 23" TN shit  CM Storm Quickfire TK  Be Quiet 1000W Dark Power 11 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Fractal Design Node 804 Logitech G502 Steelseries Q+ Onboard  
Audio
Steelseries Syberia V2 Headset 
  hide details  
Reply
post #10 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDEUS View Post

About 500€ so far wink.gif
Are you looking for a custom loop or something more userfriendly. You've probably heard about the EK-XLC Predator 360 (Ohh yea, I'm all EK thumb.gif)
What I can tell you from my newly aquired experience, building a custom loop is very rewarding, I can just recommand it, if you into it of course (And you seem to be, since you are reading this forum)

I want to eventually have a full custom loop, but atm just getting ideas of what I can do. I recently dropped a good chunk of change upgrading just about everything in my computer, so I'm a bit broke. The H220 X like the Predator is fully modular in terms of customization. As soon as I can afford it I will be looking into other parts. Thanks for the info:)
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