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Just bought an L360 2.0 kit... have questions (esp. AMD FX and the block)

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I have never tried to deal with a custom loop before so I have some questions. I got an L360 2.0 kit and I am going to be installing it on a Crosshair Z motherboard with an FX 8370E.

1) I have read conflicting information about which jet plate should be used with the MX. Some say the J4 is better because it's the least restrictive and was designed for an Intel chip which has cores nearer to the edges of the spreader (like an AMD FX). The J2 plate, as I recall, is thicker than even the J1, which is the opposite, then, of the J4 suggestion (that the FX would benefit from the thinnest plate). So, I'm confused about these recommendations. Also, some have said the jet plate makes a minimal difference (less than a degree).

Since there is no J4 with this kit I am wondering if J3 would then be the most optimal. Has anyone actually tested these inserts with the FX 8 cores to see if there is a real difference? Why would the thicker plate work better with the FX but not with 2011 v3?

2) The next thing is that I read a review of the EVO block and it had two inserts. The J2 insert was for AMD. I only see one loose insert with this kit and it's labeled I1. So, I assume insert 2 is already installed in the preassembled block?

Can I just use the preinstalled insert 2 with the J3 jetplate that's already installed (basically the 2011 v3 setup that's already there) and just swap the mounting plate for AMD? Or, will this significantly hamper performance. I really would like to avoid any extra steps where I could muck things up.

There is also a typo in the manual, it seems, under "Step 2: Table of Content." It says under "Additional Inserts and Jet plates" that the J1 plate is .3mm thick but the picture below and to the right says it's the J2 that's .3mm thick (J1 being .25mm thick).

3) The rotated "goofy" placement of the MX, according to one or two reviews, yielded better results with 2011 v3. Has anyone tested standard vs. rotated orientations with AMD FX 8 cores? It's only a degree of difference from what I've seen but I think I'd rather have that extra degree.

4) I assume I should flush the tubing and rinse the other stuff before filling up for the first time. Should I boil distilled water and let it cool down to the point where it's warm but not boiling? People suggested using hot tap water but I don't want any tap water near my stuff. Our tap water is loaded with minerals. I have also heard the suggestion of rinsing with vinegar and then flushing with distilled prior to installation. Is this a good idea?

5) The manual suggests pull orientation for the fans but every review, including watercooling shootouts, I've seen shows pull is the least optimal fan position. (Push is the most optimal for those with few fans and/or a thin radiator and push-pull the most optimal for thicker radiators. The radiator that comes with this kit was found, in one review, to have optimal performance for the push, not push-pull, configuration, when compared to the competition.) Some reviews don't even test pull only, which implies it's not worthwhile. Also, wouldn't having the fans inside the case pushing air through drop the noise level some?

6) Since nickle apparently isn't very compatible with silver coils, why use nickle at all? It seems like it would be simpler to just have people use plain distilled with a silver coil. Why bother with glycol, which has worse thermal qualities than distilled?

7) I am considering getting a VRM/northbridge EK block for my board (EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z). I found a supplier who still has it. What extras would I have to specifically get to use this block (adapters, fittings, etc.). I assume I would need to get a compression fitting but I don't know if there's anything else I would need, like some sort of adapter.

Any other tips are appreciated.
Edited by superstition222 - 10/20/15 at 12:26pm
post #2 of 14
Not sure about the jet plates.

For block orientation, do what looks best with your loop layout so water direction is still correct. Average difference between regular and goofy was only 1 or 2C. source

You will want to rinse the radiators with tap water until no particulates come out, then rinse twice with distilled. I just ran distilled for the leak test overnight with Primochill SysPrep, then purged the water and refilled with distilled and PrimoChill LiquidUtopia (anti-corrosive and biocide).

If it will fit, push/pull is the best option. Push should perform better than pull. I'm not sure why the manual recommends pull.

Nickle protects copper and looks better in many cases. While they make a good anti-microbal, kill coils introduce unnecessary silver ions to the distilled water and can promote corrosion in not just nickle, but other metals too. Everyone has their liquid of choice for coolant. I recommend the distilled + Primochill LiquidUtopia, but that is because it is the only one I have used. I'm sure there are better and worse options.

I hope I helped a little. Post pix when you are done. thumb.gif
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the post. smile.gif

I can't proceed, unfortunately (except for rinsing the stuff), until I figure out what to do about the jet plates.

