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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 33

post #321 of 1657
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

I'm sorry, but it's going to take me some time to come to terms with 40lbs of clay being used in a build. smile.gif
well if it helps the TEC assembly only has 15LBS on it after the gray and white, and the pumps will only take maybe 8LBS, same goes for the ice chest, so in reality about 32LBS. on the build biggrin.gif
post #322 of 1657
Thread Starter 
gray and white
http://imgur.com/a/Ntvt7

post #323 of 1657
Thread Starter 
the TEC assembly is now installed onto the table top.

the white area is where I will be playing with the thickness of the clay to prevent any freezing.



I know that there is a point where the radiated heat from the hot side of the TEC's will be enough to just warm the surface of the clay.

but for exactly where the transition point is I will have to figure that out. rolleyes.gif

by chance, does anyone out there happen to know where that point is?
Edited by toolmaker03 - 3/28/16 at 10:17pm
post #324 of 1657
Does it matter?
Its covered with clay so chances are its not going to drip water and I think thats what you want to acheive and you already achived it
If it does drip then why not just cover it with cloths much easier
Quote:
I know that there is a point where the radiated heat from the hot side of the TEC's will be enough to just warm the surface of the clay.

but for exactly where the transition point is I will have to figure that out. rolleyes.gif

by chance, does anyone out there happen to know where that point is?
post #325 of 1657
its variable i guess, load/performance depended
the TEC maker should have this listed somewhere... If we are talkign about the TEC itself "leaking" hot to the cold side or vice-versa

As far as leakage from block to block is concerned , thats why ceramic plates are used between blocks anywhere there are no TECs and thus it occurs mostly through the bolts holding the blocks together smile.gif

I'm wondering if the "leakage" info is available from Ultrasonics' site http://thermo-electric-cooling.com/ , http://tecpeltier.com/


I'm also wondering if everything has been thoroughly leak tested before you started putting clay onto it... also, all this manipulation can put some strain on revolving fittings, actually causing them to leak.
Edited by RnRollie - 3/29/16 at 5:21am
post #326 of 1657
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

Does it matter?
Its covered with clay so chances are its not going to drip water and I think thats what you want to acheive and you already achived it
If it does drip then why not just cover it with cloths much easier
http://imgur.com/a/SjBtH




well, yea, it does kind of matter, I built this whole section with the air coolers, to form a evaporator for the water that will form in the white clay area on the TEC assembly.

but you are also correct as well, if I cant get the thickness of the clay correct in the white area of the TEC assembly, to work the way that I have planed it out to work, than some cloth to capture the moisture, that does form on the white clay, will work fine.
post #327 of 1657
Thread Starter 
so I am thinking of using a little plastic wrap on top of the clay, to help keep some of the dust off of the clay, what do you guys think?
post #328 of 1657
Thread Starter 
ok so I did not go the entire 2" in thickness for the clay that I thought I would, the final thickness that I stopped at is only 1 1/4" thick, I stopped because I felt like this would be enough, I have nothing to back that opinion up, but its what I did.
post #329 of 1657
Thread Starter 
ok so I really do like the clay as a method for insolating the cold side of the water loop.
one, the clay gets harder or less pliable the colder it gets.
two, its adjustable, meaning I can make it thicker wherever I need to, or even make it thinner.(I will be playing with the thickness until I get it right)
three, I can change the loop around, and reuse the clay to reinsulate whatever I need to.
the clay is really user friendly for this kind of build, on my test build I spent hours cutting and fitting foam, to insolate stuff. by the time I cut the foam off something to get at it the foam was no longer useable. I had to cut and fit more foam. I got tired of that loop real quick.
well that's my reasoning anyway I hope it works as well as I think it does.
post #330 of 1657
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

its variable i guess, load/performance depended
the TEC maker should have this listed somewhere... If we are talkign about the TEC itself "leaking" hot to the cold side or vice-versa

As far as leakage from block to block is concerned , thats why ceramic plates are used between blocks anywhere there are no TECs and thus it occurs mostly through the bolts holding the blocks together smile.gif

I'm wondering if the "leakage" info is available from Ultrasonics' site http://thermo-electric-cooling.com/ , http://tecpeltier.com/


I'm also wondering if everything has been thoroughly leak tested before you started putting clay onto it... also, all this manipulation can put some strain on revolving fittings, actually causing them to leak.

yes I will have to play with the thickness of the clay in the transition area from the hot side to the cold side of the TEC, to limit the amount of leakage from the cold side to the hot side, or vise versa if I put too much clay on.

I have a Schroder valve and I have been leak testing the build with air, I cap one end and attach the valve to the other end than I use a tire cap with a pressure read on the top of it, so I just tighten it down onto the Schroder valve after I fill the section with air that I am checking for leaks. thumb.gif.
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