Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Air Cooling › Phanteks evolv atx bad temps
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Phanteks evolv atx bad temps

post #1 of 71
Thread Starter 
Hi guys I'm at my wits end trying to improve airflow in my phanteks evolv atx. I love this case but this case is making me consider on whether I should go with a corsair. Only thing is I've only had it a couple of months.

My system specs:
I5-6600k OC @ 4.6 = 1.38v
980ti gigabyte wf (non-g1) running custom g1 bios no additional OC custom fan curve
8x2 rip jaws v 2400 MHz 15-15-15-35 OC @ 2933 = 1.38v and VICCO/SA = 1.15v
Asus viii hero bios 1402
Corsair hx850i

My cooling components
H110igtx using stock fans as top exhaust = pump in performance mode/fans on custom curve
2x120mm Jet Flo running at max rpm as front intake
1x140mm ph140-ap (stock case fan) running at max rpm as rear exhaust

Temps:
Cpu idle=34-36C load=56-62C
GPU idle=36-40C load=65-72C

Ambient temps =25-29C all year round. Hot country

But even when my ambient temp comes down to 21-23C my load temps are no different.

I've noticed that for obvious reasons that the moment the gpu heats up the cpu temp rises as well and my whole case goes hot ok touch.



So this is how my airflow is set up at the moment. I took it down to a local PC shop and they said that my case was probably recirculating hot air because of the empty space between the radiator and the top panel which is highlight by the green lines. There is a clearance and I think the top radiator might have enough pushing force to exhaust it from the case entirely. And also there is an empty space left by the rad as highlight in orange. Could this be an issue where the hot air is coming back down or my front intake is going up there?

Steps I've taken:
I've already propped up the front panel abit to allow more air to flow through

Steps I'm contemplating:
Putting my gpu under water which I will probably down the Line
Buying a new case
Putting fans beneath the gpu and pushing air up
Putting fans on top of the radiator to help with exhaust
Buying more powerful fans for the rads
Bridging the orange gap

I'd love to hear your thoughts and I'd appreciate any suggestions!
post #2 of 71
I'm no expert but my temps are near what yours is at load, which I honestly think it's not bad at all but someone else who has more experience and knowledge could chime in. Idle temps don't really matter much, it's the load temps that matter. Depending on the game my CPU gets up to 60s and GPU to 35-40s, granted I have a custom loop but your CPU temps don't seem that bad. I have an OC on the CPU to 4.7ghz @ 1.3v and my SLI 980Ti are clocked just under 1500.
War Machine
(12 items)
 
Arctic Horizon
(21 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 6700k Asus Maximus VIII Formula EVGA 980Ti EVGA 980Ti 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
32GB G.Skill TridentZ 3200 Samsung 850 Pro EK Supremacy EVO EK-Coolstream PE 360 
CoolingOSMonitorCase
EK-Coolstream CE 280 Windows 10 LG 34uc87c Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel i7 4790k Gigabyte SOC  EVGA 980Ti SC w/ EK-FC Titan X - Acetal+Nickel EVGA 980Ti SC w/ EK-FC Titan X - Acetal+Nickel 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
16gb Corsair Vengeance Western Digital Western Digital Samsung 850 Pro 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Crucial M550 LG DVD/CD-RW Heatkiller IV Pro Alphacool UT60 480mm 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Alphacool XT45 480mm Corsair SP120 Windows 10 LG 34UC87C 
PowerCase
Corsair HX850 Phanteks Enthroo Primo 
  hide details  
Reply
War Machine
(12 items)
 
Arctic Horizon
(21 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 6700k Asus Maximus VIII Formula EVGA 980Ti EVGA 980Ti 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
32GB G.Skill TridentZ 3200 Samsung 850 Pro EK Supremacy EVO EK-Coolstream PE 360 
CoolingOSMonitorCase
EK-Coolstream CE 280 Windows 10 LG 34uc87c Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ATX 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel i7 4790k Gigabyte SOC  EVGA 980Ti SC w/ EK-FC Titan X - Acetal+Nickel EVGA 980Ti SC w/ EK-FC Titan X - Acetal+Nickel 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
16gb Corsair Vengeance Western Digital Western Digital Samsung 850 Pro 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Crucial M550 LG DVD/CD-RW Heatkiller IV Pro Alphacool UT60 480mm 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Alphacool XT45 480mm Corsair SP120 Windows 10 LG 34UC87C 
PowerCase
Corsair HX850 Phanteks Enthroo Primo 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 71
As Toan said, your temps are quite good as they are. thumb.gif
If the load temps are running RealBench or similar stress test they are very good. thumbsupsmiley.png

H110i is not a good cooler. Add the fact the included fans are not all that great on such a restrictive high-fin radiator and the lack of venting in top of Evolv ATX and you have rather anemic radiator airflow. Combining this with only 2x 140mm intakes with 2x 140m radiator exhaust and 140m rear exhaust you have less intake than exhaust airflow potential by 2:3 ratio.

3 things i would try are:
  • Remove all unused PCIe back slot covers. Even though these covers are vented, they still restrict about 40% of their potential airflow.
  • If possible, unlatch top cover so latches are just setting on their catches. I'm guessing this will give you a 6-10mm gap between case and cover for increased airflow. Le's us see what this does to your temps.
  • Try turning the rear exhaust into an intake. While the air behind case is warmer than room, it may well be several degree lower then heated exhaust coming off of GPU.

If you haven't yet, check out 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. The 1st topic is what I use to monitor air temps inside of case. Cheap to buy, easy to modify, and is a great help in knowing component intake air temps as well as other temps inside of case.
post #4 of 71
The restrictive top doesn't play really nice with the CLCs. Restrictive top exhaust + really inefficient restrictive rad + space for rad exhaust to recirculate + aircooled 980 Ti = recipe for disaster. Add in the downgrade on the front intakes (yes, the 120mm JetFlo are a downgrade from the 140SP in this application)......

