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over heating 6700K - Page 2

post #11 of 46
Thread Starter 
OMG you're so helpful thx a lot thumb.gif
other idea has occurred to me first tomorrow i will buy one case fan and install behind case then remove HSF fan(1600rpm) and add to front case beside stock fan (800rpm) then buy Deepcool Gammaxx 400 or Coolermaster 212X or evo (4pip HSF) even Noctua NH-U12S is fit in my case
with this config can i OC little bit cpu to 4.4Ghz?! or just resolve my heat issue?!
what your think?!
And what rpm should i consider for case fan ?!!
this is pretty expensive but i cant find better than this in my city
http://www.corsair.com/en/air-series-sp120-pwm-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-fan-twin-pack 38$
or i can buy deepcool 120mm 1300rpm 5$
or this http://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=4&lv1=32&no=143 10$

My PC Parts Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Cpu: Core i7 6700K
HSF: Deepcool Gammaxx 300
MB: Gigabyte Z170X-UD3
Ram: 2x8GB Gskill Ripjaws DDR4 2800Mhz CL16
SSD: Samasung 850EVO 250GB
HDD: 1xWD Black 1TB & 2XWD Green 3TB
VGA: Msi 970 Gaming 4G
Pcie_x1: TBS 6922 DVB-S2
PSU: Evga 750W G2
Case:Coolermaster Silencio 452

Edited by hichkas - 10/4/15 at 3:30pm
post #12 of 46
I don't recommend buying anything except the new fan for the front intake slot ATM. with the additional cool intake air volume, you may be satisfied with the overall performance. eventually you will want to possibly consider an upgrade to your silencio 452. the case wasn't really meant for gaming builds and the limitations for cooling on the case will hinder your future builds. ideal situation is to see if anyone you know would want to buy the silencio from you and you can maybe get a case that allows for better cooling options (170mm tall HSF instead of 158mm tall)

as far as fitting. technically speaking the gammaxx400 is listed as 162mm tall and the hyper212 is listed at 159mm tall... if you were to go by coolermasters specifications, neither of those coolers will fit.

however, here is a pic by overclock3d.net that shows a nzxt havik 120(160mm tall cooler) installed with practically no room to spare...

so it's safe to say the max height for cooler is 160mm. 162mm is a risk of not being able to fit inside. with that pic, i would say the hyper212 is a safe bet but the gammaxx400 is a question mark. however, there are other higher performing coolers that fits under that 160mm height limit including the legendary NH-D14 (still considered one of the best coolers on the market especially when height constraints is in place) which is only 158mm tall. whether you are able to buy NH-D14 in your country is not something i can answer, but it would be worth it to buy a cooler like the NH-D14 that has stood the test of time. even today it's considered one of the top 3 coolers on the market below 160mm tall. if you are unable to get noctua coolers, i'm sure there are thermalright coolers that perform close to a NH-D14 and still fits under 160mm tall. personally i prefer noctua cooler because of their mounting kit guarantee. if intel/AMD ever come out with a new socket that requires a different mounting bracket, noctua will supply the mounting bracket free of charge. you simply need to provide proof of ownership of a noctua cooler and that you have the motherboard that requires the new socket. (you can read this info from noctua's website.)

so... to sum things up. buy a front intake fan so both front intake slots are populated. it would be best if you get a high quality fan since you should be able to use a good fan for a long time.

see if you are able to live with the temps from the added intake fan. if yes. then hold off on buying something and save up for a real upgrade. i would prioritize getting something like a NH-D14 over a new case. technically, your case it "not that bad" if you have the proper airflow and the right cooler inside. with sufficient cool air intake and a NH-D14 it's likely you will see dramatic decrease in CPU temps.

eventually, you may consider a new case, but you wouldn't have to worry about it within the usable lifetime of your 6700K if you have a strong cooler like the NH-D14 with enough cool air intake.
post #13 of 46
Thread Starter 
in noctua website NH-D14 height is 160mm http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=34&lng=en&set=1
and i measured my case height from cpu to edge of door exact 158mm
so i am not sure the legendary NH-D14 is fit to my case
but NH-U12S with 158mm is fit http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=63&lng=en&set=1
if i pay for decent fan and HSF it must be give me a more than resolve heat issue.like OC cpu
otherwise best way is sell my case and buy something with bigger space am i right ?!!
but really i love face design of my caseو Simple and gentle , and this is time to learn do not get in love base on face ..inside always Is more important than outside.(philosophy vision rolleyes.gif)
Edited by hichkas - 10/4/15 at 7:03pm
post #14 of 46
just buy a good 140mm fan first like psyclum said. that is the only thing that is necessary to buy right now. no point having an awesome heatsink if you don't have any airflow through the case to keep the internal case temp down. If adding that extra good quality fan helps your temperatures, buy a second and maybe third fan to match it and get rid of the stock coolermaster fans. that should significanty reduce your case temps. if your cpu is still too hot at that point then buy a better heatsink like the U12s or NH-D14 like psyclum said.

