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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 37

post #361 of 1654
Thread Starter 
yes I have the power LED and the HDD led they are part of the power switch and reset switch but I did not list them as I consider the led as part of the switch.

as for a mic, yes, that would be a good added cable to the run, thanks.
post #362 of 1654
Thread Starter 
I am also adding 2 more 8 pin power cables to the build so that I could add video cards in the future that need three power cables each.
post #363 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwilly View Post

I read the first couple pages and find the idea intriguing; as for your desire to eliminate condensation have you thought about dry nitrogen? We used to use it in the thermal sights on the M60A3 to keep the gun sight from fogging up on the inside, you would need a chamber cable of creating and holding a vacuum then charge it with dry nitrogen, although now that I think about it more you might have issues with coolant osmosis in your soft lines. maybe just toss a bag of desiccant in the box.

If we use nitrogen, We don't have to refill nitorgen but the amdibent will be cold, due to using nitrogen?
post #364 of 1654
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwilly View Post

I read the first couple pages and find the idea intriguing; as for your desire to eliminate condensation have you thought about dry nitrogen? We used to use it in the thermal sights on the M60A3 to keep the gun sight from fogging up on the inside, you would need a chamber cable of creating and holding a vacuum then charge it with dry nitrogen, although now that I think about it more you might have issues with coolant osmosis in your soft lines. maybe just toss a bag of desiccant in the box.

I am filling the bottom of the ice chest with desi-packs, but as far as a gas exchange, I may go there at some point, if I can keep the nitrogen inside the ice chest without leakage, but for now the only cost involved in keeping the ice chest under vacuum, is the electricity it cost to run the vacuum pump for 3 minutes a day. that's pretty cheap, so that is why I have not really put forth much effort, to setting the system up for doing a gas exchange.
post #365 of 1654
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

I am filling the bottom of the ice chest with desi-packs, but as far as a gas exchange, I may go there at some point, if I can keep the nitrogen inside the ice chest without leakage, but for now the only cost involved in keeping the ice chest under vacuum, is the electricity it cost to run the vacuum pump for 3 minutes a day. that's pretty cheap, so that is why I have not really put forth much effort, to setting the system up for doing a gas exchange.

Not sure you could ever get an ice chest that tight, the military has cans it uses for long term storage, 2 pods with a flange and rubber gasket held together by many bolts around the perimeter, they came in all sizes or maybe an old ammo can, I have one big enough to house a PC always thought about making a rig out of it.
Pa's Puter
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 i930@4.2ghz. Gigabyte EX58-UD4P EVGA GTX 970 FTW + GSkill DDR3-1600 12 gig 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung Evo SSD  DVDROM EK supreme HF Cu gold plated/ XSPC 480 Windows 7 Pro. 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 27EA63 IPS monitor merc stealth Corsair TX850 Corsair 700D 
MouseMouse PadAudio
logitech G5 Rocketfish dual surface Creative Xfx extreme and Zalman 5.1 headphones 
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Pa's Puter
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 i930@4.2ghz. Gigabyte EX58-UD4P EVGA GTX 970 FTW + GSkill DDR3-1600 12 gig 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung Evo SSD  DVDROM EK supreme HF Cu gold plated/ XSPC 480 Windows 7 Pro. 64 bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 27EA63 IPS monitor merc stealth Corsair TX850 Corsair 700D 
MouseMouse PadAudio
logitech G5 Rocketfish dual surface Creative Xfx extreme and Zalman 5.1 headphones 
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post #366 of 1654
Thread Starter 
I would like ideas, to what else I might need to be adding to the wire trunk line that will be going through the ice chest?

I have 8 usb 2.0 extensions
2 usb 3.0 extensions
2 mobo CPU power 8 pin connectors
1 mobo power 24 pin connector
mobo power switch
mobo reset switch
mobo CLR CMOS switch
6 8 pin video power connectors
1 cat6 cable
2 audio cable
4 SATAIII cables
1 20 pin mobo usb 3.0 extension
1 mobo usb 2.0 extension
2 DVI video extensions
post #367 of 1654
Thread Starter 
so I have ordered the rest of the cable extensions needed for this build they will all be here by may 7.
I still have plenty of work to do on this build until then so I will finish the build shortly after all the wire is here.
I hope that I have accounted for everything this time biggrin.gif
Edited by toolmaker03 - 4/5/16 at 9:21pm
post #368 of 1654
Thread Starter 
ok, so I do have a few other builds not listed because they are standard air cooled desktop computers, I get one about every 4 years to see what a normal computer is like, it's depressing. redface.gif
there fine if I want to play flash games, or even some older games, but anything new, forget it. there just too slow for me. so I am back to playing PS3 games. redface.gif
better than nothing I guess. tongue.gif I will get a PS4, when the PS5 comes out, I am not really a fan of consoles. rolleyes.gif but I do like FF games, a lot. so I will play FF XV. biggrin.gif
post #369 of 1654
you know you dont HAVE to run a cable through... there are special male-male bulk head connectors (solid pins, double isolated, square, rounded, rectangular) for this kind of applications. you would only have to wire the cables INSIDE the box to the corresponding female connector. And for the OUTSIDE you also have to wire a similar cable, split into whatever you want.

This would deal with any capillary creep/leakage you get when using woven wire/cables and you're able to mount these bulkhead connectors wherever suits you best.
post #370 of 1654
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

you know you dont HAVE to run a cable through... there are special male-male bulk head connectors (solid pins, double isolated, square, rounded, rectangular) for this kind of applications. you would only have to wire the cables INSIDE the box to the corresponding female connector. And for the OUTSIDE you also have to wire a similar cable, split into whatever you want.

This would deal with any capillary creep/leakage you get when using woven wire/cables and you're able to mount these bulkhead connectors wherever suits you best.

very true, but please consider that if I where to break the trunk line down to all the individual wires, there would be around 300 wires, so that would be around 600 solder points, that I would have to solder, and they all would need to be almost perfect solder connections for the connector to work, those connecting pins for the wire are very close to each other, and if its a crappie soldering job, the wire will ground to each other, or I will not be able to get the connector back together. also consider that the military has a solder machine, that does a perfect solder 99% of the time, every time.

but if I have a connector that will not seal up, I will use a set of these type of connectors to fix the issue.
Edited by toolmaker03 - 4/6/16 at 9:46am
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