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[Build Log] Downsizing to the Air 540 + No bends PETG loop: Modding required - Page 2

post #11 of 29
Definitely subbing to this. I love me some good 540 case mods wheee.gif
     
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post #12 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmons572 View Post

Definitely subbing to this. I love me some good 540 case mods wheee.gif
Thanks man!!! I actually almost gave up entirely on the 540 to purchase a caselabs mercury. Luckily they dont offer any Mercury's with 420mm mounts so I was saved the 500 dollars.

So here's a quick verbal of my progress so far.
I bought a 280 rad and a 420 rad from EKWB before realizing that the silhouette of the case would have to be altered dramatically to make it work. Honestly the fact that NO ONE has done a 280/420 build in this case was also a driving factor for me upon purchasing the 420. While planning for the 420 I made two designs, one that had the rad protruding from the top of the case and one where it protrudes from the bottom of the case. I decided to scrap the plan because the 420mm rad from EKWB is actually 480mm tall which is about an inch and a half too tall for the case. Severe modification to the case's fan mesh would be required and I wasn't down with that after thinking on it for about 24 hours.

So I contacted performance-pc and told them to change it to a xe 360 rad... 60mm thick... oh god. That and I decided to get some new PWM dark side gentle typhoons to replace my 5 year old Sycthe 12V GTs...

Anyways the guys at performance-pc were amazing and before my order was shipped they refunded shipping on additional orders, combined orders, and got it shipped out. So in two weeks Ill have my rads and fittings, EWKB has yet to process my order for the res, block and additional acc, and I also made a 350 dollar order from aqua computer (I'm broke now) to get a controller for all my fans and pump, that and their power adjust module . Overkill for sure since my GPU is a 960 and is unavailable to be liquid cooled. So from the point I get this installed I'll be running a 45mm thick 280 rad and a 60mm thick 360mm rad for just my CPU haha. Should be fun. GPU coming soon I promise.

So my plan now is to move the 280 as far to the rear as possible to make room for the 360s fittings, that and I have about 15mm between the front metal face and the mesh on the front so that gives the 360 a little room. I will cut the top of the case out to make room for a 280 push/pull. Im going to cut the front of the 540 out to push the 360 out side the case, which will give me just enough room to get fittings installed on the 360. Fans on the 360 will be a problem but one that I can't possiblly deal with until I have the hardware in my hands. Hopefully fittings will solve my space problems.

One thing I'm worried about is that I haven't seen one build that consists of a 280(45mm thick)+360 (60mm thick) EK rad anywhere on the nets, let alone a 420. Though after days of planning around a 420 I am confident that I can make it work with some modification to the top or bottom planes of the case. If you have any insight on the matter I am very interested to hear your input.
Edited by BrooD - 2/6/16 at 10:03pm
post #13 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrooD View Post

So my plan now is to move the 280 as far to the rear as possible to make room for the 360s fittings, that and I have about 15mm between the front metal face and the mesh on the front so that gives the 360 a little room. I will cut the top of the case out to make room for a 280 push/pull. Im going to cut the front of the 540 out to push the 360 out side the case, which will give me just enough room to get fittings installed on the 360. Fans on the 360 will be a problem but one that I can't possiblly deal with until I have the hardware in my hands. Hopefully fittings will solve my space problems.

One thing I'm worried about is that I haven't seen one build that consists of a 280(45mm thick)+360 (60mm thick) EK rad anywhere on the nets, let alone a 420. Though after days of planning around a 420 I am confident that I can make it work with some modification to the top or bottom planes of the case. If you have any insight on the matter I am very interested to hear your input.

I am slightly confused as to what the plan is. Are you going to be using the 280 360 and 420, or just the 280 360?

