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3D Printed Waterfall Reservoir Concept

post #1 of 37
Thread Starter 
I have no idea if this'll work. But i'm bored and I have a bunch of 3D filament so I decided to try this.

The idea is to put a sheet of acrylic on the front and seal it with some silicon. Will obviously have to spray or coat the inside with something... Maybe epoxy.

Here's a pic. Will probably print it sometime this week. Will update.

it's a bay res. 3 Slots.
    
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post #2 of 37
Well I don't see why it wouldn't work, if you are sealing the gap of the acrylic, you should be good thumb.gif

Now the interesting thing is going to be the G 1/4 Threads rolleyes.gif with the 3D printing tongue.gif I would like to see it biggrin.gif
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post #3 of 37
Thread Starter 
Yeah that's the only thing i'm not sure about. My tap set is only metric so i'll have to figure out something there.
Could just permanently attach and seal them with silicon.
    
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post #4 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by iCrap View Post

Could just permanently attach and seal them with silicon.

Well this will most definetly work haha tongue.gif

IMHO I think in solidworks there is a easy way to add the G 1/4 Threads, but sadly i dont know how to use that software frown.gif. Being said, I do think that could be 3D printed without any issues. rolleyes.gif
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post #5 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by josepi View Post

Well this will most definetly work haha tongue.gif

IMHO I think in solidworks there is a easy way to add the G 1/4 Threads, but sadly i dont know how to use that software frown.gif. Being said, I do think that could be 3D printed without any issues. rolleyes.gif

Ah yeah your right. I found it now.
Hopefully the threads can print correctly.
    
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post #6 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by iCrap View Post

Ah yeah your right. I found it now.
Hopefully the threads can print correctly.

I wouldn't risk it. A g1/4 tap is not expensive. I got one for 6 bucks and because it only has to cut plastic it'll be fine and doesn't need to be HSS or anything. Just print the right size of smooth holes.

If you are printing it I would totally rather use an oring seal on the front. Just design in an oring groove and you can bolt the front on. Then you end up with a res you can dismantle for proper cleaning. Glued or otherwise sealed res suck major nuts.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 11/5/15 at 12:04am
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post #7 of 37
Hi guys, we have printed stuff at work before for prototype seal testing and come across the fact that fdm printing will never 100% seal, the nature of the way it is printed means there are always tiny channels through the part that will eventually leak. Our solution in the end was to get a professional 3D printing company to print using SLS and apply a pressurized waterproofing sealant.
Love the idea, just dont want to see you end up with a leaky res.
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post #8 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonyer View Post

Hi guys, we have printed stuff at work before for prototype seal testing and come across the fact that fdm printing will never 100% seal, the nature of the way it is printed means there are always tiny channels through the part that will eventually leak. Our solution in the end was to get a professional 3D printing company to print using SLS and apply a pressurized waterproofing sealant.
Love the idea, just dont want to see you end up with a leaky res.

I'm an avid scuba diver and full-time geek, and I'll say the consensus for diving applications is much the same: straight off the fdm printer it'll hold as much water as a sieve. However, an acetone brushing normally fixes that (5 minutes or so hard brushing to get the layers to melt and move followed by 30+minutes of acetone evaporating.
 
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post #9 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by victorzamora View Post

I'm an avid scuba diver and full-time geek, and I'll say the consensus for diving applications is much the same: straight off the fdm printer it'll hold as much water as a sieve. However, an acetone brushing normally fixes that (5 minutes or so hard brushing to get the layers to melt and move followed by 30+minutes of acetone evaporating.

Yea we had tried that and the evaporating does give the part a nicer finish too. Our part had some complex geometry inside it so that didnt help trying to seal, we always ended up with some bubbles creeping out of corners somewhere.
Have you used any 3D printed parts for long term submersion?
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post #10 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stonyer View Post

Yea we had tried that and the evaporating does give the part a nicer finish too. Our part had some complex geometry inside it so that didnt help trying to seal, we always ended up with some bubbles creeping out of corners somewhere.
Have you used any 3D printed parts for long term submersion?

Complex geometries certainly don't help things. As for long-term immersion, a few hours at a time and a few cycles for air-tight is the most I've seen proven.....but I've seen things immersed for considerably longer that weren't air-tight. I don't know if that answers your question, but this might: I'd be terrified of a 3D-printed reservoir but I would have zero issues embedding a 3d-printed waterfall into an acrylic reservoir.
 
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