Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Specialized Cooling › Peltiers / TEC › TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 26

post #251 of 1668
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Puck View Post

Coming along well!
Don't let a lack of replies ever dissuade you - this is a low traffic forum due to the nature of this type of cooling, but I can promise you that people are reading and enjoying this thread, even if they don't reply smile.gif.

well for me this is the largest build that I have ever tried, and this will be the furthest, I will ever go, as far as a cooling solution.
I may upgrade it from time to time, but I wont ever build any thing stronger, or capable of going colder.
I gave myself 6 months to a year to finish, but my driving force to get it done faster, is being able to play video games on this rig.
that is the whole reason I water cool my computers, why I overclock my hardware, it's not for the work it takes to get there, or the time and patience it takes to learn everything needed to get it done right.
no, it's so that I can play that next video game at super high settings without it jittering on me biggrin.gif
Edited by toolmaker03 - 3/20/16 at 9:35am
post #252 of 1668
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

Well. This build is so fancy I can't afford to use the same ammount of.money on cooling . Very nice

neither could I, don't forget that I had a lot of this build sitting in a box, this is stuff that I have had for years, like the CPU coolers, the electrical boxes, the switches, the relays, 3 of the power supplies, all of the bay devices, 4 of the radiators and the fan setups for all 6, most of the fittings, two of the water pumps, and the PC system itself. what I am trying to get at, is that this is 20 years worth of stuff that I have gotten for one reason or another, then I gathered it all up one day, just after I bought all 6 of the CPU blocks for my Xmas present to my self.
I have been planning this project for a good 7 years, and really putting forth effort toward it's completion for 4 years, meaning buying stuff for this build here and there. when I got down to the last $1000 needed to complete the build is when I started posting about it.

if I had to go out and get all of this today, there is no way that I could do that.
post #253 of 1668
Thread Starter 
ok, so why do I try to find links to all the stuff that I have for this build?
the answer is so that if someone wanted to duplicate this build, it would be easer for them to find the products used, or products with similar capabilities.
most of the items I am using for this build, I have found on sale somewhere, over the years that I have been planning this build or other builds that I have done. when I find something I want for a build on sale, I get it, even if that build is still 4 or 5 years from completion.
I have patience, I have waited for 5 years to get a good TV at a decent price. I just keep looking once a month until I eventually find it for a good price.
for instance the CPU blocks for this build, are $50+ water blocks normally, but I found them for $19.99 at performance PC this past December.
if you wait long enough, almost everything goes on sale somewhere.
well that Is how I was able to afford this build, I didn't pay full price for any of it. tongue.gif
Edited by toolmaker03 - 3/19/16 at 9:07am
post #254 of 1668
Thread Starter 
ok so I have been playing around with a few ideas on how to insulate the outside of the ice chest.
I thought of using clay but that would take like 60lbs of clay to cover the whole ice chest and that I think is a little ridicules, but doable.
I have considered using A/C line foam insulation taped to the ice chest and wrapping that in plastic wrap.
I also thought I could use great stuff and cover the whole chest this would be the fastest way of doing it but would also be the ugliest. rolleyes.gif
so I am guessing that there are a few other ways I could go about doing this?
well I will keep thinking on this until, I get to actually needing it.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 3/20/16 at 9:32am
post #255 of 1668
Thread Starter 
ok I have finished the last CPU block and I am starting to assemble the TEC assembly my arm is so happy that this section of the build is done all of that hand sanding was really starting to wear on me lachen.gif
post #256 of 1668
Thread Starter 
with the TEC assembly build, there are a few little things that are going into this build, in a effort to make it a little more capable of withstanding the cold temps.
ok, so as I finished each CPU water block I would open the block up an use RTV sealant around the rubber O-ring to give it some protection from the cold it was not needed for the hot side water blocks but I did it any way. for the fittings that will connect all the blocks to each other I will be using gas Teflon tape with RTV sealant on all the O-rings for the cold side of the assembly. I will not be using the RTV sealant or the Teflon tape on the hot side fittings. this is a time consuming process, but I am doing it to ensure that I do not have a leak on the cold side of the water loop. the cold side water pumps will be connected directly to the bottom of the TEC assembly with fittings the soft copper tubing will connect to the other ends of the pumps. there will be one pump before the TEC assembly and one pump after the TEC assembly on the cold side of the water loop.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 3/20/16 at 8:31am
post #257 of 1668
Thread Starter 
the clay, as I have shown it is multi-colored clay, but I will try to put a single color on the out side of each section, any suggestions on what color I should use for the TEC assembly?
I was thinking of using the gray as the outer color here.
I am going to make the clay 2" thick for now, and add to it as needed to prevent condensation from forming on the clay.
why am I using clay?
its because I like the idea of being able to make it as thick as necessary for the build, and that appeals to me. I like the idea of being able to remove it and reshape it for changes that may occur at a later time on this build. it is easy to apply, and easy to remove, and I don't have to keep going out to get more, every time I want to make a change to the build.
post #258 of 1668
Thread Starter 
I totally forgot about the eraser putty, the eraser putty is easy to forget about because you cant see it. the eraser putty is being applied before the clay the eraser putty will only be a 1/8" of an inch thick, but will be covering everything that the clay does. the reason I like the eraser putty is because it is really easy to form, and it is even easer to remove than the clay, so it makes a good thin layer of material to apply the clay on top of, you cant see the eraser putty, but it is there, and I think that it will make the build a little easier with it there.
post #259 of 1668
Thread Starter 
so this is a high flow system, because of the parallel nature of its design. I am positive that the flow rates on both the hot side and the cold side water loops will be between 6LPM and 9LPM. I am hoping, that it will be closer to the 9LPM, but I will be happy with 6LPM.
post #260 of 1668
Thread Starter 

ok so what do I have here?
I will start at the bottom and work my way up.
on the bottom I have the PC power and reset switch.
the next one up is the cold side water temp display and the CLR CMOS switch.
the top is the cold side water flow rate display.
they will be mounted right beside the TEC switches.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Peltiers / TEC
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Specialized Cooling › Peltiers / TEC › TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log