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[Build Log] Liquorice Allsorts: CaseLabs S5 + Pedestal - Page 12

post #111 of 601
I got a few small and large chunks of something unidentifiable, may be it's copper flux (headscratcher) but mostly I just got nickel plating flakes and particles from the new XSPC nickel stop plugs that were NOT suppose to react with the Mayhems Blitz. headscratch.gif


     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 6800K from Siliconlottery binned at 4.4GH... Rampage V Edition 10, OH DEAR GOD! :) EVGA 980 KingPin Gskill TridentZ DDR4 3200MHz 14 latency 32GB Qu... 
Hard DriveCoolingOSKeyboard
Samsung 960 EVO 250GB NVMe SSD with AquaCompute... EK-R5E10 monoblock, EK-XTOP REVO Plexi, EK-RES ... Windows 10 64-Bit Happy Hacking HHKB Professional 2 Type - S whit... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Prime Titanium 850watt  CaseLabs Mercury S8S two-tone gunmetal interior... Logitech MX Master wireless Bluetooth in Gray a... Razer solid Aluminum 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 6700K 4.8GHz binned and delidded, absolut... Asus Maximus VIII Extreme, all original red acc... AMD WX 4100 Workstation Card Gskill TridentZ DDR4 3200MHz latency 14-14-14-3... 
Hard DriveCoolingOSKeyboard
Intel 750 NVMe SSD 400GB  EK D5 XRES REVO pump top/res with white res top... Windows 10 64-Bit HHKB Pro 2 Type-S white frame, white gray PBT ... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Snow Silent 750watt Platinum CaseLabs Mercury S8 Open Air Bench all gunmetal... Logitech MX Master in gray and white Razor Manticor Aluminum 
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Dell monitor soundbar from 2009 horrible : ( Hardware Labs satin white Multiport radiators i... 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 6800K from Siliconlottery binned at 4.4GH... Rampage V Edition 10, OH DEAR GOD! :) EVGA 980 KingPin Gskill TridentZ DDR4 3200MHz 14 latency 32GB Qu... 
Hard DriveCoolingOSKeyboard
Samsung 960 EVO 250GB NVMe SSD with AquaCompute... EK-R5E10 monoblock, EK-XTOP REVO Plexi, EK-RES ... Windows 10 64-Bit Happy Hacking HHKB Professional 2 Type - S whit... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Prime Titanium 850watt  CaseLabs Mercury S8S two-tone gunmetal interior... Logitech MX Master wireless Bluetooth in Gray a... Razer solid Aluminum 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 6700K 4.8GHz binned and delidded, absolut... Asus Maximus VIII Extreme, all original red acc... AMD WX 4100 Workstation Card Gskill TridentZ DDR4 3200MHz latency 14-14-14-3... 
Hard DriveCoolingOSKeyboard
Intel 750 NVMe SSD 400GB  EK D5 XRES REVO pump top/res with white res top... Windows 10 64-Bit HHKB Pro 2 Type-S white frame, white gray PBT ... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Seasonic Snow Silent 750watt Platinum CaseLabs Mercury S8 Open Air Bench all gunmetal... Logitech MX Master in gray and white Razor Manticor Aluminum 
AudioOther
Dell monitor soundbar from 2009 horrible : ( Hardware Labs satin white Multiport radiators i... 
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post #112 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Dual Pump Arrangement

I asked about separating the pumps from the rest of the build ... and in particular, separating them from themselves or joining them together with a hard fixture. I didn't get many replies about the pros / cons of each so I decided to separate each pump from the other ... and from the case.

I also went back and used the tube that I had with hot water before using the compression fittings. Hot water really changed the difficulty level from 'very high' to 'low to moderate'.

Here is a quick mock up ... note the following:
  • The pumps aren't anchored yet
  • The water direction is ...
    • down from the top right
    • around the loop (back left)
    • into the pump on the right
    • out of the pump on the right --> into the pump on the left
    • out of the pump on the left and up and over the right pump before ...
    • disappearing into the pedestal (not really shown with the white tubing above)

LiqAsrt-0133.jpg

Here is a SketchUp version of it ...

LiqAsrt-0130.jpg

This does cause some issues because the S5 SSD / HDD area is only 82.5mm deep ... while this pump configuration it at least 94mm deep. It also is fairly long and may impede the HDD location.

LiqAsrt-0131.jpg
LiqAsrt-0132.jpg


LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg

Edited by ruffhi - 3/17/16 at 5:46am
post #113 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Measure Twice, Cut Once - bahhh ... forget that!

Why measure twice and cut once when you can measure twice (or three times), drill multiple times and still get it wrong. Someone has to keep this economy ticking over ... and that job is mine.

I screwed up the drilling in the 120.2 mount as well as the 120.1 cover plate. I've ordered a new 120.1 from CaseLabs and I ordered a new 120.2 mount from TITAN RIG (Amazon) ... they were cheaper.


LiqAsrt-0134.jpg

LiqAsrt-0135.jpg

LiqAsrt-0136.jpg

I'm going to keep working on these (ruined) versions until I get everything just right. Then I'll have templates for when the proper ones turn up. Hey ... that sounds like a plan ... in fact ... this is what I was planning from the get go ... I am a genius!

LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg
post #114 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Pump Base, Take 2

Righto ... the first attempt didn't go to well. I drilled new holes in the 120.2 base (I also ordered a new one from TITAN RIG ... getting here on Tuesday) and moved the left pump forward ... that gave me some more room between the right pump and the elevated stand.

LiqAsrt-0137.jpg

With two dozen holes now in the fan cover, I marked the ones I wanted to keep. I also decided that that the 120.1 fan cover was too thin (0.9mm) and too big for a pump stand. So ... I marked up how big I wanted to new pump stand to be ...

