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Hailea HC-1000A/B Chiller questions.

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Greetings all.

So I generally have a lot of time to theorize possible builds and cooling solutions for a new PC build whilst im at work (its a mundane and repetitive job lol).

Among idea's for sub zero direct phase change, sub zero vacuum box, and a Air Conditioned Rad box, there is also the idea of simply chilling the water 'properly' with a consumer grade water chiller.
It would likely be cooling CPU + 2 GPU's all OC'ed, and maybe the motherboard if it comes with that option inbuilt.

The Hailea HC-1000A or B seems like the best fit with its alleged 1650w of cooling capacity, however there are some issues I foresee.

Top of that list is of course condensation.
As I write this I have checked my rooms relative humidity over the last 24 hours and temp (of which I generally know what temps are through out the year)
20-26c winter to summer. Current Humidity ranges between 52-58%. If humidity stays at those levels through out the year then the Dew point through out the year would be 10c -17c, and im sure it can go higher or lower as I've only measured humidity over the last 24 hours.
Whilst I could simply work with those figures, I thought of a better way of reducing dew point, best way being reducing ambient temperature.

If I install a Rad in the front of my case as Intake and have the chilled water go through that first, it would cool the internal case air temperature, and hopefully only raise the water temperature a small amount. I can change the target water temp on the chiller to compensate for the increase in temp caused by the rad.
Pulling figures completely out my *** here, but hopefully something along the lines of 7c chilled water target, after rad temp 12c, internal case temp to outer ambient temp delta of 5c. So if ambient is 22c, inside case would hopefully be around 17c making the Dew point at 55% humidity be 8c.
Question : Would the above work ?

2nd issue
I would, if I went through with this, put the Chiller in my loft space above my room. now being at such a high point would help bleeding the system immensely but I expect a powerful pump would be required not only due to elevation but also distance/length of the loop.
Question: Pump recommendations ? (remembering I plan on having a rad in the loop so pressure cant be to high)

3rd Issue in relation to the above.
Having the Chiller in the loft sounds all well and good, but in the summer it can get VERY hot up there, how much of an issue would this be for the Chiller ? I cant find a recommended or maximum ambient temperature for the unit.

Ok one final question in relation to water cooling parts in general.
Does anyone know of a fitting (or other means) that can join soft tubing to hard line tubing ? As im going to be using soft tubing going from what ever external cooling solution I use, to my PC of which I would like to go hard line tubing inside.

Im in no rush to get answers, as I wont be upgrading/replacing my rig until a good VDU finally comes out (2160p 21:9 OLED 42-46" G/Free-Sync) as im currently using a Plasma, and I refuse to touch LCD's (TN,VA, or IPS) as they suck when it comes to black levels, contrast, pixel response, and viewing angles Vs CRT, Plasma, and OLED.

Cheers smile.gif
Edited by SolarNova - 10/16/15 at 5:29am
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post #2 of 17
Chilled Rad in front of the case:
I'd rethink that one. You're confusing relative humidity (% of water in the air) with humidity (grains - weight - of water in the air).
Changing the temperature does not change the humidity (weight of water in the air), and hence, does not change the dew point.

WCing loops are closed systems. Gravity has no effect on flow rate. What you loose to gravity on the way up, you gain back again on the way down. You only have to compensate for the flow resistance of the length of the tubing and the fittings.
You may want to consider insulating the run to the chiller to prevent heat losses there.

You may not only exceed the chiller's max ambient temp, but also raise the temperature of the water it outputs. The warmer the ambient air at the chiller the warmer the water, until, finally, it won't supply cool enough water. Look at it this way: The chiller will reduce the water temp 25°c (?) below the ambient air temp. As ambient goes up so does the water temp.

Soft Tubing connects to hard tubing quit easily with hose clamps.
 
 
Edited by billbartuska - 10/16/15 at 7:04am
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post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
The point of the Rad in the front isn't to change humidity. Humidity will be the same.
Its to change air temp inside the case.

The Rad will be cooled by the chilled water, the air going through the rad will cool.
Thus with lower air temp, the Dew point is also lower.

I would of course insulate the long tube runs form chiller to PC.

