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Thermaltake Core P5 Owners' Club - Page 265

post #2641 of 2759
Quote:
Originally Posted by nCode View Post

After you fill your loop and leak test, your next step is to bleed the loop(to get the air bubbles out).
To do this, you need to tilt/rock your PC case in every direction. Front to back and side to side. Don't be shy here as it may be necessary to go almost 90 degree tilt or more to get all the air out. No need to be gentle, if your loop is installed properly, then it can take the rocking you will be doing. After you have rocked it, turn on the pump and let it run for about a minute(no need to be exact here) then turn the pump off and rock it again.This is how you work all those air bubbles out. Repeat the process until you have worked most of the larger air bubbles out. You will still be left with micro bubbles that you can see in your reservoir. Don't worry about them as it will take a few days for them to fully dissipate. Just make sure you get the large bubbles out and you should be fine.
Welcome to the world of Liquid cooling.

Before I can answer your questions about filling + draining. I need to know some things first

1) Where are you filling the loop now? from the looks of it, your reservoir does not have a multi port top so maybe you are filling from the top of the Radiator?

2) What were your initial plans for draining? If you got a port on the bottom of that rad. I would suggest to put the drain there. Go get yourself a "ball valve" or" QDC" or a combination of the two. Also another fitting to attach a tube after the Valve or QDC (I suggest a barb fitting and soft tubing so you can flex it into a bucket easily)

3) From the looks of the pictures, you might be going about your leak test the wrong way. I see too many cables connected to the motherboard. When you are doing the leak test, only the pump should be connected to the power supply. Everything else (GPU, SSD/HDD, etc) should be unplugged, nothing should be connected to the motherboard. Even the 24pin ATX main should not be connected to the mobo. Grab yourself a paper clip and jump pin 16 and 17 to create power to the pump. You can also buy a jump start connector for cheep but a paper clip will do just fine. (if you cant find a paper clip some wire will do). If you don't know what pins I am referring too, here is a pinout for reference.


reply back here and either myself or another forum member can assist you further. Good luck

I actually do have a question.. I haven't leaked tested my system in a year and I've forgotten exactly how I did it with my pump and the whole paper clip thing. As far as I remember I left everything plugged in minus the gpu? Because how are my rads/pump going to run if I unplug everything? They are plugged into my mother board
post #2642 of 2759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpina 7 View Post

I actually do have a question.. I haven't leaked tested my system in a year and I've forgotten exactly how I did it with my pump and the whole paper clip thing. As far as I remember I left everything plugged in minus the gpu? Because how are my rads/pump going to run if I unplug everything? They are plugged into my mother board

Only the pump will be connected to the power supply. The paper clip tricks the PSU into thinking it is connected to the motherboard so power can be supplied to the pump. You should also remove the pump's 4pin fan connector from the mobo (I find the pump does not pump as fast as its suppose to when doing your fill/leak test) at least for my PWM EK pump that is the case

The main reason you want to disconnect everything else is that should you happen to spring a leak, no power is being supplied to your other components to get fried. Water and electrical components don't mix when there is the presence of electricity biggrin.gif. It turns an otherwise disastrous (and expansive) situation into a quick paper towel fix.
Edited by nCode - 4/29/17 at 11:10am
post #2643 of 2759
Ohhhhh ok... now I remember . Haha thanks man, brain fart.

So literally nothing needs to be plugged up o the mother board not even the 12v ... and just leave the 2 pumps plugged up to the power supply . Easy peasy.

Thank bro
post #2644 of 2759
Yes everything comes off. Even the 12v at the top of the motherboard. Only the pump's Molex connection will be connected to the PSU. Then you use the paperclip to jump the 2 pins I mentioned on the 24pin ATX main.

If you have a Modular power supply, you can just disconnect everything from it other then the one going to the molex connection for the pump. That should make it easier then trying to get your hands behind each connection around the case. You also leave the 24pin connected to the power supply and disconnect that one from the motherboard and jump the pins
Edited by nCode - 4/29/17 at 11:20am
post #2645 of 2759
repped. thank you sir
post #2646 of 2759
Quote:
Originally Posted by nCode View Post

After you fill your loop and leak test, your next step is to bleed the loop(to get the air bubbles out).
To do this, you need to tilt/rock your PC case in every direction. Front to back and side to side. Don't be shy here as it may be necessary to go almost 90 degree tilt or more to get all the air out. No need to be gentle, if your loop is installed properly, then it can take the rocking you will be doing. After you have rocked it, turn on the pump and let it run for about a minute(no need to be exact here) then turn the pump off and rock it again.This is how you work all those air bubbles out. Repeat the process until you have worked most of the larger air bubbles out. You will still be left with micro bubbles that you can see in your reservoir. Don't worry about them as it will take a few days for them to fully dissipate. Just make sure you get the large bubbles out and you should be fine.
Welcome to the world of Liquid cooling.

Before I can answer your questions about filling + draining. I need to know some things first

1) Where are you filling the loop now? from the looks of it, your reservoir does not have a multi port top so maybe you are filling from the top of the Radiator?

