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post #71 of 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fragamemnon View Post

Since I've encountered more or less the same issue with 2 360 top rads, I will explain what he meant by 'water fountain'. wink.gif

When he turns the pump off, the extra pressure that it generates to push the water inside and replace the air will dissipate. Which lets gravity back to its business pulling the water down. So when the pump is off, the air pocket will reform in the top rad and the water it displaces back to the res will overflow out of the fill-port which he currently has open.

OP, since you already have enough coolant to not let your pump run dry, simply turn your loop on (jump-start the PSU when it's only connected to the pump - just in case coolant spills. It will not spill using this method, but anything can happen.), unplug the fill-port, add more water to the res and seal it back.
When you do this, the air that is in your res will be replaced by the coolant you add and will end up in your room, i.e. out of the loop. This assures no pressure change in the loop, so you will be safe from a 'fountain' if you have to disassemble in the future.

Once you have filled your res to the desired level, seal the plug.

Then you are perfectly safe to shut it off and do whatever you want. smile.gif

thanks thats exactly whats going on, thanks for a tip - I will add more coolant when loop is running smile.gif
I was trying to explain in simple terms and got attacked with all the "trapped air" "bleed air out" terms which made me really confused... but later everything was explained
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post #72 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by snaf2k View Post

thanks thats exactly whats going on, thanks for a tip - I will add more coolant when loop is running smile.gif
I was trying to explain in simple terms and got attacked with all the "trapped air" "bleed air out" terms which made me really confused... but later everything was explained

Having air stuck in your rad is synonym to having air trapped in it. smile.gif It is trapped, hence stuck there and it can't get out.

Nevertheless, you should appreciate advice given by senior members here, and if you do not understand something, do not dismiss it - simply ask for a simpler explanation.
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post #73 of 77
Part of the problem is that the reservoir needs to have a drop tube if using a top inlet. Without one air is free to travel from the res up to the top rad and coolant flows down into the res, even allowing the res to overflow. With a drop tube an air lock is created as long as the res level is above the bottom of the drop tube, so the res will not over flow even with the top port open.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

Edit: Sorry, seems this was already covered, though if there is a drop tube on the inlet its very hard to see.

A tip for bleeding the air from your loop / fully filling it ... stoping and starting the the pump is normally much more effective at moving air from all the places in the loop to the res than just letting the pump run. Be sure to have the pump at full speed too because the VRM cooling section on that motherboard uses very narrow tubing so is very restrictive to flow rates.
Edited by Jakusonfire - 11/10/15 at 6:26am
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post #74 of 77
My question pertains to your top return line from the top radiator to the reservoir; how long is it? and does it connect to the top reservoir or the bottom, aka in between the pump & reservoir?
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post #75 of 77
The solution for this problem is simple: the return path of the water to the res should exit into the res lower than the place you fill the res from, and the water level in the res should stay above the place the water enters it. Usually the water comes in at the bottom of the res and this isn't an issue, but you have your res upsidown.

Your setup will work properly and remove air from the loop as long as you have that (internal) tube attached to the place that the water come in from the rad, and you keep the water level above the bottom of that tube. This means that the effective size of the res is determined by how long that tube is, because of the way you've installed the res in your system. You should be able to get longer tubes to put in to it if you feel the need to, or just keep it filled up all the way to the top.

You won't get the fountain effect you fear with that (internal) tube in place, just fill the res to the top, cap it, let the pump run for a bit until the water level goes down to ALMOST the bottom of the tube, then top it up and cap it and repeat etc until the water level doesn't change more than a 1/4 inch or so.
Edited by VeritronX - 11/10/15 at 6:43am
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post #76 of 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by VeritronX View Post

The solution for this problem is simple: the return path of the water to the res should exit into the res lower than the place you fill the res from, and the water level in the res should stay above the place the water enters it. Usually the water comes in at the bottom of the res and this isn't an issue, but you have your res upsidown.

Your setup will work properly and remove air from the loop as long as you have that tube attached to the place that the water come in from the rad, and you keep the water level above the bottom of that tube.

Yes, that is right.
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post #77 of 77
Another note, while the cooling system is working now to some degree, you're making the pump work harder and the air in the top rad is blocking it's ability to cool the water.. it's like having a car that can drive but half of it's engine isn't working.
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