Two things that will help until you get actual liquid cooling in there: First, put your F140SP back in place and get the JetFlo out of there. Second, and more importantly, seal up the holes in the radiator tray up top (use some simple cardboard and tape to test, when it works find something more aesthetically pleasing). Right now your cooler is doing nothing but recirculating heated air to itself....getting it warmer and warmer. If you seal up those holes, your rad exhaust won't have anywhere to go except out the exhaust vents and won't get sucked back into the rad. BTW - even after you get an actual loop in there, the sealing still holds true.
Edited by ciarlatano - 1/30/16 at 5:31am
post #5 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

As Toan said, your temps are quite good as they are. thumb.gif
If the load temps are running RealBench or similar stress test they are very good. thumbsupsmiley.png

H110i is not a good cooler. Add the fact the included fans are not all that great on such a restrictive high-fin radiator and the lack of venting in top of Evolv ATX and you have rather anemic radiator airflow. Combining this with only 2x 140mm intakes with 2x 140m radiator exhaust and 140m rear exhaust you have less intake than exhaust airflow potential by 2:3 ratio.

3 things i would try are:
  • Remove all unused PCIe back slot covers. Even though these covers are vented, they still restrict about 40% of their potential airflow.
  • If possible, unlatch top cover so latches are just setting on their catches. I'm guessing this will give you a 6-10mm gap between case and cover for increased airflow. Le's us see what this does to your temps.
  • Try turning the rear exhaust into an intake. While the air behind case is warmer than room, it may well be several degree lower then heated exhaust coming off of GPU.

If you haven't yet, check out 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. The 1st topic is what I use to monitor air temps inside of case. Cheap to buy, easy to modify, and is a great help in knowing component intake air temps as well as other temps inside of case.

i have 3 x 120mm intakes that have higher cfm than the 140mms i have as exhaust. should i go with the noctua industrial 3000 pwm 140mm for the rad?

yeah that seems to be a recurring theme on overclock.net, i regret not finding this place before buiying the h110i gtx. i got it after reading a couple of reviews which said that the h110igtx had good performance. thing is i only recently got my h110i gtx so am i a bit reluctant to change it again so quickly.

i know a couple of alternatives are the swiftech h240 x2 and the ekwb predator 360 tho the former hasnt released yet.

will try the rear exhaust as intake once i can get a filter for it.
post #6 of 71
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

The restrictive top doesn't play really nice with the CLCs. Restrictive top exhaust + really inefficient restrictive rad + space for rad exhaust to recirculate + aircooled 980 Ti = recipe for disaster. Add in the downgrade on the front intakes (yes, the 120mm JetFlo are a downgrade from the 140SP in this application)......

Two things that will help until you get actual liquid cooling in there: First, put your F140SP back in place and get the JetFlo out of there. Second, and more importantly, seal up the holes in the radiator tray up top (use some simple cardboard and tape to test, when it works find something more aesthetically pleasing). Right now your cooler is doing nothing but recirculating heated air to itself....getting it warmer and warmer. If you seal up those holes, your rad exhaust won't have anywhere to go except out the exhaust vents and won't get sucked back into the rad. BTW - even after you get an actual loop in there, the sealing still holds true.

i got the jetflos because i thought they'd be better at cooling than the stock case fans. they're rated for higher cfms than the stock fans, isnt this meant to be better? or am i mising something here. alright will try the cardboard method!
post #7 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by clarifiante View Post

i got the jetflos because i thought they'd be better at cooling than the stock case fans. they're rated for higher cfms than the stock fans, isnt this meant to be better? or am i mising something here. alright will try the cardboard method!

You have 2, not 3 JetFlos listed in your initial post, so @doyll and I were both working under that presumption. That confused the situation a little.

BTW - your temps are fine....maybe. They will get better after you seal off the top flow path, though. I'm not quite sure what your expectation is for temps with that OC, nor am I sure what you consider "load". If your "load" is playing a game, then, yeah, your temps need some work. If your idea of "load" is actually putting a load on the CPU with Prime95, AIDA64, OCCT, etc, then they are fine. There is also the matter that if you need to have all of those fans at full tilt to get decent temps, well, that is a huge issue. Those aren't exactly what one would quiet fans.
post #8 of 71
Both CFM and mmH2O specifications are from the land of trolls and goblins. Run! Run very fast!

Take a look at the topic in my thread liked below about P-Q curves

Try what we've suggested and see what you get.

Ciarlatano has the case and knows it better than I do. He is absolutely right - give that man a good star - about blocking any air leaks from above radiator and inside of case. You will be amazed how much a little leak of heated air back inside raises the air temps and resulting component temps.
post #9 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Both CFM and mmH2O specifications are from the land of trolls and goblins. Run! Run very fast!

It seems more that they are from teh land of "pick a number between 30 and 140......94? Ok, done, we will list the cfm as 94".
post #10 of 71
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

It seems more that they are from teh land of "pick a number between 30 and 140......94? Ok, done, we will list the cfm as 94".
Me thinks for some companies you are correct. For all the others who have accurate CFM and mmH2O numbers, weellll... a few of us may on rare occasions use a fan setting on our desk or on a shelf to move air around a room. But I have never ever in my wildest dreams .. even with fairy dust in my brain .. head of anyone using a fan laying flat or set tight against a book so it can't even leak a little air out. tongue.gif And after is said and done, the mm H2O reading is when fan is totally blocked with absolutely no airflow at all. devil.gif
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Air Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Air Cooling › Phanteks evolv atx bad temps