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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 3

post #21 of 1661
Thread Starter 
correct, on my test build I did not have a humidity gage in the chest, so after I sealed the chest, I used flex seal to seal around all the wire and the wire connections on the out side for the chest.
once the chest was capable of holding a vacuum, I started the water loops and turned on the TEC, I had a small camera in the chest, and as soon as the water got cold, ice started to form on the tubes inside the chest, so I turned the TEC off and tried again after a few days, same thing, but I noticed that it was not as thick, so I turned the TEC off, and tried again a few days later, in all it took 10 days before I could run cold water through the chest without ice forming on the tubes.
I found out later that by placing desi packs in the chest I could cut that time in half.
the point is, that once I got the humidity in the chest low enough that ice would not form on the tubes, it did not return, as long as I did not open the chest, or allow it to return to standard atmospheric pressure.

I will have a humidity gage in the this build so that I can see when the humidity is low enough to start the system, and so that I can track the humidity level to see if it ever will return.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 1/6/16 at 8:18am
post #22 of 1661
Thread Starter 
i have not considered exchanging gasses, as i do not have the equipment for that, but it should work, many companies use nitrogen as a purge gas for there vacuum chambers.
post #23 of 1661
all interesting stuff, I like the idea behind it, especially the replacement of oxygen with nitrogen to prevent a vacuum pulling in atmospheric air. I find it a bit overcomplicated but if you already have a vacuum pump and the ability to charge it with another gas then why not.

I had assumed with the less than ideal sealing it would still have some atmosphere inside the case to be moved around by the fans that's why I suggested using the chiller rad/fan still. If you can successfully pull this down to levels where it is actually in a state of vacuum like in a A/C system then that is ideal, even better if you can charge it with nitrogen to keep oxygen out.

With a rad/fan to chill the air, the internal pressure of the chill box will be lower than atmospheric pressure, so there is the potential for ambient air to be sucked in if your sealing job isn't perfect. Perhaps this is why orthello has gone to such great lengths to get the best seal possible, but I can see now that the vacuum and charge with nitrogen may actually be superior to just a straight chill box. Is it necessary, perhaps not, is it worth doing, by all means if you have the wherewithall to do it with the tools you have on hand
post #24 of 1661
It's used as a wire welding gas as well to eliminate oxidization of the weld. Pretty easy to get.
The problem isn't the the space between the cable and the box. It's between the strands of the wires themselves. Ideally you would want each wire to be a single (thicker) strand wire where it enters the box. Depending on how many wires you have running into the box this could be a PITA. It might even be overkill but my wife says that's my middle name.

I might have to look into more wireless components. Heck, if a person had the funds the only thing needing to go though the wall of the box would be the evaprator hoses and the power cord.
Edited by Thick8 - 1/4/16 at 5:48pm
post #25 of 1661
Thread Starter 
yea, i know, that is why i had to seal the wire connections on the outside of the chest, all those little leaks add up quick tongue.gif
and bradded wire thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif impossible to seal around, in the end i had to strip all the bradding off the wire to get it to seal. biggrin.gif
on the plus side it did make buying wire for the build a lot cheaper, because no one wants the standard wire anymore.
post #26 of 1661
he's talking about the stranded wire inside the insulating layer on outside of wire, solid copper core wire is less likely to leach air in/out than stranded wire. No off the shelf PSU cable kits have solid copper core, you'd have to make some short adaptors to run through the case wall. there was a case mod years ago where a guy used solid copper round bars about 2mm diameter and put heat shrink over the top of it for solid wiring, it was awesome, and it would work perfectly here. He soldered it to the standard connectors and bent the round bar as he needed. For this application you;d just need a short run long enough to get through the case wall with a connector soldered to each side, this will be the easiest to seal. I'll try to dig up the thread for a better explanation.


EDIT 2: Here it is, same builder, bottom of first post details it perfectly http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=1038989
EDIT: this is not the build I was thinking of and isn't done as neatly and doesn't use heat shrink, but its the same idea. use solid copper round bar, use heat shrink over the whole length to insulate it, and solder it to the pins (preferably still using the stock connectors) and you have an easily sealed wire. http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=254614&page=5
Edited by LiamG6 - 1/4/16 at 6:39pm
post #27 of 1661
Thread Starter 
wow, no i did not go that far, the most i had to do was solder two of the wires right at the connector because of bad wiring to begin with, then I resealed the connector with some flex seal it fix the leaking issue so i did not take it any further. but i would imagine this would work better with less possibility of failure.
looks to be a good upgrade for the build
thanks.
the only wires currently that are solid core wire, are the wire extensions for the connections that go to the 20 pin connector on the motherboard, that connector is for the power switch, reset switch, the power and HHD LED's, and now the switch connected to the CLR CMOS pins.
the rest of them are made with stranded wire.
I could remake all the wire extensions with solid core wire, man that would be a lot of work.
but something to consider, if I have a wire that just will not seal up.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 1/4/16 at 6:50pm
post #28 of 1661
Just a quick tip. If you want to make your thread a lot more compelling you should upload the pictures to OCN so they show up on your posts. Just click this button here:



It is way more interesting/easier to read when every post isn't a wall of text
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PNY Optima 240GB SSD Samsung 830 64GB SSD Custom Watercooling Loop Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 
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Lenovo Ll2323swA 24" 1920x1080 Dell E2414H 24" 1920x1080 Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum  Cooler Master Real Power Pro 1000W 
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post #29 of 1661
Thread Starter 
i have few options with imgur as a image provider, but i am really not into paying some site to hold my pics for me so i deal with it i could post the image but i have been told that they blow out the screen when loading tongue.gif
but i will have a album up when it is finished.
hopefully it will not be as ugly as my test build.
post #30 of 1661
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

i have few options with imgur as a image provider, but i am really not into paying some site to hold my pics for me so i deal with it i could post the image but i have been told that they blow out the screen when loading tongue.gif
but i will have a album up when it is finished.
hopefully it will not be as ugly as my test build.

Uploading to OCN is free, the images are limited to fairly small sizes as well until clicked (when clicked they enlarge to the images size or to a percentage of the persons screen size). So there should not be a problem with blowing out screens. If you check out almost every log you can see what a difference having visible images can make.
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Intel i5 6600K @ 4.65GHz 1.328v MSI Z170A Gaming M7 GTX 970 4GB FTW @ 1502Mhz CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
PNY Optima 240GB SSD Samsung 830 64GB SSD Custom Watercooling Loop Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 
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Lenovo Ll2323swA 24" 1920x1080 Dell E2414H 24" 1920x1080 Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum  Cooler Master Real Power Pro 1000W 
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Intel i5 6600K @ 4.65GHz 1.328v MSI Z170A Gaming M7 GTX 970 4GB FTW @ 1502Mhz CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
PNY Optima 240GB SSD Samsung 830 64GB SSD Custom Watercooling Loop Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 
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Lenovo Ll2323swA 24" 1920x1080 Dell E2414H 24" 1920x1080 Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum  Cooler Master Real Power Pro 1000W 
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