I was surprised about the manual suggesting pull, too.

"It is recommended to use pull mode as it yields in higher performance." This is said in at least two places.
Edited by superstition222 - 10/20/15 at 1:02pm
post #4 of 14
4) Do not rinse with vinegar. If you are so concerned about it, use a cleaning kit like Mayhems Blitz. Otherwise, yes, you should rinse with distilled and not tap water.

5) Assuming this is set up at exhaust: If you have a neutral or negative-pressure case, use the fans in push. If you have a positive-pressure case, use the fans in pull.

6) Nickle works well with copper sulphate, which is another popular biocide. Nickle is also a cheaper alternative to copper, and can be run in the same loop without significant risk of corrosion. Furthermore, if anodic corrosion were to occur in a loop with nickel and copper, the nickle would draw the corrosion while the copper remains fine.

As for why people would bother with glycol, it is usually diluted with water to maintain a significant amount of water's thermal qualities. Furthermore, it extends the operating temperature range of the coolant (e.g. lower freezing temperature). It also inhibits growth of unwanted critters.

7) Just get EK fittings that will match the tubing you have. If using compression fittings, make sure both the inner diameter and outer diameter match.
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gftgy View Post

Assuming this is set up at exhaust: If you have a neutral or negative-pressure case, use the fans in push. If you have a positive-pressure case, use the fans in pull.
It's a Phantom 530 which looks like it's positive pressure, although probably not by much, considering how the drive case frame restricts the front fan some and how far the fan is away from where the radiator will be.
post #6 of 14
The case itself doesn't dictate whether the case has positive or negative air pressure. The ratio of intake air to exhaust air does.
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gftgy View Post

The case itself doesn't dictate whether the case has positive or negative air pressure. The ratio of intake air to exhaust air does.
With the stock fans in the arrangement they are in by default I would say that it does. But, regardless, I am not certain about whether or not the case is positive, neutral, or negative. I did some Googling and found people mainly asking the question but that's all.

Since I am not using the drive cages that blocked the 200mm front fan the airflow is probably more positive than it would be otherwise. Still, I wonder if it will be enough of a difference to warrant a pull configuration. I could adjust the speeds of the fans to make it more negative, of course, as well. I never see pull winning in any circumstances in reviews/roundups.

I think the only exception is with front-mounted radiators on things like the Corsair H50. I definitely got better CPU temps with cool air coming in. But I was using push-pull and had it up in the 5 1/4 bay of another case, sitting atop the optical drive (with the top exhaust getting rid of a lot of the CPU heat). I tried moving it to the top of the case and CPU temps were definitely worse. So I can see the argument for pulling in cool air from outside. But I plan to mount the radiator in the top of the case. I don't want to remove the front intake and blast the inside of the case with FX heat.

Also, the front fan is also mounted so low (with no fans so far up higher as intakes unless I do the usual thing and add one somewhere) and the rear exhaust is mounted so much higher that, for the top-mounted 360mm radiator, the case could be considered negative or balanced, I suppose. That is, unless I reduce the speed of the exhaust and turn the front to max in which case things might change.
Edited by superstition222 - 10/20/15 at 1:40pm
post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

With the stock fans in the arrangement they are in by default I would say that it does.

But you aren't using the case in its stock arrangement, are you? You seem to be forgetting that the L360 kit comes with three EK-Vardar F3-120 I'm assuming you will be using. That would definitely warrant a change in airflow.
post #9 of 14
I wonder if they meant using it as intake not in pull config.
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gftgy View Post

But you aren't using the case in its stock arrangement, are you? You seem to be forgetting that the L360 kit comes with three EK-Vardar F3-120 I'm assuming you will be using. That would definitely warrant a change in airflow.
I was referring to the case, not stuff being added to it, hence the question about whether or not the radiator fans should be used in pull or push. rolleyes.gif

You also referred to the case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gftgy View Post

Assuming this is set up at exhaust: If you have a neutral or negative-pressure case, use the fans in push. If you have a positive-pressure case, use the fans in pull.

Instead of trying to play "gotcha" maybe you could instead tell me about the things I actually don't know, like which jet plate is the best. I do know that the radiator will have three fans on it.
Edited by superstition222 - 10/20/15 at 3:54pm
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