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American 220V for a computer? - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Happy to help.

Yes, its absolutely feasible, but unless you're an electrician, or plan on hiring one, its as you said, impractical.

If you do decide to give it a try, I've got the perfect PSU for you: Lepa 1700W.
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post #12 of 19

Bruh, just run a new 120v circuit with a 30amp fuse/breaker.

 
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post #13 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firehawk View Post

Happy to help.

Yes, its absolutely feasible, but unless you're an electrician, or plan on hiring one, its as you said, impractical.

If you do decide to give it a try, I've got the perfect PSU for you: Lepa 1700W.

thumb.gif I'm not sure if it's that PSU or another one, but I remember seeing a review for one of the first 1600W PSUs. It was only rated for 1300W on a 110V outlet though because of how "inefficient" it was (in reality, it was 80+ Gold rated) at such high outputs.

Actually, at those kinds of power outputs, heat really becomes a concern in the PSU itself. 93% efficiency at an 850W load is 850W / 93% = 64W of waste heat. Assuming it can keep that efficiency up at a maximum load (and it can't), that's an entire processor worth of waste heat at 128W wasted when outputting 1700W to the system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PR-Imagery View Post

Bruh, just run a new 120v circuit with a 30amp fuse/breaker.

Why, is my idea garbage? tongue.gif

What about 230V + 30A breaker? That's, like, 7kW and definitely not completely unsafe. thumb.gif
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post #14 of 19

You're idea is something I've considered.

 

What's unsafe about a properly installed high current circuit? All the 110v circuits in my house are rated for 20amps, 30 for the air conditioner, and the water pump/heater have their own 30amp line.

 
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post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by PR-Imagery View Post

You're idea is something I've considered.

What's unsafe about a properly installed high current circuit? All the 110v circuits in my house are rated for 20amps, 30 for the air conditioner, and the water pump/heater have their own 30amp line.

Nothing wrong with the idea, except for 2 small details. The first being that you'll never find a plug that's rated for 30A that you can plug a power supply into. The second is that you'd still be running a new circuit from the panel, which was the main issue with the aforementioned 240V plug.

So basically, hire an electrician and your power issues will be solved....for a price.
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post #16 of 19

Not if the current wires could handle 30amps.

No need for a 30amp outlet tho and that's just a matter of using an adaptor or replacing the psu plug anyway.

 

No need for an electrician either really. Running and terminating some cable isn't at all complicated. Pretty sure Unixcorn has experience with that.

 
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post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
My most recent experience with house wiring was replacing a light fixture. It was successful, but I also ended up with fiberglass in my hand.

That insulation, uh, that wasn't foam.

So yeah, I'm sure I could do this. thumb.gif
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post #18 of 19
Gloves bruh.

Did all the rewiring in the apartment at my gran's house, not complicated at all. The main house w got an electrician cuz new conduit needed to be ran - idiot put all the ceiling lights on th same circuit..
 
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post #19 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by PR-Imagery View Post

Not if the current wires could handle 30amps.
No need for a 30amp outlet tho and that's just a matter of using an adaptor or replacing the psu plug anyway.

No need for an electrician either really. Running and terminating some cable isn't at all complicated. Pretty sure Unixcorn has experience with that.

This right here is why you need an electrician. You have people who think they understand home wiring, do the job themselves, and then do something stupid and dangerous as a result.

The entire run from start to finish needs to be able to handle the potential load. If you want to run a 30A circuit, you fuse it at 30A, the wire you run will be 10AWG (which is rated for 30A), and the plug at the other end MUST also be rated for 30A. If you put a lower rated plug on, you're creating a choke point, a point of higher resistance, a point where more heat can generate. In layman's terms, a fire hazard.

Ever wonder why plugs rated for 30A are so much bigger and heavier? Its because everything inside is built to handle the full potential of the line. A 15 or 20A plug simply can not handle that amount of energy going through it. If you want to put a lower rated plug on a higher potential circuit, you need in line fusing so it can't exceed that amount.

So now your simple solution of just running a 30A circuit got more complicated, just so that we don't accidentally set fire to CynicalUnicorn's house.

Since we're already making things complicated, let's throw out another option. We'll run a 2-pole 3 wire circuit from the panel to a sub panel in the computer room. Then you can have tons of plugs of various ratings and voltages available right there. You want a 240V plug? Done. And everything will be fused to the correct size right there in the sub panel. No fire hazards. Plenty of options. Win win in my book.
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