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My First PC ever!!! (If the pre-built one my parents bought in 2007 isn't counted) - Page 3

post #21 of 37
Quote:
CPU: Intel Core i7-6700 Skylake
Mainboard: MSI Z170A Krait Gaming
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) possibly upgrade to 32GB
CPU Cooler: Corsair H55
PSU: Corsair CX750
SSD: Samsung 850 Pro 256GB for Windows
HDD: WD Black 1TB for software and gaming, WD 4TB for data
VGA: Propably GTX970, but I'm still deciding, any thought is welcomed.
and the important thing: My CORSAIR VENGEANCE C70 in Military Green :3

As others have said, maybe go for a 6700K especially if you plan to overclock. The 6700 (no K) starts out at 3.4 GHz base frequency with a turbo to 4 GHz. On the other hand, the 6700K starts at 4 GHz and turbos to 4.2 GHz.

Additionally maybe go for a Corsair H100 or H110? I can't tell if the Z170A Krait Gaming has LGA mounting holes that match the existing LGA1150 type design, but given that the socket dimensions seem to be the same, I assume the hole mounts are the same also.

I am tempted to suggest that you drop the 1 TB black and put the extra money towards your GPU. I have a 180 GB SSD myself, and it's more than ample for all my applications. I just keep a small fixed-size swap file on my SSD for any software that assumes it exists, but otherwise I dump all my documents and whatnot onto a 2 TB auxiliary drive smile.gif
4690K System
(12 items)
 
HTPC
(9 items)
 
HP dv6 laptop
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 4690K ASRock Z97 Extreme4 XFX Radeon 7950 32 GB DDR3-2133 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 850 EVO SSD Samsung DVD/CD-writer Corsair Hydro H60 Windows 7 
MonitorMonitorPowerCase
ASUS PA248Q Dell U2412M XFX 850W Black Edition XXX Fractal Design Arc Midi 2 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Pentium Dual Core E6700 MSI G41M-P33 Combo ATI HD4350 Kingston ValueRAM DDR3-1333 
RAMHard DriveOSMonitor
Kingston ValueRAM DDR3-1333 WD Caviar Blue Windows 7 64-bit Sony 32" TV set 
Case
Apex TX-381 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Core i5 430M GT230M (1 Gb dedicated) 8 GB DDR3-1066 640 GB 
OSMonitor
Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit) 15.6" 
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4690K System
(12 items)
 
HTPC
(9 items)
 
HP dv6 laptop
(13 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i5 4690K ASRock Z97 Extreme4 XFX Radeon 7950 32 GB DDR3-2133 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 850 EVO SSD Samsung DVD/CD-writer Corsair Hydro H60 Windows 7 
MonitorMonitorPowerCase
ASUS PA248Q Dell U2412M XFX 850W Black Edition XXX Fractal Design Arc Midi 2 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Pentium Dual Core E6700 MSI G41M-P33 Combo ATI HD4350 Kingston ValueRAM DDR3-1333 
RAMHard DriveOSMonitor
Kingston ValueRAM DDR3-1333 WD Caviar Blue Windows 7 64-bit Sony 32" TV set 
Case
Apex TX-381 
CPUGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Core i5 430M GT230M (1 Gb dedicated) 8 GB DDR3-1066 640 GB 
OSMonitor
Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit) 15.6" 
  hide details  
Reply
post #22 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

the samsung 850 evo is a sata ssd. it uses the m.2 slot but as i mentioned, the one you want to get is the PCIe3 version of the m.2 not the PCIe2 or the sata version

basically these type

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=m.2+&N=100008118%20600640786%20600521287&isNodeId=1

the i7 deal from microcenter is insanely good... i wish there is a microcenter where i live frown.gif

the 2x8 vengeance lpx 3000mhz is also a very good deal. wish newegg had that deal biggrin.gif
I'll go get the RAM today
M.2 is so confusing, that's why I need your help:p
The i7 deal is still there so I'll let it wait till next Sunday, when the paycheck come, and Microcenter is just 0.2 miles from my work place, yay
post #23 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quantum Reality View Post

As others have said, maybe go for a 6700K especially if you plan to overclock. The 6700 (no K) starts out at 3.4 GHz base frequency with a turbo to 4 GHz. On the other hand, the 6700K starts at 4 GHz and turbos to 4.2 GHz.

Additionally maybe go for a Corsair H100 or H110? I can't tell if the Z170A Krait Gaming has LGA mounting holes that match the existing LGA1150 type design, but given that the socket dimensions seem to be the same, I assume the hole mounts are the same also.

I am tempted to suggest that you drop the 1 TB black and put the extra money towards your GPU. I have a 180 GB SSD myself, and it's more than ample for all my applications. I just keep a small fixed-size swap file on my SSD for any software that assumes it exists, but otherwise I dump all my documents and whatnot onto a 2 TB auxiliary drive smile.gif
yes, I'll get the K one XD
I'm thinking of shrinking the Black too, but the thing is there's a deal for the 1TB one that makes it the same price to the 750GB one tongue.gif
Let me consider about the H110
post #24 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

well, if you are talking about a GTX980Ti coming in at 250w, then i'd agree with you. but the GTX970 is only 145w and even the GTX980 is only 165w. so realistically, a 600w PSU has more then enough headroom to handle even GTX980 SLi and whatever misc accessory you have in mind. remember when i did my estimation i added 100w of power to misc stuff already. that's a fairly generous estimate given the components you are talking about. realistically, your misc power draw is maybe 50w or less in normal gaming load.

