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[Build Log] Liquorice Allsorts: CaseLabs S5 + Pedestal - Page 31

post #301 of 601
Thread Starter 
I emailed Joe at ModMyMods about the various ODs of bending tubes that he had ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruff 
Joe,

I have a Monsoon bending kit and the Silicon Bending Insert that came with it measures about 8.2mm external diameter. I am using 3/8" internal, 1/2" external monsoon hard tubing.

Picture of insert ...
http://www.ruffhi.com/pics/LiquoriceBuild/LiqAsrt-0334-Bend.jpg

My bending technique is brand new but I don't think that such a loose bending tube is helping me.

I am looking at two bending inserts that you offer ...

Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert 30cm for ID 3/8" / 10mm HardTube - Blue (29119)
Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord - For 10mm ID HardTube - 1M Length (10MM)

... and was wondering if you could help with an external diameter measurement on both of them.

Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe's Reply 
Hey Ruff,

I measure both with a digital caliper.

The barrow is about 9.5mm and the Alphacool is about 9.75mm

That’s way too loose. Your bends at the angles with look a bit crunchy.

What does the inner diameter of that tubing come out to be in millimeters?

Best regard
Quote:
Originally Posted by more emails 
Joe,

Thanks for breaking out the calipers.

I measured the red tube (1/2 OD x 3/8 ID) with my calipers and it was ...
OD ... 12.45mm (12.7mm is 1/2" but 0.25mm seems to be within my measurement tolerance
ID ... 9.5mm (3/8" is 9.52mm)

So for the solid tube. 3/8" seems to be a pretty good measurement.

The monsoon silicone bending tube ... is harder to measure but I got 8.2mm OD ... hence the rather large gap I had in my picture.

Your 9.5mm for the barrow bending tube seems to be the way forward.

I'm going to order one.

Cheers,
Quote:
Originally Posted by Order Placed! 
1 x Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord - For 10mm ID HardTube - 1M Length (10MM)
1 x Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert 30cm for ID 3/8" / 10mm HardTube - Blue (29119)
4 x Barrow G1/4" Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Compression Fitting - Black (THKN-3/8-B03)
post #302 of 601
Good choice with the Barrow insert! They work really well with Bitspower acrylic tubes as well, atleast my 16mm variant does! smile.gif
post #303 of 601
Thread Starter 
Ruff ... why do you buy stuff from ModMyMods?
Why? Easy answer ... I can send them emails asking Questions about stuff (see above)
I can also order a half dozen items at 9:21am and get a shipping confirmation at 2:25pm the same day.
Finally, they are in NY and I live in MA ... usually only takes 2 days to ship to me.


I should have my rig up and running (water cooled) by the weekend.
post #304 of 601
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Ruff ... why do you buy stuff from ModMyMods?
Why? Easy answer ... I can send them emails asking Questions about stuff (see above)
I can also order a half dozen items at 9:21am and get a shipping confirmation at 2:25pm the same day.
Finally, they are in NY and I live in MA ... usually only takes 2 days to ship to me.


I should have my rig up and running (water cooled) by the weekend.

Oh Yeah ! cigar.gif
post #305 of 601
Thread Starter 
I decided I wasn't happy with how the tubes are running so I came up with a different layout. Naturally, this meant drilling a stonking great hole in my front panel ... which meant taking off the front panel ... which meant separating the case from the pedestal ... 7001 steps backwards.

BUT!

Stonking great big hole drilled ... had to stop for the night as my power drill ran out of power smile.gif.
post #306 of 601
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

Ruff ... why do you buy stuff from ModMyMods?
Why? Easy answer ... I can send them emails asking Questions about stuff (see above)
I can also order a half dozen items at 9:21am and get a shipping confirmation at 2:25pm the same day.
Finally, they are in NY and I live in MA ... usually only takes 2 days to ship to me.


I should have my rig up and running (water cooled) by the weekend.

It won't be up and running by the weekend ... USPS is saying 'Expected Delivery Day: Monday, July 18, 2016' mad.gif
post #307 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Isolation Switch for my Pumps?

Has anyone thought of adding an isolation switch for their pumps?

