Overclock.net banner

It's time for me to specialize my cooling setup.

442 views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  RnRollie 
#1 ·
Lets review everything.

My case is a Thermaltake core X9, Love it.
I have a 5930k that can clock to 5.2ghz but i can't keep it cold enough
I currently use liquid cooling
I live in the australian outback and heat is a huge issue even with liquid cooling, I essentially am only passing hot air through the radiators unless i turn the big aircon on, And then that has to fight with my system dumping a ton of heat.

I want to go into sub ambient and even sub zero 24/7 area on both Gpu's and Cpu's but i get the feeling it's easier to start off with cpu's first so.

Where do i start?
 
#2 ·
Condensation is the big killer with below ambient or sub-zero cooling methods in Australia. Have a gander at this thread for some great information about how to build a sub-zero liquid chill box. http://www.overclock.net/t/1533164/the-24-7-sub-zero-liquid-chillbox-club/0_100

The basics of it is you need to build a sealed and well insulated box with a clear perspex lid, a few layers of perspex or glass or a combo of the two is ideal, with some sort of gasket or o-ring to seal it to the chillbox as it needs to be airtight. You place your PC components inside that and this zone gets chilled to about -20 or even -30c. To achieve that you convert a normal window type air conditioner into a chiller, basically rip off the fan on the evaporator, drop the evaporator into a big insulated reservoir, an esky is a good start, use distilled water and methanol as your coolant to stop it freezing. you have to seal the reservoir up pretty good too and it needs to be filled with you coolant mix so it covers the evaporator. so you pump this mix into your chillbox, first component in the loop inside the chillbox is a 360rad with a few fans on it, this chills the air inside the chillbox to prevent condensation, this forms a vacuum inside the chillbox which is why it has to be sealed and airtight, then the loop can liquid cool your CPU and GPUs as normal, except now they are being fed chilled liquid at about -20 to -30c, from there return it to your res, now its important that the return to the res and the inlet to the pump are on opposite sides of the evaporator so that the coolant flows through the evap and gets chilled as much as possible before being pumped into the chillbox again. This is all pretty basic info and there is much much more info in that thread I linked, orthello is Kiwi and I'm sure he'd love to get another member into the chillbox club. As you already have liquid cooling you're a good candidate as you just need to pick up an old window aircon, orthello probably has good tips on which model is most suitable so that you don't have to bend the copper piping at all, its best to avoid that so that you don;t damage the unit and makes it easier to seal all the piping into the res. also have to make sure all your cables are run into the chillbox at the start and sealed in so that you don't have to add more cables etc later. There are many pitfalls to this type of cooling but honestly I think it is the most appropriate form of 24/7 sub zero cooling you can possibly do, and the entry costs aren't ridiculously high.

Have a read of that thread, and good luck. Summer is coming so I'm off on an adventure of my own with Thermoelectric cooling on a tiny little overclockable Haswell Pentium G3258 dual core and trying to get it sub-zero too, but its only a 53w TDP chip so my mission is much easier than cooling your beast
tongue.gif
 
#3 ·
If you're in the dry part of the outback, you can also try evaporative (swamp/volenti/bong) cooling.
Or use evap-cooling as a PRE-cooler to keep the hot side of TECs under control while going for a TEC based chill-box for your main system.

Because in dry, arid climates, evaporative cooling is extremely powerful and cheap.. much cheaper as AirCo. Unless water is much more expensive as electricity or as petrol where you are
smile.gif


And it all depends on where you are... ... because when you say Outback... a LOT of people can't understand you are talking about a area which is about as large as WHOLE of USA
smile.gif


Unless you are referring to the "Red Center".. or if you substitute "outback" for suburbs
smile.gif


If you are in the Northen (sub)tropical parts, then humidity is probably too high for Evaporative cooling, but if you are in/near the dry desert areas, then evap works fantastically.

MAP of the outback:

http://www.outback-australia-travel-secrets.com/australian-outback-map.html

therefore MAP of the SIZE of the Outback vs the USA
smile.gif

 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top