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First Loop, <$500 configuration and parts

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I decided that I do not like my AIO that I purchased because of a high frequency sound and I would like to get my GPU water cooled as well so I am going to build a custom loop. One disclaimer, I am in Japan and buying parts locally adds about a 20% markup to what I could order from overseas so I am limited to overseas sources that will ship to Japan. (Amazon.com/EKWB, etc.)

My priorities are the following:
1. Quiet
2. Temps Stock CPU under load <40c, GPU <50c, OC can be a little bit higher
3. Price Budget $500 or less
4. Looks good


Here is the build I am thinking about. (+7 more fittings brings total to about $470)

https://i.imgur.com/ZmAJzHC.png

I have also included some possible loop configurations. Of course the best would probably putting a res between the cpu and gpu but I'm finding it difficult to do so. I would have to have both rads in intake to do it, or have my front rad exhaust. My gpu waterblock will have terminals from front and not the top of the card because I am limited by the height of my Corsair 240. Build is a 3570k & GTX980ti ref.

I might be able to fit the thicker rad, it is only 10$ more than the current one I have selected, would it be worth it?
Are there any parts I could swap out for equivalent price or better temps or quieter performance?

Thanks for any help!!
post #2 of 12
Get longer radator instead of thicker radator
if the price is same

If your not overvolting RAM take away the waterblock
If you have heat sinks on RAM be perpared for riping a chips off
watch tutorials on taking heatsinks of ram

Go the extra dollar and or lapp your cpu block

As higher voltages will fully depend of waterflow and mainly cpu block heat transfer
as cpu will be cooking and you water block will be cold
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 10/26/15 at 2:37am
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

Get longer radator instead of thicker radator
if the price is same

If your not overvolting RAM take away the waterblock
If you have heat sinks on RAM be perpared for riping a chips off
watch tutorials on taking heatsinks of ram

Go the extra dollar and or lapp your cpu block

As higher voltages will fully depend of waterflow and mainly cpu block heat transfer
as cpu will be cooking and you water block will be cold

Sorry I am new to this and I didn't quite understand your reply. I will try to answer what I can.

Max Rads for my case are (1) Bot 240mm x 30mm , (2) Front 240mm x 60mm, (3) Top 240 (no fans) or a 120mm, (4) back of case 120mm.
I won't be able to go longer than 240.

Do you mean the ram on the GPU? I have an EVGA SC+ (ref board). I am not overclocking because of the current temps. But I would overclock if I had better cooling.
I am OC'ing my CPU to 4ghz but I would go higher if I had better cooling as well.

I didn't understand this sentence. "Go the extra dollar and or lapp your cpu block " What do you mean? Get a better cpu block?
post #4 of 12
Thats a 240 Air Carbide you using?

Why would you want a Res between CPU & GPU ?

Best would probably be 2x 240 One Front, One Bottom. (C).... its gonna be a tight fit and you might have to mount your Res/Pump combo "behind the motherboard", not visible through the window to make it all fit. You could consider using a X-Flow radiator to simplify loop routing (see pic below)

Either way, all radiator should be air INTAKE for best performance.

RAM: I'm sure he means the heat spreaders on the System RAM. In most case they can be removed, which lowers the height of the RAM chips.


CPU Lapping biggrin.gif
http://www.overclock.net/t/290130/lapping-your-cpu-and-heatsink/0_50






Edited by RnRollie - 10/26/15 at 4:04am
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Thats a 240 Air Carbide you using?

Why would you want a Res between CPU & GPU ?

Best would probably be 2x 240 One Front, One Bottom. (C).... its gonna be a tight fit and you might have to mount your Res/Pump combo "behind the motherboard", not visible through the window to make it all fit. You could consider using a X-Flow radiator to simplify loop routing (see pic below)

Either way, all radiator should be air INTAKE for best performance.

RAM: I'm sure he means the heat spreaders on the System RAM. In most case they can be removed, which lowers the height of the RAM chips.


CPU Lapping biggrin.gif
http://www.overclock.net/t/290130/lapping-your-cpu-and-heatsink/0_50






My inspiration for the Res over GPU is this guys build: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6016033 but you are correct with the actual pathing.. I guess I just assumed the closest path would be the best, I might have to rethink it if I end up going that way.

I should have enough room to mount my pump/res combo on the front radiator(I actually am not sure exactly if it would fit..) sticking it in the back also would be a possibility if it doesn't work out but I would prefer to have it visible, hence the exhaust mount in the back.

If I did go with my C loop i probably wouldn't need to use a X-flow since it nicely flows.

My current ram is not tall at all, the heat spreaders are the same height as the actual modules themselves.
post #6 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by gary66 View Post

Sorry I am new to this and I didn't quite understand your reply. I will try to answer what I can.

Max Rads for my case are (1) Bot 240mm x 30mm , (2) Front 240mm x 60mm, (3) Top 240 (no fans) or a 120mm, (4) back of case 120mm.
I won't be able to go longer than 240.

