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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 38

post #371 of 1668
true of course

also true.. the same people that sell the bulkhead connector also sell conversion cables... like USB to BUS-Pin4to18 etc ... so you would not have to solder ALL by yourself... you can opt for a mix, part diy, part off the shelve..... Although i admit... its not getting any cheaper going that route. redface.gif
Just imagine the (similar) problems that NASA had to solve before launching the first manned mission smile.gif

As for military 99% accuracy - that IS a small miracle, since most military contracts are won by the lowest bidder... except for those few with a very powerful lobby presence in DC/Pentagon tongue.gif
post #372 of 1668
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

very true, but please consider that if I where to break the trunk line down to all the individual wires, there would be around 300 wires, so that would be around 600 solder points, that I would have to solder, and they all would need to be almost perfect solder connections for the connector to work, those connecting pins for the wire are very close to each other, and if its a crappie soldering job, the wire will ground to each other, or I will not be able to get the connector back together. also consider that the military has a solder machine, that does a perfect solder 99% of the time, every time.

but if I have a connector that will not seal up, I will use a set of these type of connectors to fix the issue.

Having served in the military and having repaired a similar plug on the rear deck of an M60 tank I can say that we did not use a special machine to solder the connections, the pins can be removed from the plug and soldered one at a time, easy no, time consuming yes, this is not something you would want to do with a 10 dollar soldering iron from Radio shack.
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post #373 of 1668
How about a Thunderbolt io splitter?

*edit*
What i mean by that is something like one of these;
http://m.thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-thunderbolt-dock/

One cable out (thunderbolt) into a "dock" which then splits the signal into a number of different in/out-puts
Edited by storm-83 - 4/7/16 at 7:49pm
post #374 of 1668
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

for me, this is the scary part, once the hole has been drilled, the wire run through it, and the epoxy laid, there is no changing it. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Scary indeed! That epoxy is super picky in its mixture. You nearly have to get it exactly 50/50 and mixed VERY thoroughly for it to cure correctly. I recommend weighing out the ingredients separately before combining. I'm sure you have used it more than I. Just a thought from previous escapades with that exact kind of epoxy. I can't wait to see how all the components fit inside!
Edited by bajer29 - 4/7/16 at 10:06am
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post #375 of 1668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bajer29 View Post

Scary indeed! That epoxy is super picky in it's mixture. You nearly have to get it exactly 50/50 for it to cure correctly. I recommend weighing out the ingredients separately before combining. I'm sure you have used it more than I. Just a thought from previous escapades with that exact kind of epoxy. I can't wait to see how all the components fit inside!

thanks for the update on the epoxy, and with that good bit of information, I will be very critical on how I measure and mix this stuff.
that will be a big help.
not poring until may 7th, when the rest of the wire shows up.

by then, the build will literally, be down to the wire. biggrin.gif
post #376 of 1668
I will be interested to see how you get the epoxy to fill in between all of the wiring so you can hold a vacuum. I think it's going to be a lot of work but that's why I'm watching this and not doing it I suppose. I think there will be some leak through the stranded wiring as well but it's hard to tell how much. You're going to have quite the fat bundled of stranded cables though from the looks of things.
post #377 of 1668
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

I will be interested to see how you get the epoxy to fill in between all of the wiring so you can hold a vacuum. I think it's going to be a lot of work but that's why I'm watching this and not doing it I suppose. I think there will be some leak through the stranded wiring as well but it's hard to tell how much. You're going to have quite the fat bundled of stranded cables though from the looks of things.

Maybe applying the epoxy while the chamber is in a vacuum state thus pulling the liquid epoxy in or adding acetone to the mix to thin the epoxy out a little, we used to do this for wood repairs on boats.
You would need to verify that this brand of epoxy is safe to be mixed with a thinner of any kind
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post #378 of 1668
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by slickwilly View Post

Maybe applying the epoxy while the chamber is in a vacuum state thus pulling the liquid epoxy in or adding acetone to the mix to thin the epoxy out a little, we used to do this for wood repairs on boats.
You would need to verify that this brand of epoxy is safe to be mixed with a thinner of any kind

this is what I will be doing to the connectors themselves

how do I seal up the trouble spots in the wire to get the chamber to hold a vacuum?
as I stated I only had two spots in my test build that gave me any trouble but this is exactly what I did to fix the leak.
to find the leak for me was easy, I smoke so all I did was blow smoke in the area I thought might be leaking and watch to see where the smoke was being sucked into.
there where two bad wires crimps where the wire attached to the pin inside the connector so I removed the pin from the connector soldered the end of the wire to the pin, by doing this I basically made the end of that wire a solid core wire at the end of it. I put the pin back into the connector and resealed the end of the connector with flex seal.

to seal most of the wire in the connectors was also easy for me, I will try to explain this process the best I can.
ok I have two 1/4 turn valves on my vacuum pump so that I can adjust the amount of suction I put onto any chamber.
when I first went to seal the connectors I had adjusted the valves so that there was a constant vacuum on the chamber but not much, as it was sucking air in from all over the place.
understand the holes that we are talking about here are like .001 in size I could literality seal a hole that size with a drop of oil, true the constant vacuum would eventually pull the oil all the way through the wire and I would be left with the same issue of it leaking, but it would seal it for a short time.
so as I sprayed the flex seal onto the connectors the amount of vacuum on the chamber would rise, and I would adjust my valves to lower the amount of suction as I finished the last connector, the vacuum on the chamber shot way up, so I turned the vacuum pump off and released all the vacuum that was on the chamber, then I let it set for 3 days to make sure the flex seal was dry.
so to summarize I used the vacuum to suck some liquid rubber up in between all the little strands of wire.
it did not work perfectly, but it did seal up most of them right off.
post #379 of 1668
Thread Starter 
now I do like the idea of using some kind of epoxy, instead of the flex seal, as I do want this final build to be stronger than the test build was.
post #380 of 1668
Thread Starter 
ok, so how to keep the antifreeze thin while it is cold?

here is what I am doing right now, I have my freezer set to 18F that is -8C, I have 5 bottles of a antifreeze mix in the freezer, one is 70% antifreeze 30% water, one is 70% antifreeze 30% wetter water, one is 70% antifreeze 20% wetter water 10% water, one is 60% antifreeze 30% wetter water 10% water, one is 60% antifreeze 40% wetter water.
it is my hope that I will have one that is still as thin as it would be at room temperature, or at least close to.

I will continue this type of experimentation until I find a mix that works.
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