If you are using the 420, then I am really intrigued to what you come up with. I cannot really visualize a good place to install it, but if you make it work, I would be very impressed. However, of you decide to go without, I believe you will have more than enough surface area to dissipate any GPU you decide to through in there, and with the proposed mods, it should be very cool as well. (Pun not intended tongue.gif )
     
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post #14 of 29
Thread Starter 

This is a quick sketch of my first plan for the 420 rad, it would save the aesthetics of the top of the case but would require significant modification of the underside. I planned on running the fittings underneath the case to a drain port such as the Kiers 540 MBK but after doing some serious measuring I threw out this plan because of one, how it would look from the front and two, clearance underneath the case.

The front of case would need to be cut out all the way through the bottom of the front face for fan mounts, a new faceplate would need to be made, the legs on the case would need to be replaced with taller versions, and the bottom tray of the case would need to be cut out and replaced with one that accommodates the 420 rad. All that just to have 140s in the front, I wanted it for sure but the work/ pay off didn't look good after a few days.

So no, I scrapped the plans for the 420. It was just too much modification to the frame. If I had my TIG welder, compressor impact gun, and a shop bench I wouldn't even flinch about it but it's different when all I have to work with is a dremel, a tiny vice, and a hack saw.

Instead of the 420 it will be a 360 with 120s... pretty depressing honestly but I haven't actually seen ANY cases that use a 280+360 either so. Maybe I'll be the first one to do that anyways? My plan to run fittings underneath will still work with the 360. That and I can't see any plan with the fans in the front working so, I might have to push the 360 rad out side the front of the case and mount fans in a pull only config for the front. Like I said though I really just need the rads in my hands to know for sure.

I should make a pre-lim parts list going in to this build.

Parts I already own:
i7 2600K
z68 EVGA FTW
16GB GSkill something series
EVGA GTX 960 FTW
SB X-Fi Fatal1ty
Silverstone ST-1200G

Parts I just purchased:

From Amazon
Complete SilverStone PP06 cable set
Vantec M3503T hot swap bay
7 Noctua a14 ip67s
1 Noctua NF-A8
Raw materials (Aluminum, rivets, screws, bolts, etc.)
1.5" furniture legs
4200 Dremel
24oz of Liquitex carbon black spray paint
24oz of 3M 1601 scotch insulating spray
Much more misc.

From EK
EK-DBAY D5 PWM (incl. pump)
EK-DBAY Aluminum Bezel for the prettiness factor
EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel

From Perf-PCs
1 EK-CoolStream CE 280 (Dual)
1 EK-CoolStream XE 360 (Triple)
1 DarkSide 360mm Triple Radiator Gasket
3 DarkSide Gentle Typhoon Performance Radiator Fan (550-1850rpm) 58cfm - Black Edition PWM
1 Mayhems Pastel Extreme - White - 100ml
1 Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O - 5Ltr
3000mm of Bitspower None Chamfer PETG 12mm OD Tube
3 Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Dual Rotary 45 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter
16 Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter
2 Black Sparkle Multi-F Block (Inner G1/4"X5)
2 Bitspower Matte Black 90-Degree With Dual Rotary Inner G1/4" Extender
4 Bitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Triple Rotary 90 Degree G 1/4 Male to IG 1/4" Female Fitting
11 Bitspower BP-BSWP-C47 G1/4" Black Sparkle Multi-Link Adapter- Set of 2
2 Bitspower BP-MBWP-C62 G1/4" Matte Black IG1/4" Extender - 25mm
7 Bitspower Case Top Water Fill/ Through Hole Fitting Set - Carbon Black Finish
2 Bitspower Premium G1/4" Black Sparkle Stop Fitting
1 Bitspower G1/4" Black Sparkle Anti-Cyclone Adapter

From sidewinder computers
4 Bitspower G 1/4in. Silver Shining Multi-Link Adapter Mini - BP-WTP-C48
4 Bitspower G 1/4 Silver Diamond Stop Fitting - BP-SDWP-C06
2 Bitspower G 1/4 Matte Black Anti-Twist Adapter (BP-MBDR-C)
5 Bitspower Matt Black Male to Male G 1/4 Fitting #BP-MBWP-C42 - Mini Version

