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Replacing Rivets with M4 Screws? - Page 3

post #21 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLinky View Post

The squeezer tool (for lack of a better name, I don't know if there is one) looks like this: CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
The size of the heads allow you work just about anywhere, including the 90 degree lips, but the depth of the hook/claw limits how far in from the edge of a sheet of metal you can go.

The press nuts I had in mind look like this:


The inner collar slides through a hole in the metal, while the teeth sink part way into the metal when pressed in. They will look like this on the back side (blind side):

I've used them on a powder-coated surface before. The only danger would be the smooth head of the tool should it slide across the metal's surface while squeezing. An easy protection against this would be a layer or two of tape on the tool head.

I cant seem to find that tool, everything I come across says you need a press. Which in all honestly a press isn't expensive. My concern about the paint is less about my OP and more about another use I was planning to do with Rivnuts but now want to use these smile.gif

So any pics of non blind side that you have done? his would look okay with sanding however since it is powder coated I cannot do that. Also got a link to that tool any idea how I can find one?


That is an example of someone not doing a job that I would call okay for powder coated surface lol. However reading more into these press nuts says that if the surface will be powder coated it needs to be done before the nuts are applied. The press nuts are not suppose to be painted at all. This would explain why all the cases I see having them (the case im working on has them) they are not painted at all.

The other application I am considering is 4 nuts top side, they would be for securing Dimastech fan holders things.
Edited by Cyber Locc - 2/3/16 at 9:02pm
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post #22 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLinky View Post

The squeezer tool (for lack of a better name, I don't know if there is one) looks like this: CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 90

The size of the heads allow you work just about anywhere, including the 90 degree lips, but the depth of the hook/claw limits how far in from the edge of a sheet of metal you can go.

The press nuts I had in mind look like this:


The inner collar slides through a hole in the metal, while the teeth sink part way into the metal when pressed in. They will look like this on the back side (blind side):

I've used them on a powder-coated surface before. The only danger would be the smooth head of the tool should it slide across the metal's surface while squeezing. An easy protection against this would be a layer or two of tape on the tool head.

You can get the press-in nuts and setting tools from here but the setting tools are seriously expensive.

I have also used rectangular spring speed nuts (called push nuts here where I didn't have enough thickness for a regular nut, however, they aren't the strongest nuts on Earth and they need a fair amount of width.
     
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post #23 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

You can get the press-in nuts and setting tools from here but the setting tools are seriously expensive.

I have also used rectangular spring speed nuts (called push nuts here where I didn't have enough thickness for a regular nut, however, they aren't the strongest nuts on Earth and they need a fair amount of width.

Jeez that tool is expensive lol, ya I would rather use an Arbor Press. Any idea of how to make it look more flush though? Practice on a piece of throw away metal first smile.gif
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post #24 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

You can get the press-in nuts and setting tools from here but the setting tools are seriously expensive.

I have also used rectangular spring speed nuts (called push nuts here where I didn't have enough thickness for a regular nut, however, they aren't the strongest nuts on Earth and they need a fair amount of width.

I've only ever used a plain 'ol rivet squeezer, like the one I posted earlier, which can be found for pretty cheap. I haven't used a setting tool, so I'm not sure what else it does smile.gif

And I didn't think of it until you posted that link for push nuts, but OP could simply use some Nyloc nuts: like a regular, removable nut that won't come loose over time.
 
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post #25 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyber Locc View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

You can get the press-in nuts and setting tools from here but the setting tools are seriously expensive.

I have also used rectangular spring speed nuts (called push nuts here where I didn't have enough thickness for a regular nut, however, they aren't the strongest nuts on Earth and they need a fair amount of width.

Jeez that tool is expensive lol, ya I would rather use an Arbor Press. Any idea of how to make it look more flush though? Practice on a piece of throw away metal first smile.gif

You aren't a kiddin' that sucker is expensive! And it isn't even gold plated! Not to mention you need a fair amount of room for it when using it. But it does precisely punch the hole in the sheet metal, then presses in the nut. I don't know if a screw and wrench or power driver would be able to pull one of those nuts in or not (I may buy some to see if it's possible but, then again, the hole size has to be really precise). My problem is not having access to a press and, in some cases, have room for the setting tool.
Edited by Lady Fitzgerald - 2/3/16 at 9:23pm
     
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post #26 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLinky View Post

I've only ever used a plain 'ol rivet squeezer, like the one I posted earlier, which can be found for pretty cheap. I haven't used a setting tool, so I'm not sure what else it does smile.gif

And I didn't think of it until you posted that link for push nuts, but OP could simply use some Nylon nuts: like a regular, removable nut that won't come loose over time.

