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Is My graphics Card getting enough power?

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
My brother pointed out in GPUz that my graphics card is receiving less than 12v at all times.

Is that an issue in any way? (defective PSU, something making contact where it shouldn't, etc)

MSI Radeon R9 390
FX 8350 @ 4.2ghz
M5A99FX PRO 2.0
16GB DDR3 Gskill TridentX Dual Channel RAM
Corsair RM1000 PSU
Cooler Master Seidon 120V

post #2 of 7
I am gonna guess that the voltage reading in gpuz is inaccurate.
It is best to check with something like a high quality multi-meter to verify the actual voltage coming out of your 12v rail.
post #3 of 7
Best way to check it accurately is within the bios.
post #4 of 7
Sory to tell you but your PSU is terrible

Why you might not want to buy a Corsair RM PSU


Ripple Suppression on the 1000 watt RM is crap

Its one of the worst 1000 watts units around
1000-1050 watts comparison thread

1000 watts is way overkill for your system anyway a 550-650 watt PSU could power your system.
Last you cant use software to read your voltages so dont bother its a waste of time.

Quote
To test your voltage, DO NOT use software voltage monitoring like SpeedFan or Everest. They are unreliable, inaccurate, and imprecise. They read sensors off your motherboard, and these sensors are not precise to being with, and are never perfectly calibrated. Furthermore, sometimes the software will read the wrong sensor. You can often see this with the -5V rail, since most PSUs don't have it. Since the software can't find the sensor reading, they'll just pick a random sensor and display that. The readings from BIOS are a bit better since you know it's the correct sensor, but the sensor itself is still imprecise and inaccurate.
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Seravee
(27 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core I7 6850K Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo WD Green WD60EZRX  WD Red WD80EFZX 8TB  Seagate Ironwolf Pro 10 TB 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingOS
LG CH12NS30 x5 Noctua NF-A14 FLX Noctua NH-D15S Windows 7 64 Bit 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus PG279Q LG 49UH750V 4K LED TV Corsair Gaming Strafe RGB EVGA SuperNova G2 750 watt 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Roccat Kone EMP Roccat Sense Metor Sennheiser HD 598 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Onkyo TX NR646  Dali Opticon Vokal x2 Dali Opticon 2 x2 Dali Opticon 1 
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post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
The BIOS reads 11.994V steady

In GPUz I did manage to get a max reading of 16v so I'm sure the latter may be inaccurate
Edited by LegendofDelza - 11/1/15 at 10:08pm
post #6 of 7
Use a multi-meter on the yellow and black wires of your pciE cable to get a true reading. Even bios isn't always right.

Your voltage of 11.75v in HW, if true, is well within spec anyways.
    
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8700k Apex X TITAN X (Pascal)  Trident Z 4400MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
750 NVMe 1.2TB EK HF/rx360/rx120 EK FC/GTs/mcp655 Windows 10 Pro  
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post #7 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

Sory to tell you but your PSU is terrible

Why you might not want to buy a Corsair RM PSU


Ripple Suppression on the 1000 watt RM is crap

Its one of the worst 1000 watts units around
1000-1050 watts comparison thread

1000 watts is way overkill for your system anyway a 550-650 watt PSU could power your system.
Last you cant use software to read your voltages so dont bother its a waste of time.

Quote
To test your voltage, DO NOT use software voltage monitoring like SpeedFan or Everest. They are unreliable, inaccurate, and imprecise. They read sensors off your motherboard, and these sensors are not precise to being with, and are never perfectly calibrated. Furthermore, sometimes the software will read the wrong sensor. You can often see this with the -5V rail, since most PSUs don't have it. Since the software can't find the sensor reading, they'll just pick a random sensor and display that. The readings from BIOS are a bit better since you know it's the correct sensor, but the sensor itself is still imprecise and inaccurate.

 

His power consumption isn't high enough to experience why the RM1000 isn't very good.

 

Anyway, LegendofDelza: software is notoriously inaccurate for reading PSU voltages. I say, just ignore what your brother pointed out (it seems to me that he doesn't know what he's talking about) and enjoy your computer. I mean, you're not having any problems, so don't even think twice about it.


Edited by TwoCables - 11/2/15 at 1:30am
It's a computer!
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It's a computer!
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Toshiba 3TB P300 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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