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Help! Corrosion in my loop - Page 2

post #11 of 26
actually mine werent gunked up. they were pretty damned clean. i was surprised seeing that bneg and the others were talking about them being such filthy rads. either mine were newer or older than theirs.

nickname, you dont use vinegar or any other other acid in a loop part for initial cleaning. you especially dont use a 1:1 ratio. you can use catsup/ketchup to scrub blocks that need cleaned after getting buildup after having been in a loop for awhile. if you feel like posting more or arguing about acids in blocks or rads, go tell b-neg its fine and argue with him.
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post #12 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just a nickname View Post

You have to rinse first with vinegar and hot water (50-50 mix I do). I rinse two times with vinegar. If you got corrosion inside, it will come out blue (with brass & copper). Brass is an alloy made of copper and zinc. Acid solution + copper oxide (very dark) = blueish solution.
With new radiators, it takes all the residues off. After that you need to rinse with hot water to get the vinegar out. You don't stop until you see nothing in the water that is coming out. So you have to empty the radiator into something and check for residues.
You gotta shake very hard. I put a towel to block the holes and protect my hands because the radiator gets VERY hot and I shake it as much as I can in various positions.
Oh yea and the fins of the radiator are made of iron (or whatever alloy) and if some water get on when your are cleaning the inside, you will get redish corrosion (that we can see on cars by example). A leaking radiator can also cause this kind of rust.

If your fittings are nickels, the block copper and the radiator is brass, you will be fine. But if the radiator is aluminium, copper and aluminium will react. Same apply for the fittings, you need to know what they are made of.

Without any picture, it is hard to judge what is the problem. Maybe you got something leaking? I have iron clamp so if some water went out, it would likely corrode the clamp.

Blueish corrosion in the radiator (brass) and dark corrosion (copper) is normal but a slow process. After 2 years, my block was completely dark with no anti corrosive used (only distilled water in the loop).

After I found the residue, I drained my loop and immediately let it soak in 7% white vinegar for about an hour or so and it came out blue(1 rad was soaked longer than the other so 1 was lighter and the other abit darker. Does that point towards some serious corrosion happening? I thought that was normal as the acid will be reacting with the copper.
post #13 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0x00000000 View Post

After I found the residue, I drained my loop and immediately let it soak in 7% white vinegar for about an hour or so and it came out blue(1 rad was soaked longer than the other so 1 was lighter and the other abit darker. Does that point towards some serious corrosion happening? I thought that was normal as the acid will be reacting with the copper.

Yes it is normal. Could you take a picture where it corroded?

@pc-illiterate
Mind to explain why?
It will clean much better than anything else. I've been doing it for years and never had any problem. Ketchup or vinegar, in the end ketchup is going to take much more time. I let vinegar react 10-15 mins (pure) to clean off my block and it went super smooth. Then with a toothbrush I brushed the places that needed more attention. The block is looking nearly brand new. With ketchup you wouldn't see at all what you are doing.
In the rad, I find that 1:1 is perfect because I have just enough to clean both of my rads. Vinegar = death to anything living into your rad.
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post #14 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just a nickname View Post

Yes it is normal. Could you take a picture where it corroded?

@pc-illiterate
Mind to explain why?
It will clean much better than anything else. I've been doing it for years and never had any problem. Ketchup or vinegar, in the end ketchup is going to take much more time. I let vinegar react 10-15 mins (pure) to clean off my block and it went super smooth. Then with a toothbrush I brushed the places that needed more attention. The block is looking nearly brand new. With ketchup you wouldn't see at all what you are doing.
In the rad, I find that 1:1 is perfect because I have just enough to clean both of my rads. Vinegar = death to anything living into your rad.

Rad looks normal to me on the outside. Since it is corroded, I will have to RMA it?
post #15 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by 0x00000000 View Post

Rad looks normal to me on the outside. Since it is corroded, I will have to RMA it?

Show me a picture where the corrosion is please.
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post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Just a nickname View Post

Show me a picture where the corrosion is please.

I have already cleaned out the rust coating on the fittings, when it happens again I will post a picture.
post #17 of 26
Thread Starter 
I have an additional question however, if I were to soak an uncorroded rad in either white vinegar or mayhems blitz pro part 1(which is essentially phosphoric acid) and then empty it out after awhile, will the solution be clear or still the same blue color?
post #18 of 26
Sounds like some water is getting out. It's a bit strange that your fitting is corroding as those are plated with nickel most of the time.
I use a clamp that prevent any leak.

copper + nitric acid:


It will always come out blue.

Oxide copper + acid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQxilez3Qg0

Pale blue.

However, given the fact that vinegar is a weak acid and the time of exposition is short, in both case the water will come out blue.
Since your radiator is new, it is assumed that few oxide are present. The purpose of the vinegar is to 1- kill everything that might be inside & 2- get rid of any residue that could be sticking (oil, whatever).

Third purpose, after a year (in my case it was 2 years), if you want to give back the brand new look to your gear, acid will eat the oxide (actually everything). So you can peel off the surface to remove the oxide. Instead of having a coal-black copper block you can bring back some of its initial color. Same apply for the radiator, but the real purpose is mainly to get rid of any gunk that might be inside.
Edited by Just a nickname - 10/18/15 at 7:28pm
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post #19 of 26
The amount of misinformation in this thread is astounding. There is no corrosion happening.

OP- I recommend researching these parts prior to purchasing. Alphacool radiators are some of the best out there, but they are not cleaned prior to shipping after the manufacturing process. The residue you are seeing in your loop is not rust, it is flux and solder left over from manufacturing. All Alphacool radiators must be cleaned prior to being used in a loop. One of the water cooling leaders, Mayhems, has multiple tests and articles about this subject and even has a range of acids and cleaners aimed at radiators which need cleaning after assembly. These products are called "Blitz" and performance-pcs sells them.

The vinegar is coming out blue and discolored because of the reaction of the acid in the vinegar and the chemicals in the radiator and the copper itself. Flushing the rads with water, regardless of temperature, isn't going to do anything to strip the flux and solder out of the radiator. I also have a 480mm UT60 and my loop was never clean until I used one of the Mayhems Blitz Pro kits to strip the inside of the radiator and then neutralize it. To answer another question of yours, you want the Blitz Part 1 to be dis colored, it means it did its job.

Again, the is no corrosion in your loop, only flux and solder from Alphacool's manufacturing.
Edited by The EX1 - 10/18/15 at 7:40pm
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post #20 of 26
the flux is water soluble therefore, water will get rid of the flux. the hotter, the better.
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