here's an old vid but the info on it is valid. you can look up the TDP of the components he used in the vid and make a comparison to the system you intend to build. he touched on the overall efficiency of the PSU under various loads and just remember you aren't ALWAYS running benchmark or playing games when you have your computer on.



if you look towards the end of the vid, he was running a pair of GTX580's (244w TDP GPU so it's similar to the GTX980Ti at 250w TDP ) and an overclocked 2600k (95w TDP so it's the same as the 6700k). with that setup, he was only pulling 523w from the wall under benchmark load... so even with that setup, a high quality 600w is "overkill" under "gaming load" since you will never reach the power draw of the benchmark load under ANY gaming situation.

so... this is the info you need for making your decision. the rest is up to you smile.gif personally i'd go with lower wattage and better quality so you'd pay less on your electric bill.
Thanks for clearing my mind, time for some adjustment and saving XD
post #25 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaipham101 View Post

Thanks for clearing my mind, time for some adjustment and saving XD

just remember, whatever you end up buying, check with that list of recommended PSU. a PSU won't make it on the list unless it's considered a "quality" unit. not saying the list contains ALL of the quality units on the market, just that the one's on the list has been reviewed by the PSU experts on OCN and given the thumbs up.

if there is a unit that is on sale and you think it might be a good unit, then make a thread in the PSU section and see what shilka or Phaedrus or anyone else that hangs out at the PSU section thinks. it may be a good unit but just haven't been updated on the list yet.

the main difference between a quality unit and something not on the list is 1. it will deliver the rated power all day everyday. 2. it will deliver that power cleanly with tight voltage regulation and w/o excessive ripple. 3. circuits designed to sacrifice itself rather then damage the components connected to it in the event of a catastrophic failure. so... yah go with quality over quantity every time when it comes to PSU.
post #26 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyclum View Post

just remember, whatever you end up buying, check with that list of recommended PSU. a PSU won't make it on the list unless it's considered a "quality" unit. not saying the list contains ALL of the quality units on the market, just that the one's on the list has been reviewed by the PSU experts on OCN and given the thumbs up.

if there is a unit that is on sale and you think it might be a good unit, then make a thread in the PSU section and see what shilka or Phaedrus or anyone else that hangs out at the PSU section thinks. it may be a good unit but just haven't been updated on the list yet.

the main difference between a quality unit and something not on the list is 1. it will deliver the rated power all day everyday. 2. it will deliver that power cleanly with tight voltage regulation and w/o excessive ripple. 3. circuits designed to sacrifice itself rather then damage the components connected to it in the event of a catastrophic failure. so... yah go with quality over quantity every time when it comes to PSU.
I think I'll go for the Corsair RM550, tongue.gif
post #27 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaipham101 View Post

I think I'll go for the Corsair RM550, tongue.gif

only if it's on sale for a dirt cheap price. otherwise, there are better units at the same price or cheaper units at the same quality. corsair in general charge $10 to $15 more for their PSU then the rest of the world.

your best bet before deciding is to make a thread in the PSU section and ask the folks there for advice. i don't keep up with the latest models or the prices they are going for so they will have more updated info then me.
Edited by psyclum - 10/23/15 at 11:16am
post #28 of 37

That recommend psu list is over a year outdated there is a lot of newer psu out that are better. The RM550 is overpriced and kinda meh

 

What I would recommend:

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171092

 

 

M.2 I would wait for the Samsung 950 pro to come out Dec. 1 or go sata

 

Also most high end air coolers outperform most AIO coolers and the H55 is kinda loud and doesn't perform all that great. So maybe consider a high end air cooler or perhaps a better AIO


Edited by ozlay - 10/23/15 at 11:55am
Silvia
(7 items)
 
Red Queen
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel I5-7600k Asrock Z270M Extreme 4 GTX 1060 Galax HOF 
Hard DriveOSCase
Samsung 850 pro windows 10 pro enthoo evolv matx tempered glass 
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Silvia
(7 items)
 
Red Queen
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel I5-7600k Asrock Z270M Extreme 4 GTX 1060 Galax HOF 
Hard DriveOSCase
Samsung 850 pro windows 10 pro enthoo evolv matx tempered glass 
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post #29 of 37
I actually like the slight smudge on the lettering, its more realistic to what you would see from a piece of equipment from the military, I remember having to spray diesel jugs at LeJeune after field ops and it was always a pain in the kester. If you want precision then maybe something like this will help http://www.michaels.com/painting/paint-pens/845162977, I bought a white one for my 600T to paint the Corsair logo's on the drive bay snaps, worked perfectly.
post #30 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozlay View Post

That recommend psu list is over a year outdated there is a lot of newer psu out that are better. The RM550 is overpriced and kinda meh

What I would recommend:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438053

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171092


M.2 I would wait for the Samsung 950 pro to come out Dec. 1 or go sata

Also most high end air coolers outperform most AIO coolers and the H55 is kinda loud and doesn't perform all that great. So maybe consider a high end air cooler or perhaps a better AIO

between the 2 i'd go with the coolermaster unit. their V series is their better line and price wise the coolermaster is cheaper. it's also smaller in terms of size so if you ever decide to go with a small form factor case, the shorter PSU will fit better and give you more room for cable management.
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