LiqAsrt-0138.jpg

I also dug out a part that I didn't use in my NAS, a Nova X2M divider cover plate so that I can make a new pump stand. This plate is 1.8mm thick. Wrapped it in Frog tape, marked it out and used my jigsaw to cut it.

LiqAsrt-0139.jpg
LiqAsrt-0140.jpg

The holes for the pump need to be exact ... so this time, i measured once, marked once, checked multiple times. I also marked up the support plate with regards to which was the 'top' and which was the 'front' (ie the pump faces the front).

LiqAsrt-0141.jpg
LiqAsrt-0142.jpg

On the other hand, the holes that will be used for the 20mm green stand-offs can be anywhere on this plate. Marked them up, stamped them with a nail punch (or nail set).

LiqAsrt-0143.jpg
LiqAsrt-0144.jpg

Drill holes, remove tap and admire your handwork. I am much happier with this version that the last one.

LiqAsrt-0145.jpg
LiqAsrt-0146.jpg


LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg
post #115 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Air Leak Tester ... but forgot to test the tester

Remember this?

LiqAsrt-0074.jpg

I put this together following various posts in this overclock.net thread (How to correctly leak test your loop......101?). Someone posted there the other day that their tester had shown a leak but they couldn't find it in the loop. Various people replied asking if he had tested the tester.

I know I haven't tested my tester ... so I better test the tester to see if the tester passes the test.

Result: Fail.

I dunked it in a bucket of water and the air leaked out of the gauge ... or more accurately, the PSI gauge filled up with water. Air also came out of the junction between the 3/4" NPT male / 1/2" barb component and the gauge. I tightened the billo out of it but while that slowed the leak, it didn't stop it.

Any one got any suggestions?

LiqAsrt-0147.jpg


LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg

Edited by ruffhi - 3/22/16 at 9:55am
post #116 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Now For Something Completely Different

We have a dog (see my profile picture) who is a bit of a thief. His name is Dixon. He is an Irish Red & White setter and he comes already enabled for thiefery with his built in 'mask'. Various socks, paper towels and small toys would be forceable relocated to the back yard. One time, we lost a complete tray of brownies after he worked out how to open the fridge. Now he has worked out how to open the Kitchen trash drawer.

LiqAsrt-Trash-0149.jpg
LiqAsrt-Trash-0150.jpg

He isn't a bad dog ... just a dog with a mind of his own. He is a smart dog. Our other dog (Poppy, same breed) is outside and we can say to Dixon ... "Where is Poppy?" He will go outside and then report back that Poppy is outside. If we say "Get Poppy!" Dixon will go outside and bring Poppy back in.

What more could you ask for from a dog?


LiqAsrt-Trash-0151.jpg

So ... anyway ... time to make the Trash Cupboard Dixon-proof. My initial thought was some form of gate latch that we could either 'engage' or would automatically catch when we shut the trash draw. I was discussing this with my wife and she suggested magnets. Automatic, not obvious and a brilliant starting point. So ... here are some holes for the magnets.

LiqAsrt-Trash-0148.jpg

I then glued the magnets in with Gorilla glue.

LiqAsrt-Trash-0152.jpg
LiqAsrt-Trash-0153.jpg

Next step is to add some steel bands to the draw door that line up with the magnets. And then test if Dixon can overcome the attraction.

LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg
post #117 of 601
Where did you get those cool green standoffs?
post #118 of 601
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by willemdoom View Post

Where did you get those cool green standoffs?

Yeah - they are pretty good aren't they. I just know that I will be ordering some more at some point during this build.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Now ... let me see ... what else arrived? Did I mention that the two holes in the pumps are offset by 20mm. If I am going to elevate the pump plate by 20mm ... surely I will need some 20mm stand offs? Won't I? YES. So ... google to the rescue ... and I found these ... M3 x 20MM Aluminum Round Step Standoff – Green (4pcs). I also picked up 8 green M3 screws, paid postage and got change out of $6. Woot!
post #119 of 601
Thread Starter 
Reply from the 'air test your loop' thread ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post


Any one got any suggestions?

YES...!!!

1: Get a better guage - Some of the cheapies do actually leak of all things. I was using some automotive fuel pressure guages and have also used some go-kart tyre pressure guages as well.

The fuel pressure and go-kart tyre guages are usually scaled for 15 PSI max which suits our use well. This means that you will have better resolution than if you opted for a higher reading pressure guage.

2: Get rid of the teflon tape....!

I found that it can be extremely difficult to achieve an air tight seal with teflon tape - especially since G1/4" threads are not all that finely cut.

3: Grab yourself some low strength anerobic type pipe sealant.

I use this stuff: http://www.bondloc.co.uk/#/b567/4544523935 however Loctite and other similar brands may be more readily available in The US.

You just apply it to the threads as a thick liquid and screw them together (you don't even need to go crazy on the final torque required either) - Wipe away any excess and then wait about 30 mins to an hour to cure. With Bonloc 567 you have an instant air tight seal of up to 1,000 PSI and when fully cured it's up to 10,000 PSI....thumb.gif

Basically it works 100% better than teflon tape as it can fill very small & relatively large voids where the tape can not.

I have knocked up quite a few of these pressure test fixtures as I sold a number of them. Not once did I have a dud seal when using the liquid pipe sealant when assembling them.

Here are a couple of my examples.... Fuel and Tyre pressure guages:
post #120 of 601
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Next step is to add some steel bands to the draw door that line up with the magnets. And then test if Dixon can overcome the attraction.

This was a complete fail. The magnets and the steel strips did nothing to stop someone (hmmm!) opening the trash cupboard. Time to consider Door #2.
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