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Whats the best way to setup drainage in the loop?

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
What parts do i need ?


so i can drain and flush it out with ease. thumb.gif
post #2 of 13
Two Tees with no-leak quick disconnects, valve, some tubing with the other ends of the quick disconnects, a bucket and some water.



You can even skip the bucket and hook the tubing to the faucet on a sink.
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post #3 of 13
I use a different method for draining, flushing, and cleaning my loops

http://imgur.com/a/EyrsM


notice that the 1/4 turn shut off valves are at the top of my loop because it does not matter where I put this setup on my loop it will work anywhere.

this is how it works first I attach fittings and tubing to the two outer 1/4 turn valves I have an empty bucket for the out flow and a full bucket of new liquid for the in flow of my loop, then I turn the 1/4 turn valve in the center to the off position or closed position, and I open the two outer valves. then I let the pump do the rest, it will flush out all of the old liquid, while at the same time filling it with new.

well that is how I do it anyway, I hope this gives you some new ideas for your loop.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 10/7/15 at 8:06am
post #4 of 13
@billbartuska
You can even skip the bucket and hook the tubing to the faucet on a sink.

have you done this to your loop?
you realize how dirty tap water is right?
this is a really bad idea IMO
post #5 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

@billbartuska
You can even skip the bucket and hook the tubing to the faucet on a sink.

have you done this to your loop?
you realize how dirty tap water is right?
this is a really bad idea IMO

Tap water has a number of very strict government regulations and standards it has to meet before being plumbed into a residence, these regulations are far stricter than the [usually nonexistant] ones governing and validating the kinds of water going into just about any plastic container sold at retail stores. Tap water is an order of magnitudes cleaner overall than store bought water, though specific application-critical specialty water, like deionized, should always be purely just that.

Furthermore, that being said, I'd be less concerned about what's in the tap water going into a custom loop than I am about the actual water pressure coming out of the faucet. If not carefully monitored, and slowly administered, water pressure from the tap could easily blow out every single o-ring & seal in even the most complex of loops. Most watercooling gear for PC's with G1/4 threading is only capable of handling 10-15, maybe 20 psi. Tap water leaves the faucet in excess of 50-70psi at full blast.
Edited by zvonkorp - 10/7/15 at 8:46am
post #6 of 13
I just simply put a drain valve with T fitting at the lowest possible point in the loop. I made the mistake of not including a fill port on my loop so it is a little more difficult to fill. if you include a fill port, then a drain port you should be gold. Although I ran into an issue of the water going straight through the shortest run where i had to disconnect and plug the lines to get the water to flow through the longer run.
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
I think this is what i will do. thankyou thumb.gif
post #8 of 13
Never run tap water in your loop. Tap water has additives that will leave deposits. Distilled water with a biocide is usually the recommended coolant.
 
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post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Never run tap water in your loop. Tap water has additives that will leave deposits. Distilled water with a biocide is usually the recommended coolant.


No tapwater for regular use no... but for the first "flush & shake" , rad-dance sessions before plumbing it all completely together.. then yes, then Tap is ok, as long as you flush with distilled after smile.gif

Even later on , when its that time of year to drain/clean/flush, then tap can be used, as long as you also drain/flush with distilled after.

The only thing with tap is.. as mention above... the PSI can kill your components/o-rings...
Depending on country/area/city regulations, PSI for tap should not exceed 30 PSI, but 30 PSI is way too much for your average loop.

Far better off to use a compressor maxed at 8-9 PSI to airblow the loop dry. Unless you can find a pump + regulator that you can set at fixed PSI (head) to flush the loop.

But all in all, the "elbow grease" method always works smile.gif
post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by masychefx2 View Post

What parts do i need ?
so i can drain and flush it out with ease. thumb.gif

Simple method if you have a bottom radiator with multiple ports(alphacool), just attach an extension to the bottom port so it goes through the bottom of your case and slap a plug on the end. When you need to drain the loop just do it like you would the oil in your car. Fillport is an extra port on the top of the res.

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