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Paracord cable comparison for G303 + rattling DIY fix - Page 3

post #21 of 58
because interference
i have no idea whether it's a significant issue though. but the thing that makes me slightly uncomfortable is that whether it is an issue is not always easily discernable; it's not like the cable either works perfectly or doesn't work at all. it could be that a small amount of interference corrupts every 20th packet or so and causes them to be resent. i don't know usb well enough to say these things with certainty, but probably it's reasonable to suggest that if you do make a diy cable for your mouse, you should make the white and green wires into a twisted pair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dzivoder View Post

Also, cutting the braid using scalpel is delicate and boring process and plastic cable support needed to be cut very precisely to fit into mouse housing.
took me a good 30min tongue.gif
yea, the strain relief, after some cutting, fits well into the g100s but not so well into the g303.
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post #22 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by qsxcv View Post

guess i was wrong.
i'm still slightly concerned by the lack of shielding though

Well I have done this mod twice and have yet to see any issues.

If there is anything measurable you're probably our best bet to find it out with your knowledge and utilities. tongue.gif
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post #23 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by c0dy View Post

Well I have done this mod twice and have yet to see any issues.

same here, after 8 month of usage.
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post #24 of 58
Alright so I pretty much botched the mouse kind of. It still works but meh. So I tried to get the wiring to stay inside of the shell and get the shrinkwrap to tighten on the exit of the sleeve but just ended up melting some of the shell. (all the buttons still work however)

I had it 'kind of good' at one point but tried to go and make it perfect and ended up ruining it. The wire seems to be ok but I had to knife off both of the heatshrinks. I'd say to ceesa the best way to solve this would to somehow get some type of rubber around the loose cables at the end which would make it much easier to plug in and make it so the cables don't come out of the mouse. The heatshrink was probably the way to DIY but it was fairly hard. I did manage to bend the wires to all fit in the shell.

So I think I'm just going to buy a new g303 and re-try it but this time use electrical tape on the end to force the sleeve onto the wires so they don't come out.. not really sure if it's going to work
post #25 of 58
I've found taping the sensor made both of my g303s slow and sluggish when compared to my g302 at the same sensitivity & dpi mad.gif
post #26 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by wonderboysam View Post

I've found taping the sensor made both of my g303s slow and sluggish when compared to my g302 at the same sensitivity & dpi mad.gif

By taping I hope you mean taking it apart and putting two sided tape on the edges. If you literally just put tape on the outside then I don't even know what to say.
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post #27 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruzanHD View Post

By taping I hope you mean taking it apart and putting two sided tape on the edges. If you literally just put tape on the outside then I don't even know what to say.

yes I do mean that, I've opened them up near 100 times now biggrin.gif
post #28 of 58
@ncck

you can kind of decide how long the leaving wires will be, unless the paracord itself is too short.
You can stroke the paracord towards the wires, the more of the wires will be coverd with paracord, before using the heatshrink.
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post #29 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by thuNDa View Post

@ncck

you can kind of decide how long the leaving wires will be, unless the paracord itself is too short.
You can stroke the paracord towards the wires, the more of the wires will be coverd with paracord, before using the heatshrink.

It's too short, I already tried moving the sleeve up the wire but no matter how I routed it eventually the wires would begin falling out the front part. I even tried to heatshrink the exit tightly.. I'm guessing they're just suppose to come out - is it an issue? I was thinking of electrical taping the exit spot to be so thick that it can't come out - but that might ruin the flexibility? If the sleeve was just a bit longer the wires would never show

Buying another g303 to re-do it later since that one just became a testing ground basically and I messed up the shell. I also couldn't get the power connector all the way down but it still seemed to work - could only get the original cable to go all the way down. Regardless when it was plugged in like I said before felt like almost nothing was there. Anyway this is a fun learning experience cause I generally never take mice apart. Even something like tightening or loosening the screws under the feet seem to affect the actuation point of the buttons on the shell - not by much but it's fun to play around with and get it the way you like
Edited by ncck - 1/29/16 at 8:21am
post #30 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by ncck View Post

It's too short, I already tried moving the sleeve up the wire but no matter how I routed it eventually the wires would begin falling out the front part. I even tried to heatshrink the exit tightly.. I'm guessing they're just suppose to come out - is it an issue? I was thinking of electrical taping the exit spot to be so thick that it can't come out - but that might ruin the flexibility? If the sleeve was just a bit longer the wires would never show

Buying another g303 to re-do it later since that one just became a testing ground basically and I messed up the shell. I also couldn't get the power connector all the way down but it still seemed to work - could only get the original cable to go all the way down

My deathadder cable is not all the way down either, but it works. I guess it's less than a millimeter..
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