2) What were your initial plans for draining? If you got a port on the bottom of that rad. I would suggest to put the drain there. Go get yourself a "ball valve" or" QDC" or a combination of the two. Also another fitting to attach a tube after the Valve or QDC (I suggest a barb fitting and soft tubing so you can flex it into a bucket easily)

3) From the looks of the pictures, you might be going about your leak test the wrong way. I see too many cables connected to the motherboard. When you are doing the leak test, only the pump should be connected to the power supply. Everything else (GPU, SSD/HDD, etc) should be unplugged, nothing should be connected to the motherboard. Even the 24pin ATX main should not be connected to the mobo. Grab yourself a paper clip and jump pin 16 and 17 to create power to the pump. You can also buy a jump start connector for cheep but a paper clip will do just fine. (if you cant find a paper clip some wire will do). If you don't know what pins I am referring too, here is a pinout for reference.


reply back here and either myself or another forum member can assist you further. Good luck

1) Yes, I'm doing it using one of the reservoir's top ports.
2) The reservoir does not have any port on the bottom so my plan was to add an extension/valve at the reservoir (right side port) and turn down the case to drain.
3) Don't panic, red cables are just extensions I was testing for eye candy only biggrin.gif There's nothing connected but PSU (paperclip trick) to power DDC bomb.

So, there's nothing wrong with my actual loop then? I'll try to get rid of the bubbles this weekend and hopefully finish the system.

More pics will come, stay tunned!
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post #2647 of 2759
I had mentioned I wanted to attach my PS4 to the back of my P5 to give this an all-in-one gaming device sort of feel, so I got the Forza Designs wall mount and HideIt controller mounts and did just that. Drilled some holes, replaced the screws with some nuts and bolts, and presto.

I'm still playing with where the controllers will be mounted. Here I've velcroed them in my preferred spots but where you see the red controller for PC may not be feasible once GPU and tubes are in place. The "armor" on this board was clutch here because I would not have been able to stick the velcro strips if it were a model without it. If there ends up being enough space, I'll have to keep the velcro on the front but on the back for the PS4 controller mount I'll use nuts and bolts. If there ends up not being enough space, I may put them on either side of the case about mid-way up and there I can use nuts and bolts for both mounts. We'll see.

I really like the look. It saves space and will motivate me to play some more PS4. I hadn't turned it on in over a year until today.





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post #2648 of 2759
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forenaits View Post

1) Yes, I'm doing it using one of the reservoir's top ports.
2) The reservoir does not have any port on the bottom so my plan was to add an extension/valve at the reservoir (right side port) and turn down the case to drain.
3) Don't panic, red cables are just extensions I was testing for eye candy only biggrin.gif There's nothing connected but PSU (paperclip trick) to power DDC bomb.

So, there's nothing wrong with my actual loop then? I'll try to get rid of the bubbles this weekend and hopefully finish the system.

More pics will come, stay tunned!

OK cool, you had me worried for a set on the red cables. upon closer inspection of the picture I can see that nothing is connected to the modular PSU other then what should be for testing.

No, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with your loop and will work as it should.

Correct me if I am wrong, Your answer to my first & second questions has me a bit confused. Are you filling from the top of the Reservoir or the Radiator?
post #2649 of 2759
Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicsWhore View Post

I had mentioned I wanted to attach my PS4 to the back of my P5 to give this an all-in-one gaming device sort of feel, so I got the Forza Designs wall mount and HideIt controller mounts and did just that. Drilled some holes, replaced the screws with some nuts and bolts, and presto.

I'm still playing with where the controllers will be mounted. Here I've velcroed them in my preferred spots but where you see the red controller for PC may not be feasible once GPU and tubes are in place. The "armor" on this board was clutch here because I would not have been able to stick the velcro strips if it were a model without it. If there ends up being enough space, I'll have to keep the velcro on the front but on the back for the PS4 controller mount I'll use nuts and bolts. If there ends up not being enough space, I may put them on either side of the case about mid-way up and there I can use nuts and bolts for both mounts. We'll see.

I really like the look. It saves space and will motivate me to play some more PS4. I hadn't turned it on in over a year until today.






Looking good. I am curious as to how you got the I/O shield attached. I have a ROG Maximus VIII Formula and haven't thought of a way to attach the I/O shield. All these ROG Mobo's have the plastic shrouds on everything and the shields were conventionally designed to wedge between a case's back panel and the mobo which the P5 doesn't have. Whats your secret?
post #2650 of 2759
Quote:
Originally Posted by nCode View Post

Looking good. I am curious as to how you got the I/O shield attached. I have a ROG Maximus VIII Formula and haven't thought of a way to attach the I/O shield. All these ROG Mobo's have the plastic shrouds on everything and the shields were conventionally designed to wedge between a case's back panel and the mobo which the P5 doesn't have. Whats your secret?
I kinda like your idea with the ps4! Good job smile.gif

As for shroud i for one dont use it at all! smile.gif
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