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re-school an old overclocker on a new board

post #1 of 40
Thread Starter 
Ended up with an 8320e black edition on asrock 970pro mATX board. The last cpu I overclocked was an am2+ and the bios interface looked insanely different. I only glanced at the new one and thought before I start changing stuff I should ask is there anything I should know about the new bios and overclocking? Hoping to just up cpu vua multiplier, but no sure what to disable beyond cool n quiet.
post #2 of 40
Sorry, i've not used an AMD board, but maybe This Guide should help.
post #3 of 40
1) Disable Turbo, disable APM.
2) Disable LLC if the board has it (usually Asrock's LLC is useless in these 970 boards for FX, it wildly overshoots).
3) Raise multiplier to desired value.
4) Raise voltage. To give a ballpark value, for 8320E, 4Ghz *should* be at around 1.25v effective voltage in Windows under stress (adjust in BIOS to account for vdroop).
5) Use IBT AVX at Very High or Maximum (don't use Standard, too easy and you will be unstable) for quick stress testing.

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202

6) Use Prime95 for at least 12h (since you are old school, you may do the whole 24h drill) for final confirmation.

You can leave Cool N Quiet, C1, C6 enabled. For me they never did any differnce. People who go for 5Ghz say they benefit from disabling it, i don't know... I guess you can also start with Cool N Quiet, C1, C6 disabled and once you are sure you are stable, re-enable them and see if you lose stability or not.

You don't need to touch BClock, even Stilt says it doesn't bring real life benefit.
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post #4 of 40
Much faster way to get a read on how your overclocking is performing is to use this combo:

1) Cinebench multi-thread and then OpenGL
2) LinX set to 2048 (four to eight iterations)

These will give you a fast measurement of your overclocking situation prior to spending a lot of time stress testing.

You can, for instance, find that a voltage that is rather stable may not be enough for optimal performance by looking at how many GFLOPS you get in LinX and what your multicore performance is in Cinebench.

You can also find out how much things like turbo overclocking and leaving on power-saving features is hindering your performance (versus disabling everything and turning on high-performance mode in BIOS which forces the processor to never throttle).

Use the detailed extended version of HWinfo to monitor your VRM temps in addition to the standards: core, socket, northbridge. VRM temps will rise and can destabilize an overclock that seems stable.

Always have a fan blowing onto the VRMs and the northbridge.

Before doing a long Prime run check stability with two rounds of RealBench (just the two encoding steps checked).

When doing Prime use custom and set the FFT size to range of 700-900K and RAM to 1.5 or 2 GB less than the amount of RAM in your system.

Prime is more demanding than LinX but LinX is close and will heat up your VRMs a lot. LinX is good for "quick and dirty" stability and performance testing. Prime is better for multi-hour runs although you should monitor the VRM and CPU temps until you're sure they aren't continuing to rise or you could fry something when you're not around.

Ambient temperature plays a critical role in the amount of voltage needed.
post #5 of 40
Thread Starter 
The best I could get out of the chip today was 3.819 ghz (201x19), I was sorely disappointed....I threw 1.4v at it, went through everything I could and nothing helped. My last chip(phII 940BE) could do 3.8ghz...I don't know, I think I am a bit disappointed. I did throw it through an hour of ibx at maximum, without issues on temp or or stability.
post #6 of 40
false
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemans81 View Post

The best I could get out of the chip today was 3.819 ghz (201x19), I was sorely disappointed....I threw 1.4v at it, went through everything I could and nothing helped. My last chip(phII 940BE) could do 3.8ghz...I don't know, I think I am a bit disappointed. I did throw it through an hour of ibx at maximum, without issues on temp or or stability.
Must be that board. You would have no difficulty getting it to 4.5 on a UD3P (fans on nb and vrm, good CPU cooler) and, with good cooling, to 5 on a Sabertooth.

You're not using the stock cooler I hope. It's junk.
post #7 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

false
Must be that board. You would have no difficulty getting it to 4.5 on a UD3P and, with good cooling, to 5 on a Sabertooth.

Yes... Or he is doing something wrong in BIOS settings. 3.9 is inferior to stock Turbo, so there is NO way that the CPU is at fault here. Actually, from what we 've seen, at 1.4v this motherboard must be cooking mosfets. It's possible that his mosfets are already overheating and needs to put a fan to blow on them.