Do you mean the ram on the GPU? I have an EVGA SC+ (ref board). I am not overclocking because of the current temps. But I would overclock if I had better cooling.
I am OC'ing my CPU to 4ghz but I would go higher if I had better cooling as well.

I didn't understand this sentence. "Go the extra dollar and or lapp your cpu block " What do you mean? Get a better cpu block?
I ment RAM water block , DDR3 DDR4

Since you have a heat spreader on your RAM you will need to take it off before you can water chill it
you risk ripping your ram chips off and it is unsecray if you don't go over 1.7V with ddr3 RAM

If you want to overclock at extremes for extra 0.1 0.2GHZ cooling
then you should get a better cpu block
since heat trasnfer of CPU to water block is your main limiting factor if you do go at high voltages
Quote:
Originally Posted by gary66 View Post

My inspiration for the Res over GPU is this guys build: http://www.overclock.net/lists/display/view/id/6016033 but you are correct with the actual pathing.. I guess I just assumed the closest path would be the best, I might have to rethink it if I end up going that way.

I should have enough room to mount my pump/res combo on the front radiator(I actually am not sure exactly if it would fit..) sticking it in the back also would be a possibility if it doesn't work out but I would prefer to have it visible, hence the exhaust mount in the back.

If I did go with my C loop i probably wouldn't need to use a X-flow since it nicely flows.

My current ram is not tall at all, the heat spreaders are the same height as the actual modules themselves.
Length of tubing dosen't effect peformance, what does is having bent soft tubes and having it restrict water flow
therefore if your not going hard tubing, it is more important to get the right figitngs and better planing so your tubes won't be bent

You'd want your pump away from you hard drives and hard drive cables, as the magnetifield will cause you to have sudden crashes in your system
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 10/26/15 at 11:33am
post #7 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

Thats a 240 Air Carbide you using?

Why would you want a Res between CPU & GPU ?

Best would probably be 2x 240 One Front, One Bottom. (C).... its gonna be a tight fit and you might have to mount your Res/Pump combo "behind the motherboard", not visible through the window to make it all fit. You could consider using a X-Flow radiator to simplify loop routing (see pic below)

Either way, all radiator should be air INTAKE for best performance.

IMO all of this ^ sounds pretty good, minus the x-flow rad, I think you can make it work without it, and if you can fit the res above the GPU then all the better.
 
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intel i5 750 Lynnfield Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3 ASUS Strix GTX 960 G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial BX100 SSD 500GB EKWB EK-KIT L120 Corsair SP120 Koolance 2x140mm Radiator HX-CU1402V 
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AMD Phenom 9750 ASUS M3A78-CM PNY XLR8 GTX 460 Corsair XMS2 (4 x 1GB) 
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Hitachi 5K500 Silenx 92mm EFFIZIO Corsair SP 120 Red LED Antec 500watt 
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
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Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial BX100 SSD 500GB EKWB EK-KIT L120 Corsair SP120 Koolance 2x140mm Radiator HX-CU1402V 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair AF140 Bitspower VG-NGTX960 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Samsung Curved 27" S27D590C 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair Strafe RGB Apevia Iceburg 680 watts Apevia X-Sniper 2 EVGA Torq X3 Laser 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom 9750 ASUS M3A78-CM PNY XLR8 GTX 460 Corsair XMS2 (4 x 1GB) 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingPower
Hitachi 5K500 Silenx 92mm EFFIZIO Corsair SP 120 Red LED Antec 500watt 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-6400 Skylake ASRock A170A-X1/3.1 Gigabye G1 Gaming GTX 970 Windforce CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DD... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
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post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

IMO all of this ^ sounds pretty good, minus the x-flow rad, I think you can make it work without it, and if you can fit the res above the GPU then all the better.

Thank you for the reassurance! I am in the process of actually measuring everything to make sure the look would work. There are a few things that might be super tight or impossible and I am speaking with EK about measurements at the moment.

I am probably 80% sure I can fit the Res/Pump combo above the GPU. I am only 50% sure about attaching it to the front Rad.

I need to figure out how much a 90 degree fitting will stick out of a GPU block because that might hit the bottom rad and/or limit rad thickness there. However if I decided to go with a VGA Supremacy I could have the tubes coming off flat with the GPU instead of perpendicular. My GTX 980ti has a midplate that would help with the cooling of VRAM etc but I am not sure, guess I still need more research!!
post #9 of 12
wisk did a good job on that rig. if you want to use it for inspiration you have his pictures to help. no one can tell you it wont work because you see it does. have you read his build log on that build? i dont know if there is 1 but i didnt want you to run into problems where he modded something and you didnt realize that.
good luck.


also, youre going to need another radiator if you want quiet.
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post #10 of 12
oh yeah, forgot to mention it...... you could make life easier and go for an external rad like a Phobya (super)Nova or Watercool MO-RA3.. no tight & complex fits and just as portable as if everything was build in.
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