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[Build Log] Liquorice Allsorts: CaseLabs S5 + Pedestal - Page 10

post #91 of 601
Are those pass through fittings, and the only 3 that had a cosmetic issue?

If so, then I would say no worries. I agree that is probably from the wire that held the fittings while they were painted and since it won't show anyway they probably didn't worry about the cosmetic quality of that particular area. As long as the areas that show are good and the paint isn't flaking then go with it imo.
 
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post #92 of 601
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidonsu View Post

Some of my Barrow fittings had marks on the insides as well. I wasn't too concern with those. I am concerned about stripping paint on the threads that are now probably in my loop.

In yours, it looks like that's the way they were suspended when painted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Are those pass through fittings, and the only 3 that had a cosmetic issue?

If so, then I would say no worries. I agree that is probably from the wire that held the fittings while they were painted and since it won't show anyway they probably didn't worry about the cosmetic quality of that particular area. As long as the areas that show are good and the paint isn't flaking then go with it imo.

Thx for the reply and comments. Yep ... all pass through ... on areas that won't be exposed. I got 4 white ones and the 4th one looks fine. I also looked at the black ones ... but it is much harder to see any issues. I'll get my diamond loupe out and have a good, long, close look at them.
post #93 of 601
Official Forum Police Notice:

"We're terribly sorry but must politely inform you this thread has come to our distinct attention, is seems your fittings are just do darn sexy for this forum, and are causing the administration bouts of extreme anxiety, please remove your photos in a timely manner."

biggrin.gif

Hey are those Barrows fittings a lot cheaper than Bitspower? I just picked up (4) of the Bits 16mm hard fittings in white and it was $50, OUCH. But then you're using many more fittings than in my small build.

(4) 16mm hard fittings
(8) 7/16x5/8 soft compression fittings
(6) rotary adapter
(4) stop fittings
(2) thermal probes

... so guess I'm using (24) pieces in total. Plus have to get (6) extra stops to plug up all the unused ports in the two Multiport rads, grrrrr, so many extra little costs in a water build. rolleyes.gif


And your licorice also looks better than mine, no fair. redface.gif
     
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post #94 of 601
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBruce View Post

Hey are those Barrows fittings a lot cheaper than Bitspower?

52 Barrow fittings cost me about $205 ... plus 12 days waiting. The same in Bitspower would have cost me $430-ish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iBruce 
And your licorice also looks better than mine, no fair. redface.gif
Those aren't sweets. They are actually clay beads that I ordered special for this build.
post #95 of 601
Already got 12 out of 24 of my Bits deluxe white fittings, so I might as well go all the way, will consider Barrows during the next water change for the test bench rig.

Ruffhi, if you need help isolating your D5, just ask me, I've completed four perfectly inaudible D5 isolations, although they were all single pump. We can discuss in PM when you are ready if you don't want to talk about it here.


Here's some pics of past successful D5 inaudible mounts, each using a different CaseLabs chassis, and I only use AquaComputer D5s.




     
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post #96 of 601
Thread Starter 
I asked this question in the Aquaero thread as they seem to care about pumps the most (in the threads that I read). The plan was always to transport the post and their replies to my build log. I've got some replies in that thread ... but nothing cut and dry yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruffhi View Post

I have a question about my pumps. I will be putting two pumps in series and I wanted to isolate them from the case. I've got a CaseLabs 120.2 Accessory Mount as well as two Alphacool Decoupling Kits, a single 120 mount for one of the pumps (the one on the left below) and some 20mm stand-offs.

I'll be setting up my pumps to face each other (see picture). This picture shows the pump headers (no pumps yet) connected via a fixed Barrow fitting. That connection could also be via soft tubing. The outlet port (right) is offset 20mm up and to the right of the inlet port ... so the pump on the left is raised 20mm.


LiqAsrt-Pump-0102.jpg

As I see it, I have two options to isolate them.

Option A

The 120.2 accessory mount (pink box) is fixed to the case. The pump on the left uses the decouplers (red box) and is isolated (all by itself). The pump on the right also has some decouplers but they are attached to the 120.1 plate that is sitting on the 20mm stand-offs (green box). Again, the pump on the right is isolated (all by itself).

LiqAsrt-0119.jpg

Option B

In this option, the 120.2 accessory mount (pink box) is attached to the case by both sets of decouplers (red) with the pump on the right fixed to it and the pump on the left attached to the 120.2 via the stand-offs (green). The pumps are isolated from the balance of the case (and other goodies) but they are not isolated from each other.