@ Lemans81. Do try also with CnQ, C1, C6 disabled to see if it's any different.
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post #8 of 40
Thread Starter 
I did disable all of those. I have 5 delta fans running 150+cfm, a 200mm fan running 80cfm, 3x enemax fans moving 75cfm, using a cm hyper 212evo cooler.

I should state while in cpuz that 1.4v in the bios was being read as 1.32v.

So what micro board would be better, I want sataIII and usb 3.0?(my case only allows micro boards)
post #9 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemans81 View Post

I did disable all of those. I have 5 delta fans running 150+cfm, a 200mm fan running 80cfm, 3x enemax fans moving 75cfm, using a cm hyper 212evo cooler.

I should state while in cpuz that 1.4v in the bios was being read as 1.32v.

Setting higher in BIOS and getting lower once inside Windows under stress, is "normal". It's vdroop. Some motherboards have one setting called "LLC" (Load Line calibration) in the BIOS, to counter this. See if yours has it, BUT, be VERY careful, because all Asrock 970 boards i 've seen with it, have very bad regulation and tend to overshoot wildly (you put 1.4v and you get 1.5v). So if your BIOS has LLC, try a low setting first, like 1.2v and go inside Windows, stress test and see what value you get in CPU-Z. If it doesn't overshoot too much, adjust accordingly in BIOS. At the end of the day for low-medium overclocks, LLC isn't vital, because the CPU only understands voltage. So even with vdroop, the question is whether the CPU receives clean, steady power or not. It's more of annoyance, because losing 0.8v at 1.4v, it's quite a big vdroop!
Quote:
So what micro board would be better, I want sataIII and usb 3.0?(my case only allows micro boards)

The motherboard you got, *should* be able to do 4Ghz on a low leakage part as a 8320E... But i don't know what's wrong with it... There is no other motherboard mATX with SATA3 and USB3. The best structural mATX is Gigabyte 78LTM USB:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128565

You get USB3, but SATA2. Personally, i don't think it's a huge loss, because what makes a system snappy are the random 4K read/writes. Which SATA2 hasn't problem with. Where you lose, is in the consecutive reads/writes, where you will be limited to SATA2 speeds, but it's always much better than any mechanical HDD and the only way to have consecutive reads, is when loading games or big files with perfect data alignment, which is nearly impossible.

I don't know, i was never a fan of this mATX Asrock, because when you see unbranded mosfets, it's never good news, but it's odd it can't even do 4Ghz on low leakage part.
Edited by Undervolter - 11/2/15 at 12:49am
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FX-8320@4Ghz Gigabyte 970 UD3P rev2.1 Gainward GTX 750Ti Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz 16GB (4x4GB) 
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Crucial BX100 250GB Western Digital Green 2TB LiteOn Blu-Ray Burner IHBS 112-2 LG BH16NS55 Blu-Ray Burner 
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FX-8320@4Ghz Gigabyte 970 UD3P rev2.1 Gainward GTX 750Ti Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz 16GB (4x4GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveOptical Drive
Crucial BX100 250GB Western Digital Green 2TB LiteOn Blu-Ray Burner IHBS 112-2 LG BH16NS55 Blu-Ray Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Scythe Katana 3 Windows 7 Pro 64bit ASUS 22" VS228HR Microsoft Wired Keyboard 600 
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Windows 7 Pro 64bit Samsung S22B350H Microsoft Wired 600 Corsair VS350 
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post #10 of 40
Thread Starter 
For a hdd I am using a Samsung 840pro 500gb(its about 3 years oldish).

There is another option...and I wish I could remember but its something to do with cpu and I recall it had 4 options auto/0mw/50mw/100mw/150mw......brain is too old and tired to remember lol.

I know vdroop....the old dfi bloodiron/ironblood?? used to have it badly, on an e8400 I would have to set it at 1.45v to get 1.36v out of them...once you accounted for vdroop they were great boards. None of my old AMD boards(evga 590sli, evga 690sli, dfi 790fx, and a couple of gigabyte boards too) ever had an issue with much vdroop to be honest, which is why I brought that up.
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