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Questions from the past, i5-3570k temperatures?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Heya,

I've been sniffing around with the search function on the forums but it seems quite difficult to find an appropriate topic to post this into so I guess I'm left with my own.

Problem is, I'm curious if temperatures with said processor are fine when doing IBT(Intel Burn Test) @ around low 90 and at times to high 90s. (IBT Maximum)

With Prime95, they get to the low 80s. And the same temperature is whilst gaming.

My system specs are in my sub except cpu.

CPU:

Frequency: 4400 Mhz
Voltage: 1.224 (Idle) 1.208 (load) | BIOS 1.25
CPU PLL voltage: 1.7
Memory voltage: 1.55 (Default runs too but this is just in-case)
Vdroop offset control: 100%(Extreme)

Stability has been tested with this system on Prime95 24hours and it's stable and been running it for a week now. Was 4.2 for 2 years previously.

The reason for asking is this:

Should I delid it and reapply the paste between the die and IHS?

Because, from looking around, it seems that folks all get to 50/60 max under IBT kind of stress/load, when mine reaches almost 100 but stays low 80s while under reasonable load and/or gaming.

Amongst pastes, I've used the NT-H1 from Noctua and it seems good. My cooler is Arctic Freezer Extreme rev 2.0 with which I tried to install with CLU for the first time. I had a HyperX TV3 EVO before if I recall the name right.
Problem was, with CLU, I managed to increase my temps by near average 10 degrees after painting on CLU the second time I installed it. First installation with CLU went with the old cooler and that had the same result. I did take it off and bought the new cooler because the old one had alluminium fins connecting to the heat spreader causing it to corrode and turn black.

Freezer Extreme had no corrosion issues but CLU didn't really deliver here either. I don't know why, people praise it a lot but in my case the effect was opposite and when going back to my old paste it worked as expected earlier. So I got no real difference there. My goal was to increase CPU temp. effectiveness when I re-did my case internals and wiring some time ago.

Minor note on the side with CLU was that when I removed the cooling block, the CLU traces on the coolers copper base were on the sides, very few drops of it on the middle, whilst the processor itself was shining all over and had no traces of installation as if anything had been on to it. In other words, the CPU IHS was covered fully with CLU just as when I had painted it following the instructions that CoolLaboratory folks send the stuff with.

Now I don't know, but I've raised the thought that improper connection between the IHS and cooling unit could be the reason why CLU received a 10C on average increase vs. NT-H1 on the IHS, so I kind of started to accuse a minor bend on the CPU but I doubt it, with 2 different blocks, results are exactly the same. NT-H1 installation I've done using the line method in correspondance to the CPU die position. A small 2-3mm diameter line of paste.
Then again the reason why paste might be working could just simply be that it is thicker perhaps? But I doubt that too.

Main question though, is that what do you guys think? Should I delid it to perhaps get the same effect of reducing load temps down to what I have idle right now? And with the process win a bit more on stability and perhaps even raise clock cycles?
Also obivously, worth the risk?

Thanks for reading.
post #2 of 10
Defiantly delid it! As long as you are careful and be ready to get a replacement chip if you F up! On my delids average temp drops were around 20-25c. My advice to you is only use CLU on the die and mx4 of whatever other paste you like on the IHS. The reason I don't like CLU on the IHS is if you ever want to sell you cpu CLU will take the writing off the cpu at times during the cleaning of and reapplying paste and it also doesn't help but maybe a few degrees on the IHS.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
It's too late for selling because I've done exactly that. Scrubbed the writing off during the first and also second applications.

All of the important bits I can recall is that it is manufactured in Costa Rica.

Any real clue on as to why the temperature was actually higher with CLU on the IHS though?
I'm curious on that department as well because they obviously praise it to be better and the official retailer even shows instruction videos on the IHS.
post #4 of 10
honestly temps were worse for 2 reasons one you most likely applied clu incorrectly and the second and bad mount. Because with clu applied right temps will drop over any other paste out there basically. You need just a nice small layer completely even.
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
It's a possibility.

I followed the video instructions carefully and used the brush on the second application on the new block. The first application I did with a pea method on the old cooling block which caught a small corrosion layer instantly due to the alluminium elements there but showed an identical 10 degree increase compared to the new block. Both 10 degrees higher on average and most importantly, noticeable difference in Core#0 being near 10 degrees cooler than package and the other 3 under load. On idle, 3-5 degree difference.