LiqAsrt-0120.jpg

Which is better? Option A or B? Should I isolate the pumps from each other ... or does it not matter? I think that is the fundamental question.
post #97 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Fan Cable Sleeving

Last night the wife and I watched some crappy movie on TV. She knitted and I got more and more frustrated trying to shorten the length of a Cryorig fan cable and sleeve the sucker. The wire they use is a single flat piece that separates into four ... it is color coded (nice!) but it is thin. Thin, I say. So thin that the smallest hole in my wire stripper seems like the Grand Canyon in comparison. I ended up having to strip the wires with a knife. And then I couldn't get the green wire crimped. Stupid wire ended up a good 2 to 3 mm shorter than all of the others. All this anger, frustration, rude words sozo.gifwhistle.gif for a wire that was 2 inches shorter than it was originally. Bother that for a bad joke.

The other wires can just stay their own, individual length and thank their lucky starts that they weren't first.


LiqAsrt-0121.jpg

That first fan took me about 45 minutes. The second and third fan took me 5 minutes combined. I de-pinned the fan connector, removed the black sleeving put on the new sleeving, shrunk the shrink wrap and reinserted the pins. Both rads done. The rear fan stayed black.

I am still not sure if I will be putting stickers on the white fans ... or leaving them blank (white). I have one side currently with stickers and one without. The side with has the stickers pretty well centered ... except for the middle one which is making me sick just watching it. It certainly has the death wobbles.

LiqAsrt-0122.jpg
LiqAsrt-0123.jpg
LiqAsrt-0124.jpg


LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg
post #98 of 601
Thread Starter 
LiqAsrt-Header.jpg

Radiator Mesh

While looking at the radiators and the push fans ... I have been thinking about what to do with the other side. Originally, I was going to have a set of pull fans there ... but I decided that the S5 wasn't wide enough (sure ... other people have push / pull ... but I wasn't happy with the gap).

So ... I decided to put some hex mesh over the bare radiators. I have some nice silver mesh from CustomCarGrills but it is silver. Time to break out the spray can and see what I can do.


LiqAsrt-0125.jpg

This is the first time that I have used a spray can but I don't think that I am unprepared. I have seen enough build logs re painting various parts to (feel) prepared. I keep a dirty great big box just for this 'adventure', taped the flaps open, positioned it in a quiet, non-windy place, hung the object from a coat hanger that I can rotate to get better coverage, etc, etc.

This is a crap photo ... brilliantly focused on the back of the box. Unfortunately, this is the only one I took.


LiqAsrt-0126.jpg

Light sprays, well spaced, not to close, not to far ... just right. I think it came out rather well ... as did the bricks the box was sitting on frown.gif.

LiqAsrt-0127.jpg

And here is the finished product. Looking at this from the side, I am pretty happy with it. More green accent hidden on the inside of the pedestal that no one will ever see. Brilliant.

LiqAsrt-0128.jpg
LiqAsrt-0129.jpg


LiqAsrt-Footer.jpg
post #99 of 601
Wow, great job on that radiator meshwork, cool spraybox and hanging mechanism, and the results are pure genius. biggrin.gif


Glad someone had a nice productive day, I spent 6hours trying to pin and crimp one simple fan with zero success, stupid crimper thing, so much frustration, it was a very bad day in hobbyland.


Arrrggggh and Grrrrrrrr, sob sob sniffle sniffle. I suck at crimping. sad-smiley-002.gif


     
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post #100 of 601
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBruce View Post

Wow, great job on that radiator meshwork, cool spraybox and hanging mechanism, and the results are pure genius. biggrin.gif
Thanks. I also ordered some more as that single piece is all I got ... wasn't sure if I was going to use it but the sample was exactly what I was looking for. You can order 'scrap' parts from them and I picked up some pieces that were just the right size - much cheaper than the standard ones ... and some of the scraps are powder coated gloss black.


Quote:
Originally Posted by iBruce 
Arrrggggh and Grrrrrrrr, sob sob sniffle sniffle. I suck at crimping. sad-smiley-002.gif

See the post two up ... I started with a bad crimping task myself ... and gave up on it. Want some hints that I have picked up via using up too many pins?

1) Your stripped wire looks too long
2) I partially crimp the pin and then insert the stripped wire the 'correct' distance and then crimp the hell out of it
2a) What is the correct distance and how do you tell if you have put the wire in that far?

2a Answer ... about 1.5mm and I put a pen mark on the wire that distance back ... then insert the wire up to the pen mark. Ghetto but it works (for me).

Good luck with your crimping
smile.gif
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