Na I cannot, nyloc nuts are not reusable they are a 1 time insert situation. I honestly think that the "vibration causing the nut to come out" is being exaggerated a tad. 90% of the stuff in our cases does not have locking nuts and doesn't unscrew itself.

I know that vibration causes a nut to loosen over time, however it takes a lot of very strong vibration and PC cases simply dont vibrate to that extreme IMO. A Press nut would suffer the same issue if that was true, so really press nut or a job welded regular nut will achieve the same result as far as that is concerned but the former looks better and is more secure.
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post #27 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

You aren't a kiddin' that sucker is expensive! And it isn't even gold plated! Not to mention you need a fair amount of room for it when using it. But it does precisely punch the hole in the sheet metal, then presses in the nut. I don't know if a screw and wrench or power driver would be able to pull one of those nuts in or not (I may buy some to see if it's possible). My problem is not having access to a press and, in some cases, have room for the setting tool.

Well the setting tool part I cannot help, however the Pic i linked above he just used a harbor freight arbor press its like 40 bucks. Even the Rivet squeezer I am finding cost more lol.
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post #28 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyber Locc View Post

Na I cannot, nyloc nuts are not reusable they are a 1 time insert situation. I honestly think that the "vibration causing the nut to come out" is being exaggerated a tad. 90% of the stuff in our cases does not have locking nuts and doesn't unscrew itself.

I know that vibration causes a nut to loosen over time, however it takes a lot of very strong vibration and PC cases simply dont vibrate to that extreme IMO. A Press nut would suffer the same issue if that was true, so really press nut or a job welded regular nut will achieve the same result as far as that is concerned but the former looks better and is more secure.

True, PCs don't vibrate much. Nylocs being re-used depends on who you ask. I've talked with several FAA-certified A&Ps about this and they say it's okay. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyber Locc View Post

Well the setting tool part I cannot help, however the Pic i linked above he just used a harbor freight arbor press its like 40 bucks. Even the Rivet squeezer I am finding cost more lol.

True, a basic but reliable rivet squeezer starts around the $75 mark, it seems. The arbor press works great, but makes getting to spots near bends difficult.
 
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post #29 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLinky View Post

True, PCs don't vibrate much. Nylocs being re-used depends on who you ask. I've talked with several FAA-certified A&Ps about this and they say it's okay. biggrin.gif
True, a basic but reliable rivet squeezer starts around the $75 mark, it seems. The arbor press works great, but makes getting to spots near bends difficult.

Hmm ya that is a problem as it is on a sharp bend. I believe there is only about 1/2 inch of metal where the nuts would have to go. I actually thought about this after saying that lol, however I may have access to some of those squeezers I am going to check tomorrow but my grandfather does lots of this type of work that gives me access to a lot of these tools. Although he does more large work so maybe not frown.gif I asked him about welding the nuts on hehehe he said his welder is way to big for small aluminum like that he would melt right through it.

I am curious if that is enough for the crimp nuts. More inspection would be necessary. Do you have any pics of the face side of your install? I could use the flush mount ones but am worries they would have the same issue.
Edited by Cyber Locc - 2/3/16 at 10:24pm
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post #30 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyber Locc View Post


So any pics of non blind side that you have done? his would look okay with sanding however since it is powder coated I cannot do that. Also got a link to that tool any idea how I can find one?


That is an example of someone not doing a job that I would call okay for powder coated surface lol. However reading more into these press nuts says that if the surface will be powder coated it needs to be done before the nuts are applied. The press nuts are not suppose to be painted at all. This would explain why all the cases I see having them (the case im working on has them) they are not painted at all.

The other application I am considering is 4 nuts top side, they would be for securing Dimastech fan holders things.
Missed this post, so I'm replying out of order...

I might be able to get a picture soon, but everything I've used press nuts on is installed in an aircraft currently.

I agree, that's a bad example of a press nut. It looks like he de-burred the hole or really messed up when drilling it. There should be no sanding needed; just drill a clean hole, press in the nut and you are good to go.
 
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