I've decided to investigate this option ... mainly so that I can take them offline when my loop is empty and not run the risk of running them when dry (I just know I will do this at some stage).

I have two pumps that only use 2 wires into a molex connector. I can put a splitter on to combine these into a single molex and then put one of these guys between that single connector and the PSU (only on the 12v power line) ... then I am thinking that I can turn on / off the pumps just with this switch (obviously, to have power on, I would have to have the PSU on as well).
Possible Isolation Switch (Click to show)

This will give me the ability to turn off the pumps but have everything else on.

Then I can have the pumps off when the loop is dry ... but I can also test my 'turn off the computer when the flow is zero' alarm that I would like to build into my system.

Any issues with this? Any improved suggestions?

LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg

Edited by ruffhi - 7/16/16 at 5:00pm
post #308 of 601
Interesting last bit. I'm also trying to figure out how to shutdown the comp in case of pump failure. I was thinking of running the RPM Header on the Aquaero to the CPU Fan header on the mobo and set an alarm in Aquasuite should the pump fail. Then, somehow configure the BIOS or Aquasuite to shutdown the computer if that alarm goes off. thinking.gif
post #309 of 601
Thread Starter 
I PM'd IT Diva my Q about a pump isolation switch. Her response could be described as pure IT Diva ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva PM Conversation 
Usually, guys might have an auxiliary PSU to power the pumps during filling/bleeding or leak testing, so that the loop flows while there's no power to the mobo or GPUs in case a leak develops.

Having a switch to disable pumps while the system can still power up is way more likely to bite you on the butt, than have enough positive aspects as to outweigh the negative.

If no one does something, it's always good to give thought as to why.

I can't think of a convincing reason to have your system be able to power on while having the pumps off.

That's a disaster waiting to happen, when you forget the pumps are off and walk or get called away, to do something else.

Also, I wouldn't use cheap switches on something as important as my cooling pumps . . .

I don't have the space or the power need (I think) for a 2nd PSU. My systems are usually on 24/7 so it isn't like I will be playing with the pump switch except when I explicitly need to. But ... the comment re a cheap switch is a good one. I might just install a junction (ie fittings) that I can pull apart when I want to turn the switch to the OFF position. That should give me the functionality of a switch without any of the down side.
post #310 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Big Stonking Hole

I mentioned above that I broke down my build to remove the front panel ... so that I could drill a big stonking hole (BSH) in it. Here is the hole ...

LiqAsrt-0342-BSH.jpg

Not the world's clearest picture regarding where in the case this hole is. It is just to the left of the 2nd top flex-bay when viewed from the front. On the inside of the case ... this is the channel I am using for running the cables from the power / reset switch as well as up to the Aquaero (top flex bay). I am now also going to use this channel for the water loop (more on that in a later post).

Here is the inside shot ... with the classic green tape (that I am actually running out of) ... also shown is the markings for the 4 x drill holes to attach the pass through recessed plate (also pictured with an F on it). I cut that recessed plate from some of my spare aluminium cut-offs.

The point of the recessed plate is that the pass-through will sit on the recessed plate and not on the front panel ... thus saving me 2 to 3 mm and ensuring that the plug doesn't run into the front cover panel. I used the same idea when installing my drain plug.


LiqAsrt-0343-BSH.jpg

Shot from the front with the four drill holes drilled. It is important to get the drill holes on the front panel looking nice ... the drill holes on the recessed plate are much less important. In fact, I did end up having to 'walk' two of them around a little.

LiqAsrt-0344-BSH.jpg

The important hole on the recessed plate is the actual pass-through hole ...

LiqAsrt-0345-BSH.jpg

... and drilling that pass-through hole in the right spot and as small as possible are the critical elements here ...

LiqAsrt-0346-BSH.jpg

Nice!

LiqAsrt-0347-BSH.jpg

Recessed plate attached at the back of the front panels with the top two drill holes showing their 'walk'. The bottom drill holes were Perfect (with a capital P).

LiqAsrt-0348-BSH.jpg

All screws attached ... the holes ... the BSH and the pass-through hole line up nicely biggrin.gif ...

LiqAsrt-0349-BSH.jpg

... and, finally, with the pass-through and plug installed.

LiqAsrt-0350-BSH.jpg


LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg
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