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TEC Chill Box Chamber Build log - Page 7

post #61 of 1677
Thread Starter 
yes it is for the cold side.
all three of them are going to be inside of the chest.
post #62 of 1677
For wires I have heard of a good trick.

Get a peace of tubing to fit the wires inside of.

with the wires inside, plug one end temporarily with something like foam or tissue paper.

Fill the other end with PVA glue until full. Let it set.

Remove the tissue paper/foam.

Ull be left with a almost perfectly round tube to which u can make a nice hole for in the enclosure and seal around. The wires will be packed together with PVA and should be well sealed.

Of course u don't have to use PVA, u can use some other sealant so long as it is runny enough /self levelling.
Edited by SolarNova - 1/10/16 at 3:58pm
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Stryker LGA 2011
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post #63 of 1677
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SolarNova View Post

For wires I have heard of a good trick.

Get a peace of tubing to fit the wires inside of.

with the wires inside, plug one end temporarily with something like foam or tissue paper.

Fill the other end with PVA glue until full. Let it set.

Remove the tissue paper/foam.

Ull be left with a almost perfectly round tube to which u can make a nice hole for in the enclosure and seal around. The wires will be packed together with PVA and should be well sealed.

Of course u don't have to use PVA, u can use some other sealant so long as it is runny enough /self levelling.

wow, that is a good idea, I am using a large nut to get the hole size for all wire, I keep getting a larger nut until I can get all of the wire and tubes to go through the nut, my thinking is that if it cant all go though the nut, than I wont be able to get it to go through the hole I cut in the chest. I could make a tube to match the inside diameter of the nut, so that I could do this and make the hole plug so to speak.
thanks.
post #64 of 1677
Thread Starter 

ok so I drilled out the fill ports for the reservoirs and started to make the aqua pipes, I have drilled and tapped the plastic for the aqua pipes, but I still need to grind the plastic to a round shape, and make it the same shape as the lid, the lid is a dome shape, so I will dome the plastic as well, to the same shape as the lid, so that it seats flat, and it will make it easier to epoxy the plastic to the lid.
http://imgur.com/a/KYw0K
Edited by toolmaker03 - 1/10/16 at 8:07pm
post #65 of 1677
Love this thread, can't wait to see it finished.

If you have issues with that sealant, I recommend "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. I used it on the thin "china wall" on my race motor between the intake and block. Resists almost all fluids, vibration, and has a huge temperature range. When the delrin top of my block started leaking at the G1/4 port I used it to seal the threads on my barbs and it held up to 0c ethanol/distilled mix with no problem.
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post #66 of 1677
Thread Starter 
the right stuff, well I looked at, I like the idea of spraying it out of a can, I am not a painter so any little bit helps, it seems to be about the same stuff that I using now, but if this stuff leaks at cold temps, then I will try it out.
post #67 of 1677
For selant I reckon silicone glue is really good. Its water proof and will ahesive to plastic and metal. It should also provide quite a really tough bond.

Silicone glue is my number once choice when I want to bond stuff that needs to be waterproof.
post #68 of 1677
Thread Starter 
ok so for the next section that I will be putting together it is the electrical system for the TEC's
this is how I will have my TEC's wired for this rig, I will have the TEC attached to a relay, the relay is controlled by a switch, and then it is connected to the power supply.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Peltier-Thermoelectric-TEC-Cool...
http://www.amazon.com/Relay-Harness-Bosch-Style-40AMP-H...
http://www.amazon.com/HOT-SYSTEM-ON-OFF-Rocker-Motorcyc...
http://www.amazon.com/PowerMax-PM3-45-Amp-Power-Supply/...
so why am I using a relay in the circuit for my TEC?
the answer is because in my test build, my TEC was wired directly to my power supply, and every time I would turn it on the power supply, the TEC would make a snapping sound, this sound is not good for the TEC, or the power supply, but with the relay in the circuit, it provides enough of a delay in how the load is given to the TEC, that it does not make the snapping sound anymore.
post #69 of 1677
Thread Starter 
ok so I have a question I see in a lot of the operational TEC and chiller builds they have some sort of device that controls the amount of the duty cycle given to the TEC or chiller based on the relative humidity and the ambient air temp.
while this seems to be the norm I wonder what it is there using?
and what does something like that cost to make or is it a product that one buys and wires into the circuit?
post #70 of 1677
you can make one from an arduino if you have some basic electronics and a decent bit of programming knowledge.

I bought an off the shelf one from ebay for about USD$45 that was designed for TEC's to cool optical lasers etc, its very good, but it doesn't have any control based on humidity readings, just a set temp point and it will keep it there. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231704893134?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It can use anything from 7 to 25v DC and up to 20a, unfortunately my latest 669w Thermonamic TEC pulls too much amps at 12v during start up and my controller can't handle it, I'll have to modify it with a schottky diode to shunt the power directly to the TEC when it exceeds 20a and then when it drops to running amps of ~18.4a it will revert to running through the controller. It works pretty well for me but of course still have to fully insulate if you are setting a temp that is possibly going to be below dew point on occasion as I am, I just wanted to use it for power saving during PC idle time more than anything, as it stands I'm running the 669w TEC at 12v constantly now and my insulation is working fine to prevent any condensation from shorting anything out when it gets very cold during idle periods and then subsequently warms up to about 9*c during load.
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