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[TW] The Best Rechargeable AA Batteries [BENCHMARKS AND TESTS] - Page 4

post #31 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by CynicalUnicorn View Post

Yeah, batteries don't like heat. Charging speed is going to be directly related to current. As current increases, so too does waste heat.

It would probably be a smarter idea to have a good, slow charger with fully charged batteries ready to go.

I would get a quality charger like a Tenergy, keep batteries fresh in it and always ready for the swap.
    
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post #32 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by PostalTwinkie View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by CynicalUnicorn View Post

Yeah, batteries don't like heat. Charging speed is going to be directly related to current. As current increases, so too does waste heat.

It would probably be a smarter idea to have a good, slow charger with fully charged batteries ready to go.

I would get a quality charger like a Tenergy, keep batteries fresh in it and always ready for the swap.

Actually, the batteries will last longer if you don't keep them in a charger. Just charge them, then take them out and leave them alone. Even partial recharges, no matter how small, will count as a recharge cycle. LSD Ni-MH batteries hold a charge long enough to easily negate the need for keeping them in a charger. Some of the newer ones can hold a 70% charge for up to ten years now. The only reason I recharge my spares yearly is I have a lot of the older ones that won't hold a usable charge much longer than that and it's easier to just do them all at the same time than it is to sort the newer ones out. It's also easier for me to remember to do it.
     
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post #33 of 40
Li-mn don't need to stay charge and long term storage says to store drained. If it has been over drained or stored too long you use a slow charge current. Otherwise fully drain every X charges (preferably all) and charge to full.

I'm the case you charge a battery and don't use it, don't charge it again even if it's only got 25%, full disgorge is recommended.

A lot of battery care goes into mech mods for ecigs. When you are pullin 30+ amps and over 130w right in front of your face you learn to care. I've accidentally vented one and a short ruined another (almost vent). You know what heat is then, trust me.

(Edit) unless it's over discharged, charging current doesn't play too much of a role as long as the battery permits. Most can charge at 3-4a while most chargers only run .5-1a. A good charger automatically detects if the battery has been over discharged and slow charges it.
Edited by mushroomboy - 1/30/16 at 1:54pm
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post #34 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by mushroomboy View Post

Li-mn don't need to stay charge and long term storage says to store drained. If it has been over drained or stored too long you use a slow charge current. Otherwise fully drain every X charges (preferably all) and charge to full.

I'm the case you charge a battery and don't use it, don't charge it again even if it's only got 25%, full disgorge is recommended.

A lot of battery care goes into mech mods for ecigs. When you are pullin 30+ amps and over 130w right in front of your face you learn to care. I've accidentally vented one and a short ruined another (almost vent). You know what heat is then, trust me.

(Edit) unless it's over discharged, charging current doesn't play too much of a role as long as the battery permits. Most can charge at 3-4a while most chargers only run .5-1a. A good charger automatically detects if the battery has been over discharged and slow charges it.

Can you provide a link to backup what you just said? My experience (six years worth) with and what I've read about LSD Ni-MH batteries is pretty much the opposite of what you said. LSD Ni-MH batteries do not develop a "memory" when repeatedly charged when partially discharged, unlike Ni-Cads, which do. The only problem with recharging a partially discharged LSD Ni-MH battery is even partial recharges count as a full recharge against the number of recharges a battery can survive.

The only time you need to fully discharge a LSD Ni-MH before recharging is when you are measuring the remaining capacity of the battery (most, if not all, smart chargers will do that automatically when set to test capacity). In fact it is possible to over discharge a Ni-MH battery. Many chargers cannot detect the battery if the voltage drops below 1.0v. The easy fix for that problem is to briefly shunt the discharged battery to a full charged one—I usually use a couple of nickels or quarters—to boost the discharged battery back up to 1.0v. Even that won't work if the battery is discharged too much. I ruined an expensive 18V Ni-MH battery doing that.

Contrary to what you said, charging current plays a huge role with battery life. The higher the current you use to charge a Ni-MH battery, the hotter it will get and heat will quickly kill a battery. You try to charge a AA or AAA Ni-MH with 3-4A, I would be amazed if you didn't blow up the battery. I have a smart charger that can charge up to two AA or AAA batteries at up to 1500mAh (1.5A). I tried that once out of curiosity and the batteries quickly became sizzling hot within a few minutes. I killed the power and let them cool before continuing to charge them at a saner rate (200mAh).
     
