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post #21 of 33
How do you not understand that it only takes a single wrong bit to totally corrupt data to the point of being unrecognizable? Engineers have done their jobs, and these interfaces just work fine. If they didn't, once you got a bit error, you would know it, and it wouldn't just result in lower fidelity.

I don't know why your type even argues against optical fibers. They can carry more data than a wire because they aren't affected by electrical interference.
 
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post #22 of 33
How does a DAC know that the bit coming down the wire is different than the bit that was on the CD or in the digital music file?

The issue with optical transmission (toslink) isn't bandwidth, it's the lack of asynchronicity.
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post #23 of 33
It doesn't matter. If the data gets corrupted, nothing but noise will play. Picoseconds of jitter along the wire doesn't need to be worried about. Picoseconds of jitter in a DAC's clock doesn't even need to be worried about. The people who design these things to their jobs. If there is an issue with clocks not matching, it would be drift over time, and you would get total corruption of the stream.

TOSLINK and any other S/PDIF format isn't just sending the same PCM bits that it gets from a player. There is a clock that is twice the incoming rate applied to the data. USB only has two data wires, and they are simply a differential pair. They are not lanes. So you have one signal there, too, and no extra wire for a dedicated clock. If nobody can even measure or record a difference between these interfaces, I don't know what makes people think they can hear one.
 
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post #24 of 33
The only time I've ever suffered jitter was when I had my Poor pc hooked to my home theatre with toslink, while running a youtube video, converting an MP3 in the background, installing a ton of games during a Steam sale, and using Skype to discuss a podcast scrpit. This was all while using the on-board Realtec on the GD65.

After building the new box i've never had any issues at all. In my case I just didn't have the horsepower to run all that crap at the same time, and the on-board audio was the first thing to give me grief.

If you have the machine to run it reliably, and don't do stupid crap like I did, then I say go with toslink off a Realtec 1150 or some add-in card. Grab a used Denon or Onkyo home theater head unit and grab a set of ATH-M40X and be happy as a clam.
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post #25 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramicio View Post

Only DAC clock jitter does anything. Jitter in the path of data does absolutely nothing to the data.

USB cannot sound better than TOSLINK given the same data. A 0 is a 0 and a 1 is a 1.

I forgot to add this in my original piece. ramicio is right. toslink is optical, and therefore interference and crosstalk-free. DAC clock jitter is the only cause of audio issues in its path.
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post #26 of 33
I missed this one. Now I'm sad.

I'm the older guy that has amps that have to warm up when I don't turn them off.
    
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post #27 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by hertz9753 View Post

I missed this one. Now I'm sad.

I'm the older guy that has amps that have to warm up when I don't turn them off.
Is it the amps warming up or the cables re-burning in?
I have the same thing, It takes about a half hour. I have bi-wired speakers, but only the audioquest cables on the highs have the DBS battery,
I should try disconnecting the battery and see if anything changes.Maybe someday........
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post #28 of 33
Cable burn-in?
 
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post #29 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hertz9753 View Post

I missed this one. Now I'm sad.

I'm the older guy that has amps that have to warm up when I don't turn them off.
Is it the amps warming up or the cables re-burning in?
I have the same thing, It takes about a half hour. I have bi-wired speakers, but only the audioquest cables on the highs have the DBS battery,
I should try disconnecting the battery and see if anything changes.Maybe someday........

My Adcom GFA 555 is from the 80's. It has been rebuilt with stock caps. The amp makes popping sounds inside of it when it is warming up. I have two of those amps and both of them make the same sounds.

Big capacitors make noise while they heat up.
    
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post #30 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramicio View Post

Cable burn-in?

I missed your post. When you run real power everything needs to heat up including speaker wires.

Sorry for the double post but I'm old school and some of the people that claim to know everything don't.

I think I just went a little off topic. redface.gif
    
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