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Where to buy water cooling fill bottle? - Page 2

post #11 of 34
Thread Starter 
Ah ok. When you say top, does that mean air would naturally go to where there's an opening (i.e. the opened fill port)? Sorry, total water cooling noob here and am trying to learn things smile.gif
post #12 of 34
You honestly don't need one unless your fill port is in a really inaccessible area.

I just have some extra tube coiled up behind my back panel that leads to my reservoir. When I want to refill, I open the back panel of my case, pull out the tube, and pour coolant into it. I've never had a problem pouring coolant from either the bottle they come in (for premixed) or from typical household containers like measuring cups or disposable water bottles.

If you have really shaky hands or something, just use a funnel.
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post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 
Ok, that makes sense. I have the H220X and is mounted at the top. Does that mean that when I open the fill port liquid will come oozing out?

In your case, what do you use to cover the extra tubing after you refill? that tubing in the back should be covered, shouldn't it?
post #14 of 34
The most recent time I rebuilt....... I siphoned.......I actually just used a piece of tubing and set the gallon of distilled water on top of the computer, and then filled the tube by sucking it out like a straw and when it was full pinching it. I aimed the tip at the hole safely and unpinched allowing it to flow until the reservoir was good and filled, then pinched it off again. biggrin.gif (sounded dirty for some reason). I did use a smaller diameter tube, something like 1/4" ID tubing that I had laying around so that it wouldn't flow so fast I couldn't control it.
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post #15 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Ok, that makes sense. I have the H220X and is mounted at the top. Does that mean that when I open the fill port liquid will come oozing out?

In your case, what do you use to cover the extra tubing after you refill? that tubing in the back should be covered, shouldn't it?

Solid brass plug shoved into the end of the tube. If you want to get fancy I suppose you could insert a threaded fitting, and then screw in a threaded plug.
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post #16 of 34
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My System
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Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
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2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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post #17 of 34
Thread Starter 
Ok, got it. I still have pending questions regarding bleeding the system though. Should I just create a new thread about it?
post #18 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

What do you mean no pressure difference? I thought as long as the fill port is opened there would be pressure difference?

What the other guy wrote. There's a small tube going into the opening of a huge hole and your tube is big enough that the liquid (water in this case) can flow freely so there's basically no pressure. Imagine if it was a viscous liquid that you were trying to push through, or you had next to no space from the tube going into the reservoir for air to escape out of, then I would recommend something like luer lock barb. But I forgot there's not any of that so you're pretty much set.
post #19 of 34
Thread Starter 
Ok. So air will naturally go to an empty space in the loop which when you tilt thw case repeatedly will go to the reservoir as you fill it, correct?
post #20 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevindd992002 View Post

Ok. So air will naturally go to an empty space in the loop which when you tilt thw case repeatedly will go to the reservoir as you fill it, correct?
Not exactly the way it works.

Before you start filling the loop the air is everywhere.
As you add water the air gets trapped in the high spots.
So, you turn on the pump, that's, hopefully, at a low spot and has water in it.
The pump then pushes the water into and through the loop which pushes the air ahead of it, until the air reaches the res, then the air and water are separated.
The air stays in the res and the water moves on back to the pump and the whole thing starts over again until all the air is gone.
Note that as the air keeps getting "trapped" in the res that you have to add more water to replace the air that was removed from the loop.

Sometimes air gets trapped in pockets or high places in the loop and the pump isn't strong enough to push it our. Then you have to start tipping and shaking the case to give gravity some help gettig the air to move.

You have to be careful though not to let the pump[ "run dry". The water cools and lubricates the bearings in the pump. No water for even just a few seconds can cook the bearings, or at the very least, put years of wear on them.
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Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
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2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX6300 Black M5A99X EVO R2.0 Nvidia GTS450 Team Vulcan PC3 12800 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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Logiteck G400s none 
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