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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 17

post #161 of 1668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

I was reading this from the beginning and I apologize if this has been covered somewhere along the way but ... is the point of the vacuum to remove all water vapor and thus not have to wrap the cold pipes and cover the socket with a moisture barrier?

yes, well at least not the stuff inside the chest.
I will still need insulation on all the cold side of the water loop located on the outside of the chest.
post #162 of 1668
Thread Starter 
well I still need the two radiators,(will get them next month) but here is how they will be placed for this build.


http://imgur.com/a/DVV4T
post #163 of 1668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

Small aquarium heater perhaps?
I was looking at them, and at pond deicers.
there are a few pond deicers and bird bath heaters that heat the water to 38C.
http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-C-50-Aluminum-Birdbath/dp/B0002DHBDY/ref=pd_sim_86_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41ijlzv0RNL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR135%2C160_&refRID=1M77C7W2911380NB992S

http://www.amazon.com/Manufacturing-Thermal-Bowl-Granite-Gallon-Watts/dp/B0002H3T2W/ref=pd_sim_86_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=41ai4pMLreL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1YJ5KWEZH89XWPRJGACZ

heated bowl is a idea to, but I don't know how much, or how hot I need it to be?
post #164 of 1668
Thread Starter 
what I noticed with the test build was this I hope I can explain this right.

ok the TEC's are capable of a 70C change in temp and with nothing on the cold side they get a 65C change to the water putting the water at -35C and the hot side water stayed at 30C
with a load on the cold side things changed drastically.
the cold side water held at 0C
and the hot side water held at 40C
this is my theory on why
1 I lost about 10C of coldness in the process of cooling the water.
2 I lost about another 10C of coldness because of the higher hot side water temps.
3 I lost about another 10C of coldness because of the heat from the CPU being dumped into the cold side of the water loop.
for a total of about 35C of coldness being lost.
and this is the reason that the water on the cold side would hold at 0C with a load on the system.
my hope is that I can keep this ratio consistent with the larger system.
post #165 of 1668
Thread Starter 
so how did I get the CPU blocks sanded down and flat?

the final process that seems to work well is this.
I start with a belt sander, which has 130 grit belt on it, and hold the block as flat as I can to it, I can only sand this way for about 80 seconds at a time before the block gets hot. so it takes me about 8 hours to sand the block down with the belt sander.
then I use 320 grit sand paper on the flat stone and hand sand the block for another 8 hours until the block is actually flat.
then I use 800 grit sand paper on the flat stone and hand sand the block for another 4 hours until the block is ready to be polished.
this I use a polishing bit for a drill and some Brasso for about 30 minutes until the block is polished.
it takes awhile but I have 3 done now, and only 3 left to go.
post #166 of 1668
Refer to your data sheet, the more delta of hot cold side, the less cooling there will be, you can do a calculatiuon roughly find out how much watts you got.



http://www.wellentech.com/products.html (Tec1-12726)
The maximum coolign you can get is 232.5W. That is at full volts and at zero delta,

At larger deltas your getting even less cooling, Most TEC have same effecenty curve, so if you can't find a data sheet for yours, use another 127XX data sheet curve and do some calculations
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 2/26/16 at 1:29pm
post #167 of 1668
Thread Starter 
right, so I cant change the amount of heat being dumped into the cold side water by the components.

but I can try to improve on the amount of loss I have during the conversion of the coldness, from the TEC to the water.

and I can try to keep the hot side of the TEC's cooler.

other than that, I don't know how to make the system more efficient or cooler.
post #168 of 1668
To make the system colder, Take away your resivors, Have zero resivors and less piping length, Out side of the vaccum, have insulation for all cold side, cover it with tissues or what ever, that would help to get 1 or 2C colder temps.
Have a small resvior and to help the pumps get rid of air bubbles if reqired

Large resvior or any radiators will act as a cold radator, coolign the cold away. Same as radator cooling heat
This will decrease the losses of the cold

You have a flow meter right? Full speeds means cold is being radiated away, you would want to adjust for enough pump pressure to run at colder temps -35C
And adjust for enough flow to have a good balance between heat transfer and cold losses due. Less pump speed means the colder you water will be

Another way to get more chill, Is simplly use more TEC, more power usage means more cooling.
Just like a car engine, swap that 1000CC for a 8000CC, bore it up get 2000CC on a 1000CC engine

Since you are having great deltas, undervolting will not help effecnty, At large deltas full volts can go up to 70C delta and have only slightly less effecnty than at undervoltages
Great deltas means full volts operation is required, 12V is already full volts
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 2/26/16 at 1:41pm
post #169 of 1668
Thread Starter 
after reading through a few threads, I started thinking even though the DYI reservoirs are inside the ice chest it might be a good idea to insulate them anyway, to try and help eliminate some of the radiated loss of coldness that happens in this way. I will probably insulate the 3-way connecting tubing on top and bottom of the reservoirs, but not the section of tubing going from the bottom of the reservoirs to the bottom GPU block, or the section of tubing going from the bottom of the GPU block to the outside of the ice chest.

ok so is 6 X 360mm radiators enough for this build?

well here is how I look at it, two 360mm radiators where able to keep the hot side of one TEC with a load on the cold side at 40C.
I have three TEC's and I would like to keep my hot side at 40C or below, with a load on the cold side, so I am guessing that I will need six 360mm radiators to do that.

another way that I look at it is I have at least 900 watts of TEC heat that needs to be dissipated, as well at the clocks I plan to run this system at there is another 900 watts of heat that needs to be dissipated, that's 1800 watts total. I have at least 1800 watts worth of water cooling potential, in the hopes that it is enough to dissipate the 1800 watts of heat that is being generated.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 2/28/16 at 7:45am
post #170 of 1668
Thread Starter 
(Tec1-12726)
The maximum cooling you can get is 232.5W. That is at full volts and at zero delta,

that is what they call it 12726, but the one's I have are a little stronger than 232.5W

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Peltier-Thermoelectric-TEC-Cooler-50mm-410-Watt-USA-QUALITY-50mm-TEC/281904411699?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35006%26meid%3Daccd12a64983450bad64d979e965f22a%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D281880518717
Edited by toolmaker03 - 2/28/16 at 8:21am
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