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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 4

post #31 of 1654
Thread Starter 
thanks, I did not even know what that button was for thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlastshotx View Post

Just a quick tip. If you want to make your thread a lot more compelling you should upload the pictures to OCN so they show up on your posts. Just click this button here:



It is way more interesting/easier to read when every post isn't a wall of text

or most of the others for that matter doh.gif
post #32 of 1654
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thick8 View Post

The issue might be that you're not pumping it long enough to remove all of the vapor. I was a mechanic for a lot of years and have read on many occasions that, to make sure you get complete evacuation of an A/C system, you need to leave the pump run for at least 3 hours. There was scientific data backing up the reasoning. I can only assume it would be the case with what we're doing.

I'm still in the design phase of my chiller box. I have all the "stuff". Now I just have to enclose it. I was thinking of replacing the evacuated air from the box with nitrogen gas. That way outside air won't be sucked into it like I stated above. My thinking is that if the inside and outside of the box are of equal pressure then there is less likelihood of the gasses exchanging places.

I agree that I am lengthening that amount of time it would take to dry the chamber by only running the pump for 3 minutes at a time but I also do not know what kind of a effect a prolonged dynamic vacuum would have on the atmosphere inside the chamber.

let me give a example of what I mean, for a science experiment with my kids, I showed them how if I put a cup of water in a glass top vacuum chamber, and left the pump on for 2 hours, that I could freeze the water at room temps.(the temps inside the chamber are a little lower than the outside temps but not by much)

and yes the water does freeze at room temps, but I cant really say that what is freezing in the cup is actually water any more, as all the gases have been pulled out of it at that point, so I would not recommend drinking the water after doing this to it. I don't know what exactly has happened at the molecular level to the water, but I do understand that the constant vacuum changed the freezing point of the liquid.

so my fear is that if I try to dry the chamber too fast, I might end up frosting it instead.
post #33 of 1654
You want to vacuum the chamber before it gets cold. The idea is to lower the boiling point of the water so that it will vaporize (phase change) at room temperature (76F). This is very different then humidity which is water droplets being suspended in the atmosphere. If you cool the chamber below room temperature prior to applying the vacuum then you are not getting the phase change you desire. Also, you're not changing the composition of the water. It will be H2O regardless of the temperature and therefore safe to drink. Ideally you want the chamber warm (> 80F) when you vacuum it. Leaving the vacuum unit on for 3 hours insures that all of the H2O will vaporize and be drawn out of the chamber.
Some of the issues with this are of course the leaks at the cables which will allow humid air to be draw into the chamber. As your chamber will hold a vacuum for 3 days says that this is not that big of an issue for you. Putting an A/C recovery machine's desiccant bag (found online or at an auto supply store) in the chamber will remove whatever minuscule amount of moisture that was draw in during the vacuuming process. Another possible issue is that the hoses may not be able to handle a 0 atmosphere state. They should, but keep an eye on them when you vacuum out the chamber.
And of course don't leave your chamber in a vacuum (fill it with nitrogen) because it will be drawing in humid air through the leaks and all of your hard work will have been for naught.

EDIT: Did you notice in your experiment, that before the water froze, it boiled?
Edited by Thick8 - 1/5/16 at 10:54am
post #34 of 1654
Thread Starter 
oh yea it was, I thought of it more like the air being pulled out of the water rather than it boiling.
the industrial systems I have worked on had the ability to heat the inside walls of the vacuum chamber, so when they did a chamber dry it was rather quick.
but I can see how if I had that ability I could dry the chamber in one go, but my chamber is a ice chest and the cheap plastic it is made of will not handle much of a heater in there.
not to mention that space is tight already.
I will look into replacing the air with a gas, where do you get the nitrogen tanks that you use for welding?
are they compatible with a A/C fill hose setup?
post #35 of 1654
We get all of our gasses from a company called AIR/GAS here in SC. I think the smallest tank they have is 5 gallons. Any automotive shop or welding shop can tell you who they use in your area. Bars also use nitrogen for Guinness beer on tap. If you have a favorite watering hole they might let you have/use one smile.gif

I think Argon and helium would work as well. Although helium would probably leak out too quickly. So it looks like argon or nitrogen.

Oh yea, some shops have nitrogen tire fill tanks. It was the rage not long ago. you could fill up a bicycle inner tube with some and take it home to fill your chamber. Use a new one because it hasn't had any air in it yet so there would be no risk of contamination.

You could get a larger inner tube from a tire store so you can have a greater amount of nitrogen at your disposal.
Edited by Thick8 - 1/5/16 at 11:50am
post #36 of 1654
Thread Starter 
http://imgur.com/a/aMdKK


ok so here is some of the stuff I am working on.
the type of wire going through the chest.
the tubing on the cold side.
and the frames for all the hardware.
post #37 of 1654
Thread Starter 
I got taps today, I can start building stuff.
post #38 of 1654
Thread Starter 
http://imgur.com/o0fadSi


how I drilled, taped and sealed each connection
post #39 of 1654
Well really. You can just insulate your componments fully.
Simply use the tec to get some subzero and your good to go.

With two gpu and once CPU I'm just wounder about your peltier performance. I doubt it woun't be enough for you to get a constant 15C below ambient.

I have a build with 720W+ of power draw from peltiers and I only get 20-25C below ambient maximum at IDLE (Single CPU OC loop). Water temps on hot loop is only 5-7C above room temp
Yours is only 540w worth of power draw (12*45)

I'm seeing some ideas of the vaccum chamber filled with liquid nitrogen. Just make sure its not too cold for your stuff. It will cold bug on you

Anyways This build seems very very extreme and I'm looking foward to it thumb.gif
Ln2 temps 24/7 biggrin.gif Extreme overclocking thumb.gif
Good on you for going extrme cooling
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 1/6/16 at 9:10pm
post #40 of 1654
Thread Starter 
well this is how I figured it but I might be off a little so I am kind of making the build modular.
ok so right now my system produces about 700W of heat to be removed by the standard water cooling system with the CPU and 2 X GPU's
CPU at 4Ghz
GPU's at 850Mhz

after I clock them further to 5Ghz on the CPU and 930Mhz on the GPU's I am thinking it will produce about 900W of heat to be removed.
so I have 3 X 410W TEC's running at 13.7V 20A and about 300W's each for a total of 900W worth of TEC cooling power. Then I have 1800W's worth of water cooling to cool the hot side of the TEC.
http://i.imgur.com/2jz6HJi.jpg

hope I did it right anyway.
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