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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 14

post #131 of 1640
Thread Starter 
yea, there is a lot of insulation needed to prevent condensation from forming, what I am going to do is use the eraser putty to fill in all the little gaps in between the wire and tubes that are running through the chest, then I will coat that in flex seal, to seal it to the chest, then I will put about two inches of clay on top of that.
I will also put about a 1/8 inch coating of the eraser around all the tubes, reservoir, pumps, and the CPU blocks, that are on the outside of the chest, for the cold side of the TEC's, then I will cover all of that with about two inches of clay as well to insolate the cold side of the system that is on the out side of the chest, in the hope that I do not get condensation forming on any of it.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 1/23/16 at 8:14pm
post #132 of 1640
Thread Starter 
so I have decided to take the time to remove the raised section of the water blocks base and polish the base flat.
http://imgur.com/a/LrggS


I will be using a flat stone, and yes it is a precision crafted stone.
as well as some 600 grit sandpaper, 1200 grit sand paper and a polishing towel.
when I am done the entire base will be flat and it will have a mirror finish on it.
post #133 of 1640
Thread Starter 
Test Stuff still have a few things coming but it will get done.
http://imgur.com/a/ZI3VT



here is the right size of tubing for the flow meter 3/4"ID

tubing that is twice the size for what the flow meter was designed for 1 1/2"ID



and tubing that is half the size for what the flow meter was designed for 3/8"ID
post #134 of 1640
Thread Starter 
http://www.1728.org/flowrate.htm

this makes it easy to do the math for this experiment, of how fluid velocity effects a mechanical rotameter flow meter.

and I will demonstrate this as well.

to give a quick break down of what I am going to be demonstrating I am going to connect different sized tubing to a rotameter but I will maintain the same flow rate for the system each time.

this is how that works out mathematically

this rotameter is designed to have .75" tubing piped to it, and because of this the rotameter only understands a certain range of fluid velocities, and they are from 4.6 centimeters per second to 40.9 centimeters per second, this is shown on the rotameter as flow rates from .8LPM to 7LPM.

for .75" ID tubing
and with the system having a flow rate of 3LPM
the fluid velocity of the system is
17.5CPS and this rotameter will read
3LPM at this fluid velocity

when I attach 1.5" ID tubing to the system
and with the system having a flow rate of 3LPM
the fluid velocity of the system is
4.3CPS so the flow indicator on the rotermeter
will not move from the bottom of the rotameter
because this fluid velocity is below its understanding.

when I attach .375" ID tubing to the system
and with the system having a flow rate of 3LPM
the fluid velocity of the system is
70.1CPM so the flow indicator on the rotameter
will be all the way at the top of the rotameter
because this fluid velocity is above its understanding

I will also have a larger rotameter to show that the size of the meter does not matter and I will also show why the little black knob on the flow meter will not fix the issue of having the wrong size tubing piped to the rotameter.
post #135 of 1640
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

Yeah I think you need to insulate the pumps for the cold side. Once it condensiates the pcb circuit on the pump will slowly die.
So covered in clay should be good insulation thumb.gif

I wounder if clay is conductive or compacitive. Probally want to check that out too with a multi meter.

If he uses a 655/d5 he only has to insulate the tubing. It won't hurt the pump.
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post #136 of 1640
Also don't use clay for the tubing, it will be a messy, heavy, expensive mess.

Snag come 1/2" armaflex tubing insulation, that's what it's made for! I used it with black duct tape at every termination and it works great. If you want to be super overkill, rub the tubing down with a coating of dielectric grease to make sure the insulation seals against the tube with no air. Don't use too much though since it will ruin the adhesive on the armaflex wrap if it gets on the seal.
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post #137 of 1640
^^this

Listen to Puck.. he knows smile.gif

Also, have you read Technogiants adventures with sealed/vacuum/propane chambers? Interesting reading.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1346823/subambient-full-submersion-phase-change-cooled-pc/0_50


Did you solve the "leaking" wires issue?
Because there is also the posibility to use special designed bulkhead "pass-thru" ports/connectors ... they have been designed to be leakfree for high-altitude/space usage and for deepsea exploration

To simplify : they have been designed so you can plug in an USB key to the OUTSIDE of a Space Shuttle or Bathysphere ... smile.gif
Ok, usb key is not true, but that is the general idea/principle of these bulkhead ports/connectors ... to provide leakfree connections in extreme hi or low pressure differences
Edited by RnRollie - 2/2/16 at 4:05am
post #138 of 1640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

