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Is this fan controller legit? - Page 2

post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

What happens if the gauge of the wire is too small?
Too small a wire makes the wire a fuse .. wire burns itself up before burnng equipment biggrin.gif


Too thin, and the wire becomes a filament, like the old incandescent electric light bulbs had in the "old days." Gets bright, hot enough to combust, then burns in the air. Whee!

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post #12 of 20
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Originally Posted by ehume View Post


Too thin, and the wire becomes a filament, like the old incandescent electric light bulbs had in the "old days." Gets bright, hot enough to combust, then burns in the air. Whee!
I think "fusible link" is better analogy the ""filament" is. tongue.gif



But either way there is plenty of heat .. and often things glow brightly.

Bot only the fusible link properly follows Lucas smoke laws.
post #13 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehume View Post


Too thin, and the wire becomes a filament, like the old incandescent electric light bulbs had in the "old days." Gets bright, hot enough to combust, then burns in the air. Whee!

Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

I think "fusible link" is better analogy the ""filament" is. tongue.gif



But either way there is plenty of heat .. and often things glow brightly.

Bot only the fusible link properly follows Lucas smoke laws.

Woah! Alright, good to know thanks. It would be awesome if this fan controller is actually rated for 2A at 12V. That's the exact voltage and current my Swiftech 655-B runs at. I've been running it off of my Lamptron FC-5V2, a 30W/channel 5.25" fan controller. You guys think it will run with this cheapo one? If not, what modifications do I need to accomplish to keep it from blowing up?
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post #14 of 20
Working as an electrician nad electrical engineer we never loaded a component at more than 80% of what it was rated for. And the ratings on everything we used (motors, fans,etc like in the big HVAC units on commercial buildings) were all maximums based on full load at start-up .. which is usually 3-4 times as much as the maximum load when in use. Even doing this we had to put delay start timers on the units to stagger their startup over a period of several minutes because if too many were starting at same time they would draw too much power, lower the voltage and trip the breakers. Computer fans and pumps maximum load specs are often running load, not start-up load. wink.gif
post #15 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Working as an electrician nad electrical engineer we never loaded a component at more than 80% of what it was rated for. And the ratings on everything we used (motors, fans,etc like in the big HVAC units on commercial buildings) were all maximums based on full load at start-up .. which is usually 3-4 times as much as the maximum load when in use. Even doing this we had to put delay start timers on the units to stagger their startup over a period of several minutes because if too many were starting at same time they would draw too much power, lower the voltage and trip the breakers. Computer fans and pumps maximum load specs are often running load, not start-up load. wink.gif

You're saying my pump won't run at 2A all the time, only at the start-up?
Edited by xNiNELiVES - 1/2/16 at 7:26pm
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post #16 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

You're saying my pump won't run at 2A all the time, only at the start-up?
I'm saying running a 2a load on a 2a rated source is running on the edge. 999% of the time you will be fine. Do you want to gamble on that 1 in 1000 chance it can overload the source?

Or would it make more sense to have your 2A pump controlled by a 2.5A source .. with only a 1 in 1000000 chance it can overload the source?

Do you run your car engine at its maximum rpm all the time .. as in running the engine at 6000rpm which is it's redline?

If you weight 150 pounds would you hang over a cliff on a rope with a maximum load rating of 150 pounds?
I wouldn't.
If a little bird flies up an lands on your head, your weight is more than rope's rating, rope breaks and down you go.

I would want require the rope have a rating of at least 200 pounds.biggrin.gif
That way even if an eagle lands on my head I'm still safe. biggrin.gif

Electrical load ratings work the same way.

Running a 2A load on a 2A rated source is running it at the maximum load it can function at. Anything (even the slightest blip of additional load) and it is overloaded.

Running a 2A load on a 2.5A rated source means if something weird happens and you load goes up to say 2.1A or 2.2A the source can handle it no problem.
Edited by doyll - 1/3/16 at 8:23am
post #17 of 20
Always a leave 25% head room for overload capacity try not to exceed 75% max lead life ur house hold distro panel. or you could put an inline fuse holder with a 2a blow, provided you can find a low voltage fast acting fuse rated for 12volts.
post #18 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by i2CY View Post

Always a leave 25% head room for overload capacity try not to exceed 75% max lead life ur house hold distro panel. or you could put an inline fuse holder with a 2a blow, provided you can find a low voltage fast acting fuse rated for 12volts.
You are contradicting yourself. biggrin.gif
A 2a fuse will blow the same time the controller does.

25% headroom is extreme. (100A load on 125A breaker)
10% is realistic. (90A load on a 100A breaker.)

I've done a lot of commercial / industrial wiring. Always allowed 10% margin.
Never 25%.

After all if a motor is rated18A, and we put it on a 20A breaker with 10 other 20A breakers in a 220A sub panel with 220A breaker. that is 10% margin on each, or 20% from sub pannel to motor.

And if that sub panel is fed by a main panel with similar 10% ...
Edited by doyll - 1/3/16 at 8:51am
post #19 of 20
Thread Starter 
OK so it is definitely a no go. Again, is there a modification I could do to safely get it to work? I'm ready to make my own fan controller at this point. I know people have.
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post #20 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

Somebody else recommended this to me. Unfortunately the NZXT Grid only has 30W in total power. Per channel that is only 5W or .417A. I mean I could split each channel but I'm trying to control whole radiators at a time... I might have to concede and use this.

Actual their is no per channel Watt. You can put all 30W in one channel if you want. as long as you stay 30W or below you will be fine.

If your willing to spend the extra money this is the best fan controller you get: http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aquaero-6-xt-blue-usb-fan-controller-graphic-lcd-touch-control-ir-remote-control.html

it's 30W per channel x 4 Channels.

I currently use NZXT Grid for my case fans and All my watercooling components are plugged into Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT.
Edited by Revan654 - 2/13/16 at 6:00pm
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