Any pump recommendations ?

ok simple hose clamps, thought there might be a fitting of sorts available. Nvm hose clamps will do.
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post #4 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by SolarNova View Post

The Rad will be cooled by the chilled water, the air going through the rad will cool.
Thus with lower air temp, the Dew point is also lower..

Oh boy, better think that one through again!

If lowering the air temp did reduce the dew point then why would you have to cool the air in the first place? The air around the cold components would be cooled to the temp of the cold water and thus have it's dew point reduced - thus the air would never get to it's dew point and there would never be any condensation - ever - anywhere in the galaxy

You're missing the fact that as you lower the temperature you raise the relative humidity - eventually you reach saturation (the dew point) and condensation starts - you are not changing the amount (weight) of water in the air. Confusing percent relative humidity and percent humidity is a common mistake.

Air temperature vs relative humidity chart. Note the change in % relative humidity as the temps change.


Edited by billbartuska - 10/16/15 at 10:33am
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post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
Well ..****.

Ok ty for bring this to my attention. Your absolutely right. Done a little more research and yea, even if I start with 55% relative humidity, that will increase if I reduce air temp, thus keeping the Dew point more or less the same.

Ok.

hmm.

Short of buying a AC unit/dehumidifier, which defeats the purpose of moving the chiller into the loft (noise), or building a chill box. which is beyond my abilities, especially if I want it to look good and be of good quality. I cant think of any other way to reduce the Dew Point. Meaning ill likely have to run the Chilled water at probably 15c..which granted is better than ambient, but not great enough imo to warrant the cost of building a rig around the idea.

Bugger, was actually thinking a chiller might be the way forward. I really wanted to go sub ambient.
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post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
Ok crazy idea just went through my head.

What if I got a hold of a compact Peltier Style Dehumidifier, small enough to fit inside a Full Tower or Cube PC case, with minimal case airflow to recirculate most of the same air thus reducing humidity. Something along the lines of a Ivation ERSDM18 Mini Dehumidifier.
Of course it would require the removal of the water tray when it fills, but maybe I could modify the unit so a tube can be run from the drain port to a more accessible place. I would likely pull the unit apart to replace the stock fan with a Noctua one to reduce noise anyway so could do that at the same time. These things are relatively cheap also.

Thoughts ?
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post #7 of 17

You can still chill the water with the chiller.  Just don't go below dew point.

 

In order to go full sub zero you have to insulate your pc.  Build a chill box.  Check out sig links for more info.

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post #8 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by SolarNova View Post

Ok crazy idea just went through my head.

What if I got a hold of a compact Peltier Style Dehumidifier, small enough to fit inside a Full Tower or Cube PC case, with minimal case airflow to recirculate most of the same air thus reducing humidity. Something along the lines of a Ivation ERSDM18 Mini Dehumidifier.
Of course it would require the removal of the water tray when it fills, but maybe I could modify the unit so a tube can be run from the drain port to a more accessible place. I would likely pull the unit apart to replace the stock fan with a Noctua one to reduce noise anyway so could do that at the same time. These things are relatively cheap also.

Thoughts ?
If you limit the air flow to what the Ivation can dehimidify your computer (motherboarrd, memory, northbridge, drives, etc.) will overheat from such a low airflow.



When you go to component temps below the sew point, insulating the motherboard and blocks is the way to go. If it wasn't the best way people would be doing something else.
\
Are you in a place where you could do geothermal cooling?
.
Edited by billbartuska - 10/16/15 at 8:32pm
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post #9 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post


If you limit the air flow to what the Ivation can dehimidify your computer (motherboarrd, memory, northbridge, drives, etc.) will overheat from such a low airflow.



When you go to component temps below the sew point, insulating the motherboard and blocks is the way to go. If it wasn't the best way people would be doing something else.
\
Are you in a place where you could do geothermal cooling?
.

 

You don't have to insulate the components if you make a air tight box and chill the air the inside the box.  Thus no fresh air can get into the system so the dew point goes to zero because the temp inside the case is ex. -15f

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post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackwoodsNC View Post

You don't have to insulate the components if you make a air tight box and chill the air the inside the box.
LOL... And how would you do that??????
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