Currently the load temperatures vary within 3-5 still but across all cores? exactly as before I started with it, which indicates some possible problems towards the TIM? within the chip but still kind of doesn't explain the lesser performance of CLU on both occasions across the board?
On the first CLU application on the old block, when I removed the block. The TIM was spread as usually seen with pastes, so hmm yeah, confusing.

The delidding process is probably worth it already in general regardless of the paste issues.

Any more opinions?
post #6 of 10
if temps are worse you did it incorrectly for sure. When you cleaned it off did you use the pad for removal and 91% alcohol to clean up IHS and block as well? Tip for delidding not really I did all of mine with a razor flawlessly never damaged one chip. take your time and be patient. Maybe stress the cpu with prime or IBT a bit before taking it out to delid to help heat the glue intel uses to hold it down to the PCB. I bought my razors at Walgreens they come in like a ten pack in a black case they are extremely flat and was easy to work with. Also if your using a razor wear gloves so you don't accidently cut yourself and hurt your fingers with the amount of pressure being used to hold the blade and cut through the glue as you slide it around the IHS.

here is a test I ran today for 10+ hours at a little over 1.2 volts for 4.4ghz to give you an idea of temps to expect at around this voltage. My rig specs are up to date FYI and using a h100

post #7 of 10
oh yea and tips for applying CLU, once you start with the brush never switch sides keep using the same part of the brush you started with. Also you have to just barely touch the CLU to spread it I mean almost like you are going just above the CLU as if you are air painting. this will help you tons I believe and help it spread easier and faster. Here is a picture of what it should look like when finished.

Edited by enigma7820 - 2/10/16 at 5:06pm
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma7820 View Post

oh yea and tips for applying CLU, once you start with the brush never switch sides keep using the same part of the brush you started with. Also you have to just barely touch the CLU to spread it I mean almost like you are going just above the CLU as if you are air painting. this will help you tons I believe and help it spread easier and faster. Here is a picture of what it should look like when finished.

That's really neat looking. It's exactly how I did it on the 2nd installation as well. I used the alcohol sheet provided prior to the 2nd one with the twin-tower block installation.
All is looking pretty identical in those regards. I'm having thoughts that it is very likely the TIM on the die that is the problem indeed.

Speaking of razorblades. I'm afraid I'm not exactly where you are from.

I'm probably gonna have to check my local shops on my own for what I can salvage there among the thinnest and strongest parts before I do it as I can't exactly go to Walgreens. I live in Estonia, eastern Europe. Although I've been to US before, it's simply not a possibility smile.gif. Thanks for the advice on the toolkit and technique department though, very useful, and the pictures.

The brushing was rather difficult overall indeed and as I recall it(although it was 3 days ago now IIRC, dunno, I work night shifts so my days fly by) I think I used one side of the brush as well mainly since it bent solid to one side and absorbing the liquid into the other side didn't really seem to be a wise idea. So that bit kind of came naturally.

As far as temperatures on your picture, it is exactly like that. Except your load is my idle, spot on.

PS. How many CPU power phases do you have on that Sabertooth motherboard? Mine has only 4. This is a bit off-topic but I fear that I may have power delivery issues/VRM problems but it's still an investigation ongoing.
post #9 of 10
Ok since your idle temps are my load temps and your sure you applied it good than it's the block not making enough contact with the ihs or it's crooked or something you have to get this figured out before you delid otherwise I fear it will be trouble even after you delid idle tempsnshould be low 30s high 20s
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
Funny enough, my investigation led me to reflash my BIOS a day ago.

And with just the OC genie mode on, set to 4.2Ghz 1.108V or so so, temperatures are in the high 30s and low 40s. I managed to shave off 20 degrees out of thin air doing this. On idle. Load temperatues, including IBT strike mid 60s and longer runs reach low 70s.

Fascinating...

Still doesn't go to explain the 10 degree average rise with CLU though but it's another drop of knowledge in the bucket regarding troubleshooting. As to where some troubles may lie...

It's funny to think about, the motherboard managed to somehow cook the CPU up properly, even though these are idle temperatures. Before the reflash, 4.2Ghz OC Genie was also 60+ idle so yeah.

Partially resolved some of my temperature issues right there and came closer to my goal of lowering it in overall. This enlightenment may actually lead me to simply leave it as is, because these are already okay-ish heat values and won't really get me much in delidding, other than risk and 10 degrees perhaps.

The crooked IHS is something I'm going to still look into though.
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