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post #35 of 40
I own multiple packs of the energizer rechargeable batteries. They really are that great. Last a very long time.
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post #36 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Can you provide a link to backup what you just said? My experience (six years worth) with and what I've read about LSD Ni-MH batteries is pretty much the opposite of what you said. LSD Ni-MH batteries do not develop a "memory" when repeatedly charged when partially discharged, unlike Ni-Cads, which do. The only problem with recharging a partially discharged LSD Ni-MH battery is even partial recharges count as a full recharge against the number of recharges a battery can survive.

The only time you need to fully discharge a LSD Ni-MH before recharging is when you are measuring the remaining capacity of the battery (most, if not all, smart chargers will do that automatically when set to test capacity). In fact it is possible to over discharge a Ni-MH battery. Many chargers cannot detect the battery if the voltage drops below 1.0v. The easy fix for that problem is to briefly shunt the discharged battery to a full charged one—I usually use a couple of nickels or quarters—to boost the discharged battery back up to 1.0v. Even that won't work if the battery is discharged too much. I ruined an expensive 18V Ni-MH battery doing that.

Contrary to what you said, charging current plays a huge role with battery life. The higher the current you use to charge a Ni-MH battery, the hotter it will get and heat will quickly kill a battery. You try to charge a AA or AAA Ni-MH with 3-4A, I would be amazed if you didn't blow up the battery. I have a smart charger that can charge up to two AA or AAA batteries at up to 1500mAh (1.5A). I tried that once out of curiosity and the batteries quickly became sizzling hot within a few minutes. I killed the power and let them cool before continuing to charge them at a saner rate (200mAh).

I'm playing with batteries rated for 3-4a, don't EVER charge or discharge a battery outside of its limits. EVER, know ur battery. A lot are under rated though, safety margins.

Take my Sony vtc 5. It's rated for a 30 amp continuous, 45 amp pulse? Tests have ran it at 50 continuous which means it should roughly har a 75amp pulse.

Remember, you shouldn't push a battery unless you absolutely know what the heck you are doing. On top of that, I'm running mine without any safeties.

If the charger cannot read the battery, I personally wouldn't ever charge it an get a better charger. And as i said, most chargers don't charge above 1a. I assume if you have one that does, you know what you are doing as I assume you do with shunting but it's heavily against the rules.

As for memory, it's not as bad but it does exist and good battery habit will always keep your batteries healthy.

For example if your battery has multiple cells, charging it before you should wears those cells out quicker. You get an uneven drained battery. Cells are what have the charge cycle limit. Single cell batteries don't matter, but it's all worth keeping habit.
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post #37 of 40
Lithium cells last if you keep them between 25 percent and 75 percent charge. They hold charges for years and dont turn to mush if they are kept in discharged state for extended peroids, although its not good for them longterm.

Of all those brands listed, I would be surprised if there were actually more than 3 types of cells used once you cut the battery open. Not many companies actually mass produce lithium cells. Probably mostly Sanyo cells.
post #38 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by mushroomboy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Can you provide a link to backup what you just said? My experience (six years worth) with and what I've read about LSD Ni-MH batteries is pretty much the opposite of what you said. LSD Ni-MH batteries do not develop a "memory" when repeatedly charged when partially discharged, unlike Ni-Cads, which do. The only problem with recharging a partially discharged LSD Ni-MH battery is even partial recharges count as a full recharge against the number of recharges a battery can survive.

The only time you need to fully discharge a LSD Ni-MH before recharging is when you are measuring the remaining capacity of the battery (most, if not all, smart chargers will do that automatically when set to test capacity). In fact it is possible to over discharge a Ni-MH battery. Many chargers cannot detect the battery if the voltage drops below 1.0v. The easy fix for that problem is to briefly shunt the discharged battery to a full charged one—I usually use a couple of nickels or quarters—to boost the discharged battery back up to 1.0v. Even that won't work if the battery is discharged too much. I ruined an expensive 18V Ni-MH battery doing that.