as his front intake is so restricted by the door and filters etc, would a high static pressure fan or a high airflow fan achieve better results? seems to be some considerable restriction in the intake and also pushing through the HDD's so perhaps some new high static pressure fans like the EK vardar F1 140 1150rpm would be suitable, and they have a reasonable price too and should still be virtually silent.
Edited by LiamG6 - 10/4/15 at 8:53pm
post #15 of 46
Cooler Master say Silencio 452 has CPU cooler height: 158mm. As phyclum said 160mm will fit. I agree with phyclum, a better case would solve many problems. I'm only half awake and not thinking clearly. Let me think on it and post up a little later.
post #16 of 46
basically a HSF and case are both considered LONG term investments in building computers. a well designed case, like a high quality heatsink will be in use for well over a decade while providing top of the line performance during its service life. therefor it's generally recommended that you buy top of the line units for those components since they do not become obsolete like your CPU, GPU, mobo, RAM, HDD, etc... they are the components that you carry from build to build until it suffers serious abuse like stripped screw threads, broken plastic components, obsolete connectors (firewire vs USB2 vs USB3 vs USB-C of the near future) or "better" technology becomes the market standard (80mm fans of a decade ago vs 120/140mm fans of today). heatsinks only need to be replace if you feel the newer technology on he market significantly improves upon your needs. like going from a 92mm heatsink to a 120mm/140mm heatsink, or going from a 3 pipe heatsink to a 6 or 8 pipe heatsink.

what you eventually decide on can be simplified by looking at historic data. within the last decade, PC CPU has not exceeded 160W TDP and GPU has not exceeded "300w" TDP (per specification, but in reality some cards approach 400w TDP) so there is a "fixed" amount of heat you need to deal with if you stay within the realms of "safe overclocking" the top of the line products on the market caters to that limit and try to provide the quietest products that can accomplish that goal. what it comes down to is if you buy the best now, it's unlikely that it will become obsolete in 10 years since both case design and HSF design has reached a level a maturity that the thermal load they need to deal with will not exceed the current capability.

can it change in 10 years? absolutely. once the diamond / graphene chips makes its way to the consumer market we may see a spike in temps. but i doubt seriously that the overall wattage needed to be cooled will increase significantly even if you are running a stock clock of 12GHz diamond chip 10 years from now. sure the CPU might show 300 to 400C, but that's the nature of those carbon chips biggrin.gif they are designed to have a safe temp of maybe 800C to 1000C biggrin.gif but considering how small the chip is, i'm sure it won't have a TDP of greater then 120w just like today biggrin.gif
post #17 of 46
Thread Starter 
god. you guys really helpful . i am speechless and read all your command over and over again.
4 hour later go to buy 2xfan pwm 140mm 1500rpm .install one of fan in top place of front case. The second one install on back of case. and set them in bios work on high speed
as soon as possible report back
cheers cheers.gif
post #18 of 46
post #19 of 46
Originally Posted by hichkas View Post

god. you guys really helpful . i am speechless and read all your command over and over again.
4 hour later go to buy 2xfan pwm 140mm 1500rpm .install one of fan in top place of front case. The second one install on back of case. and set them in bios work on high speed
as soon as possible report back
cheers cheers.gif

i would start with just buying 1 fan.

but if they only sell them in pair then i would put both on the front and remove the stock front intake fan since it's only 800RPM so it wont pull too much air to make much temp difference. with 2 x 1500RPM fans in the front intake side you shouldn't have too much problems overcoming the resistance posed by the intake fan filter. leaving the 800RPM fan on the rear exhaust is plenty as long as you leave a few of the expansion slot covers off below the GPU. the positive pressure generated by the 2 strong intake fans should deliver enough airflow to offset a good amount of the heat dumped into the case by the GPU.

after you've added the intake fans. test out your temps under load and see what kind of improvement you get.
post #20 of 46
Originally Posted by hichkas View Post

god. you guys really helpful . i am speechless and read all your command over and over again.
4 hour later go to buy 2xfan pwm 140mm 1500rpm .install one of fan in top place of front case. The second one install on back of case. and set them in bios work on high speed
as soon as possible report back
cheers cheers.gif
Flattery will get you nowhere .. make that somewhere. wink.gif

First let's work on case airflow. If you can get a cheap indoor / outdoor digital thermometer setup like I use (Ways to Better
  • Cooling" posts 2 & 5) to see what the air temp is going into CPU and GPU coolers would be helpful.
  • I agree, additional / better intake fan/s will hep a lot.
  • The Thermalright TY-14x series fans are very good .. and being PWM makes it easy to control them with CPU &/or GPU PWM signals (posts 4 & 16).. Only problem is they are 152x141mm with 105mm (120mm fan) mounting holes. There are a couple of ways to make them work; posts 23 & 36.

CPU cooler:
The 212 is not bad, but Macho 120 and TRUE Spirit 120 are a few degrees better.

As others have said
  • Improve case airflow with better fans
  • Improve case airflow with better venting
  • If that doesn't work, get case with better airflow & CPU clearance as a last resort

Case fans:
  • We want fans that will move a good amount of air through the resistance created by front door, grill filter, hdd cage, etc.
  • This means fans that have higher pressure ratings, because that is what P-Q curve show (post 11 in "Ways to Better Cooling")..
  • When running high loads open the front door. This will allow more airflow to front vents.
  • Thermalright TY-14x series fans are very good at this. Problem is they are 152x141mm with 105 (120mm fan) mounting holes. They are usually lower priced than similar fans .. and if you can square (post 36) and possible make 105-124.5 mount adapter (post 23) or mount with zipties.
  • Added advantage is PWM case fans because they can be controlled with PWM signal from CPU &/or GPU PWM fan headers (post 4 & 15).

Case venting:
  • Open door when system is working hard
  • Remove PCIe slot covers allows airflow from front to back past GPU .. both removing heated GPU exhaust andsupplying more cool air to to it and at same time keeping heated exhaust from pre-heating cool air going to CPU cooler.
  • Remove I /O cover to improve airlfow over mobo components .. especially between CPU and back of case
  • Remove grills improve airflow and lowers noise dramatically. Usually no exhaust fan is needed when grills are removed.

I think with above or similar fans and mods your case will work very well.
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