^^this

Listen to Puck.. he knows smile.gif

Also, have you read Technogiants adventures with sealed/vacuum/propane chambers? Interesting reading.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1346823/subambient-full-submersion-phase-change-cooled-pc/0_50


Did you solve the "leaking" wires issue?
Because there is also the posibility to use special designed bulkhead "pass-thru" ports/connectors ... they have been designed to be leakfree for high-altitude/space usage and for deepsea exploration

To simplify : they have been designed so you can plug in an USB key to the OUTSIDE of a Space Shuttle or Bathysphere ... smile.gif
Ok, usb key is not true, but that is the general idea/principle of these bulkhead ports/connectors ... to provide leakfree connections in extreme hi or low pressure differences
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thick8 View Post

It's used as a wire welding gas as well to eliminate oxidization of the weld. Pretty easy to get.
The problem isn't the the space between the cable and the box. It's between the strands of the wires themselves. Ideally you would want each wire to be a single (thicker) strand wire where it enters the box. Depending on how many wires you have running into the box this could be a PITA. It might even be overkill but my wife says that's my middle name.




ok I have really thought about what I think you are asking here.
how do I seal up the trouble spots in the wire to get the chamber to hold a vacuum?
as I stated I only had two spots in my test build that gave me any trouble but this is exactly what I did to fix the leak.
to find the leak for me was easy, I smoke so all I did was blow smoke in the area I thought might be leaking and watch to see where the smoke was being sucked into.
there where two bad wires crimps where the wire attached to the pin inside the connector so I removed the pin from the connector soldered the end of the wire to the pin, by doing this I basically made the end of that wire a solid core wire at the end of it. I put the pin back into the connector and resealed the end of the connector with flex seal.

to seal most of the wire in the connectors was also easy for me, I will try to explain this process the best I can.
ok I have two 1/4 turn valves on my vacuum pump so that I can adjust the amount of suction I put onto any chamber.
when I first went to seal the connectors I had adjusted the valves so that there was a constant vacuum on the chamber but not much, as it was sucking air in from all over the place.
understand the holes that we are talking about here are like .001 in size I could literality seal a hole that size with a drop of oil, true the constant vacuum would eventually pull the oil all the way through the wire and I would be left with the same issue of it leaking, but it would seal it for a short time.
so as I sprayed the flex seal onto the connectors the amount of vacuum on the chamber would rise, and I would adjust my valves to lower the amount of suction as I finished the last connector, the vacuum on the chamber shot way up, so I turned the vacuum pump off and released all the vacuum that was on the chamber, then I let it set for 3 days to make sure the flex seal was dry.
so to summarize I used the vacuum to suck some liquid rubber up in between all the little strands of wire.
it did not work perfectly, but it did seal up most of them right off.
post #139 of 1640
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puck View Post

Also don't use clay for the tubing, it will be a messy, heavy, expensive mess.

Snag come 1/2" armaflex tubing insulation, that's what it's made for! I used it with black duct tape at every termination and it works great. If you want to be super overkill, rub the tubing down with a coating of dielectric grease to make sure the insulation seals against the tube with no air. Don't use too much though since it will ruin the adhesive on the armaflex wrap if it gets on the seal.

ok so how thick do I need to keep 0C lines from creating condensation?
with the clay its about 2" thick to prevent any condensation, should I be considering like the 2 1/8" X 1/2"?
or will I just need to play around with it?
sorry for the 20 questions.
post #140 of 1640
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

ok so how thick do I need to keep 0C lines from creating condensation?
with the clay its about 2" thick to prevent any condensation, should I be considering like the 2 1/8" X 1/2"?
or will I just need to play around with it?
sorry for the 20 questions.

Armaflex does not transfer cold like clay does, so doesn't need to be nearly as thick to prevent surface condensation. The tube wrap I used was probably around 1/2" thick and insulated my tubing with 0c coolant for over a year 24/7 on my main rig. I have some left so can measure or get a part number for you if you need it. I got it at home depot for like $5-$6 for 6ft.

Keep in mind that even though it has super sticky adhesive, it doesn't like to make super tight turns without seperating on the seams. I used some black duct tape on any bends that it starting bulging on and also on the end of every piece to seal it. This is a crappy pic, but you can see how much cleaner it is then trying to use other insulation methods.

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