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Came into more money than expected...should I change or add anything before taking this dive? - Page 3

post #21 of 33
Apevia is not known for quality. ...just a heads up.....take heed or not...your choice
post #22 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maltamonk View Post

Apevia is not known for quality. ...just a heads up.....take heed or not...your choice

apevia?
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post #23 of 33
the case fans you link are Apevia brand...might as well get Rosewill or coolermaster sickle flows....

There's a member here on OCN that specializes in fans and coolers....cant think of their name atm..but...you can't trust the cfm on fans as each manufacturer uses their own system to measure it. It's better to use user reviews for sure.
Edited by maltamonk - 10/15/15 at 8:40pm
post #24 of 33
Before you jump on SLI, remember that some games work, some don't.
Even the ones that work really well with SLI still have microstutter. Crossfire is also cantankerous.

It seems like if you go gsync, the smoothness would be lost to microstutter.

And cards with a $50 CLC strapped to it will outlive the CLC.
There is no reason a GPU shouldn't live 5+ years. I just don't see how a CLC could live that long.

The G1 Gaming is one of the better cards for Maxwell.
They come with a better BIOS than most (if overclocking is your thing)

I'd only get a second card if you aren't happy with the performance. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by maltamonk View Post

the case fans you link are Apevia brand...might as well get Rosewill or coolermaster sickle flows....

There's a member here on OCN that specializes in fans and coolers....cant think of their name atm..but...you can't trust the cfm on fans as each manufacturer uses their own system to measure it. It's better to use user reviews for sure.

@doyll thumb.gif

Look for fans with good static pressure (even if it's just a case fan, you need static pressure to push through filters or just any impedance).
Also, sleeve and rifle bearings are what you want to avoid.
2 Ball and SSO/fluid dynamic are some of the better bearings.
Edited by white owl - 10/15/15 at 8:57pm
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post #25 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by white owl View Post

Before you jump on SLI, remember that some games work, some don't.
Even the ones that work really well with SLI still have microstutter. Crossfire is also cantankerous.

It seems like if you go gsync, the smoothness would be lost to microstutter.

And cards with a $50 CLC strapped to it will outlive the CLC.
There is no reason a GPU shouldn't live 5+ years. I just don't see how a CLC could live that long.

The G1 Gaming is one of the better cards for Maxwell.
They come with a better BIOS than most (if overclocking is your thing)

I'd only get a second card if you aren't happy with the performance. thumb.gif
@doyll thumb.gif

Look for fans with good static pressure (even if it's just a case fan, you need static pressure to push through filters or just any impedance).
Also, sleeve and rifle bearings are what you want to avoid.
2 Ball and SSO/fluid dynamic are some of the better bearings.

You have a good point on the GPU thing, I didn't think about compatibility with games. Maybe I'll just change up my fans for something better and roll with the build...
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post #26 of 33
Thread Starter 
Going with these Cougars http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA25V31D8488

Maybe just going to go ahead and step up the ram to 16gigs as well, would just getting two of the original Ares I have linked be my best bet?
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post #27 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by reubdy View Post

Going with these Cougars http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA25V31D8488

Maybe just going to go ahead and step up the ram to 16gigs as well, would just getting two of the original Ares I have linked be my best bet?
Try to get a matching kit.
2 kits aren't guaranteed to work together.
I've been eyeballing this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226406

1600Mhz, 9-9-9-24, and the 1.35v input voltage leaves some room if you want to OC that stuff.
Basically any 16gb kit would work. Or 8gb...your call.
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post #28 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by white owl View Post

Try to get a matching kit.
2 kits aren't guaranteed to work together.
I've been eyeballing this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226406

1600Mhz, 9-9-9-24, and the 1.35v input voltage leaves some room if you want to OC that stuff.
Basically any 16gb kit would work. Or 8gb...your call.


Wonder if there would be any compatibility issues with my mobo?
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post #29 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by reubdy View Post

Wonder if there would be any compatibility issues with my mobo?
Can't see why it wouldn't be compatible.
I've never used ram from my mobo's "approved ram" list. redface.gif
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post #30 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by drazah View Post

Im not saying the Haswell is better than the Skylake by any means, Im just saying, since he will mainly be gaiming he might be better off just saving the extra $200 for that upgrade and put it towards his next 980 Ti.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reubdy View Post

I would rather save that, if it's not needed.
I was seeing a ~$40-50 difference on equal motherboards + a few on memory; a fraction of a 2k build. A lesser motherboard could account for the difference.

Not needed, but the more I read, something like p4inkill3r's Skylake build (but with a G1 GPU and, if possible, 16gb of fast DDR4) looks well worth it, if only for the new features. I'd have a look (here is as good a place as any) and see what conclusion you draw.
My 2cents.gif
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CM Storm Quickfire Pro (Cherry MX Reds) Seasonic SS-850HT Fractal Define Design R3 Corsair M95 
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Corsair MM400 Onboard (Realtek) + Philips Home Theatre System... Lots of case fans and Aerocool fan controller Logitech M318 
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