From AquaPC
1 Illumination insert G1/4 incl. gasket
1 RGB illumination module for aquaero 5 and 6
1 aquabus cable 4 pins
1 aquaero 6 XT USB fan controller, graphic LCD, touch control, IR remote control
1 Passive heat sink for poweradjust 3, black
1 poweradjust 3 USB, ultra version
1 Temperature sensor G1/4 for aquaero, aquastream XT and aquaduct
1 Acrylic glass display cover for aquaero 5/6 PRO
1 Bezel set for poweradjust 2/3 and farbwerk, brushed stainless steel
1 Passive heat sink for aquaero 6, black
1 Mounting material aquaero 5 LT for drive bay

From caselabs
2 5.25 flex bay mounts
Edited by BrooD - 2/7/16 at 11:53pm
post #15 of 29
Ahhh okay! I understand now! Look forward to seeing more updates thumb.gif
     
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post #16 of 29
Thread Starter 
Fittings, and radiators are supposed to be here tomorrow. I ended up needing a lot to make my dream work.. WIsh I had another 800 to spend on hardware!
Anyways, I got my aquero 6xt yesterday. That and I ordered a 80mmx25mm Noctua replacement fan for this Vantec M3503T hot swap bay because it comes with just a paltry, 70x15. That showed up yesterday, so I did some things. After getting that and the power adjust assembled. I took the fan and shroud off the hot swap bay and drilled some holes and set/glued some 6x32 nuts on the inside of the controllers cover.Should work better than that pos. I still need to take the cover off after the glue is done setting and remove some of the plastic cowl.











And so, tonight my res/pump and water block show up. I need to do a few Diva Mods to some 4 pins I have to control the PWM D5 with the Aquero, so I also bought some resistors and some zener diodes. That and some urban camo nylon para cord. Also a hefty order I haven't mentioned from case-labs is coming in monday or so which should get my radiators mounted pretty quickly. Since the first thing I have in my LC loop will be my res, I'm going to start working on a back panel tonight.

Cheers
Edited by BrooD - 2/11/16 at 8:19pm
post #17 of 29
Thread Starter 
What I been doin.












My PSU is isn't going to like this..
Edited by BrooD - 2/12/16 at 7:43am
post #18 of 29
Thread Starter 
Just as I thought, available clearance is 175mm. PSU length, 180mm. T-T

Looking at the Strider Titanium ST80F-TI as a high powered replacement but apparently SilverStone doesn't think the US can handle it because it's only available at websites that don't ship internationally located in Germany, Austria, and Australia... *** SilverStone!? Calling the SilverStone US Sales department sent me to a guy with a store called AeroCooler... Called him... No answer. Left a message.... waiting... Since my cables are SilverStone ONLY I NEED a SilverStone, can anyone help me?

Does anyone know where to get one? Can someone in Australia broker a sale for me?
I can settle for the Gold but I really want the Titanium.

Once I get my hands on 2 new GPUs, those 4 VGA outs would work/look really nice. Having two separate cables power both GPUs? Oh! I need it..
Somebody please help, or else.. I don't know what I'm going to do. Something bad..
Edited by BrooD - 2/12/16 at 9:17pm
post #19 of 29
Thread Starter 
I can find it for 258.99 Australian Dollars...
http://www.megabuy.com.au/silverstone-800w-strider-titanium-cable-management-psu-80-plus-titanium-p662456.html
Edited by BrooD - 2/12/16 at 8:54pm
post #20 of 29
Thread Starter 
Ugh well, I ordered the gold 850. What's another 150 when you're totally broke lol. I dont have time to wait, as Amazon needs their Kraken x61 back in the mail by friday! I might either be doing this with all my computer parts in pieces or hopefully I can get it done in a week. hHAHA that was funny.

Anyway just checking in, I'll be taking a look at all my bitspower fittings today. Showing you guys what kind of color scheme I had in mind when picking them, then I'll get down and dirty with a Diva Mod for my PWM pump. I need to solder in the resistors, get the cables sleeved and be sure that the resistors are protected and safe. I'll explain later. Cheers, I'll be back soon!
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