Contrary to what you said, charging current plays a huge role with battery life. The higher the current you use to charge a Ni-MH battery, the hotter it will get and heat will quickly kill a battery. You try to charge a AA or AAA Ni-MH with 3-4A, I would be amazed if you didn't blow up the battery. I have a smart charger that can charge up to two AA or AAA batteries at up to 1500mAh (1.5A). I tried that once out of curiosity and the batteries quickly became sizzling hot within a few minutes. I killed the power and let them cool before continuing to charge them at a saner rate (200mAh).

I'm playing with batteries rated for 3-4a, don't EVER charge or discharge a battery outside of its limits. EVER, know ur battery. A lot are under rated though, safety margins.

Take my Sony vtc 5. It's rated for a 30 amp continuous, 45 amp pulse? Tests have ran it at 50 continuous which means it should roughly har a 75amp pulse.

Remember, you shouldn't push a battery unless you absolutely know what the heck you are doing. On top of that, I'm running mine without any safeties.

If the charger cannot read the battery, I personally wouldn't ever charge it an get a better charger. And as i said, most chargers don't charge above 1a. I assume if you have one that does, you know what you are doing as I assume you do with shunting but it's heavily against the rules.

As for memory, it's not as bad but it does exist and good battery habit will always keep your batteries healthy.

For example if your battery has multiple cells, charging it before you should wears those cells out quicker. You get an uneven drained battery. Cells are what have the charge cycle limit. Single cell batteries don't matter, but it's all worth keeping habit.

You're comparing apples and kumquats. We are talking about LSD Ni-MH (nickel metal hydride) cells in AA and AAA sizes in this thread. You are talking about Li-ion cells, which are a completely different kettle of fish, with different capacities and charging characteristics. You can't (at least shouldn't) use the same kind of chargers, charge rates, etc. on them. The rules that apply to one kind of battery DO NOT apply to the other.

The smart chargers I use are designed for Ni-cads and Ni-MH batteries and are very highly rated. Just because they can't read much below 1v (I have had them read 0.95v+ on occasion) doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the charger; 'tis but the nature of the beast. Ideally, one should not allow a Ni-MH cell discharge below 1v. I typically recharge mine at around 1.1-1.25v, the point where they typically become too weak to use effectively.

Shunting a Ni-MH battery cell to another one is recommended by the charger manufacturer to bring a low battery back up to the point the charger can "see" it. The higher charger rates can be used to fast charge a battery but even the manufacturer recommends using a lower rate and using the higher ones only in emergencies when it is necessary to get a cell back into service quickly. Keeping spares on hand is a far more sensible option as is having multiple chargers so several cells can be charged at a slower rate. With my chargers, I can charge as many as eight cells at once, both AA and AAA at the same time as long as they are paired up by size.
     
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post #39 of 40
I have the Sanyo Eneloops featured here:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LU9150/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_3

and also some AAA Eneloops that work in the same charger, they work great. I use the AA in my wireless Xbox 360 controller (for Windows), and the AAA in my wireless keyboard+touchpad. Great life to the batteries, I've been super happy and am saving money on batteries.
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Windows 7 Pro 64-bit Acer XB270HU 2560x1440, IPS-type panel, 144hz, ... EIZO FG2421 1920x1080 VA 120Hz QuickFire Cherry Blue 
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post #40 of 40
I've had Eneloops since Sanyo still owned. Hands down one of the best purchases I've ever made. I haven't bought regular batteries in a very long time.
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Eclipse
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Sager NP8652
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Phenom II 980 @ 3.9ghz ASUS M2N-SLI Deluxe MSI GTX 560 Ti 448 Twin Frozr @ 850mhz EVGA GT 620 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
8GB OCZ DDR2 1066 Crucial M500 480GB 2x Western Digital 640GB Sony Optiarc AD-7241S-0B 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Xigmatek Dark Knight - push/pull w/ tape mod Windows 7 Pro x64 AOC i2353 23.5" Element ELEFW408 40" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Sentey Cobalt Pro Corsair 750TX Cooler Master Centurion Razer Mamba (3.5G) 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
SteelSeries QCK Mini Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer Steelseries Siberia V2 Logitech X540 
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Intel Core i7 4720HQ P65_P67SG Nvidia GTX 980M 16GB DDR3 1600mhz 
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Crucial MX100 512GB 500GB HDD Windows 7 x64 Home AOC Q3277FQE 
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