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Second SL 5960x purchase, got a 5GHz chip.

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Well my first SL binned 5960x (4.6GHz) bit the dust a month ago. Just unexpectedly out of the blue. People suspect it was cache voltage, (1.3v max) but it could be anything. Maximum cache on this was 4.5GHz, typically 4.375-4.4ghz though under a 'safer' 1.25v.
Intel RMA'd it, got one that performed similarly, worked fine at the same speeds and about the same cache. RAM capability unchanged. They both allowed me to run 4.7-4.75 on occasion, but heavy multithreaded loads were not reliable.

Well with tax season and an email that popped up in my inbox.. "4.7GHz 5960x available!". I said the hell with it and made my purchase. Got it in 3 business days, and, once again, exceeds my expectations.

5 GHz core (currently 1.375v)
4.7GHz cache (dialed in to exactly 1.3v)
Also out of 4 chips, this is the first one that is stable using the 100MHz BCLK strap at the same time as setting 3000MHz quad channel RAM (4x8GiB) @ 15-15-15-35-1T.
Seems to be stable in typical multi-threaded loads. 3dmark11 passed, cinebench, ran a 16-threaded copy of simulationcraft for about an hour (Program to simulate combat routines of world of warcraft), no problems. I intend to run these speeds 24/7

For the record, not prime/IBT/LinX stable. This chip seems to need to be at 4.6ghz or lower to be prime stable. Previous chips were prime stable at 4.5ghz.


Edited by ssateneth - 2/12/16 at 1:02pm
post #2 of 13
Incredible chip, have fun with it smile.gif
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Tsar Bomba mk IV
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post #3 of 13
-1C minimum? Are you on a TEC chiller? Great temps too!
post #4 of 13
The silicon you get from the highest SL bins is always fantastic. My 4.7 5960X and 5820K from them both also had outstanding memory controllers.
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post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mouacyk View Post

-1C minimum? Are you on a TEC chiller? Great temps too!

Liquid cooling loop, but radiator is outside in the cold Wisconsin air, Distilled water + ethanol mix. Current -21C outside. It's hard to get temperatures close to outside ambient; the coldest I have on a sensor so far is -7C on a GPU. I don't think my custom sensor is adhering well to one of the cold spots as it's only detecting -2C at the moment.
post #6 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssateneth View Post

Liquid cooling loop, but radiator is outside in the cold Wisconsin air, Distilled water + ethanol mix. Current -21C outside. It's hard to get temperatures close to outside ambient; the coldest I have on a sensor so far is -7C on a GPU. I don't think my custom sensor is adhering well to one of the cold spots as it's only detecting -2C at the moment.

I've thought about doing something similar in the summer to pump the heat outside and then switch to an internal rad in winter to use the heat inside. Do you not have trouble with condensation with such cold water inside? Do you have your lines and blocks insulated in your machine?
 
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post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
I live dangerously. I had no condensation to speak of since its already very dry in the house, winter air and all. But below freezing attracts water rather fast. It builds up around metal that touches both the liquid and the air, so parts of the barbs got some ice buildup, and the edges of the cold plates (aka waterblocks). When it warms up outside, I'll keep an eye on it and place cloth as necessary.

As far as your switching thing goes, feasible, but liquid will stagnate in the parts that's switched off.
post #8 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssateneth View Post

I live dangerously. I had no condensation to speak of since its already very dry in the house, winter air and all. But below freezing attracts water rather fast. It builds up around metal that touches both the liquid and the air, so parts of the barbs got some ice buildup, and the edges of the cold plates (aka waterblocks). When it warms up outside, I'll keep an eye on it and place cloth as necessary.

As far as your switching thing goes, feasible, but liquid will stagnate in the parts that's switched off.

I would be so paranoid of water dripping somewhere and I would be constantly watching the dew point of the inside air lol. That is living dangerously.

I think I should have it under control. I'll be using a 9x140mm giant radiator outside. I'll be rebuilding my main rig in a Caselabs SMA8. I already have the case and most of the parts I need, I just need to get moved to my new house and get the project going. I'll have a 560 and a 280 in the bottom of the case and use a ball valve on the return line from those rads to the pump to stop the flow of coolant through them. I'll have a couple of quick-disconnects running outside to the external rad. To switch between them I would just plug/unplug the external lines and open or close the ball valve inside. I would bring in the external rad in Winter and drain and clean it. I'll circulate the coolant in the lower rads in Summer by opening the valve for a while every week or so to keep the coolant from sitting too long in the same place, allowing the whole system to mix. It will be a bit of an experiment but I've been trying to think everything through and I'm pretty confident it will work well
 
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Hitachi 5TB Samsung 500GB SSD CD/DVD/BluRay Custom water cooling 
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Windows 10 Acer Predator x34 AOC i2769Vm Gateway KX2153 
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post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzywinks View Post

I would be so paranoid of water dripping somewhere and I would be constantly watching the dew point of the inside air lol. That is living dangerously.

I think I should have it under control. I'll be using a 9x140mm giant radiator outside. I'll be rebuilding my main rig in a Caselabs SMA8. I already have the case and most of the parts I need, I just need to get moved to my new house and get the project going. I'll have a 560 and a 280 in the bottom of the case and use a ball valve on the return line from those rads to the pump to stop the flow of coolant through them. I'll have a couple of quick-disconnects running outside to the external rad. To switch between them I would just plug/unplug the external lines and open or close the ball valve inside. I would bring in the external rad in Winter and drain and clean it. I'll circulate the coolant in the lower rads in Summer by opening the valve for a while every week or so to keep the coolant from sitting too long in the same place, allowing the whole system to mix. It will be a bit of an experiment but I've been trying to think everything through and I'm pretty confident it will work well

Alright, well after a number of occasions more than I can count on my hand, ice thawing under load is a problem. CPU part is less resistant to water-related issues, but my GPU's really hate water.

BUT

I also learned near everything is really resilient after water-related shutdowns/crashes.

Turns out with coolant just below freezing is a problem, as I have to deal with freezing and thawing under load. Not even 5 minuutes ago, I got a WHEA uncorrectable doing some furmark. Afterwards, the LED for PCI-E slot #4 was blinking. "Thats a new one" I thought. Looked down by the GPUs (which I had -just- stuffed with paper cloth to deal with some of the thawing issues) and there was about 6 spots on the motherboard with liquid, 3 of which were clouded with white particles that were on some chips. Oops.

Cut the AC power, dabbed up the liquid with some cloth, scrubbed the spots with a toothbrush with alcohol, dabbed again, and used an air compressor to blow and evaporate any remaining liquid.

And it booted right back up. Same clocks stable. GPU's fully stable too. And my +12v sensor is now reporting accurate numbers too again!

Yeah, water 'leaks' suck. But not necessarily death. Lesson learned? At least implement -some- protection against ice and thawing. If you want to be able to sell the computer parts later and not have to paint on some stuff to waterproof the parts, at least jam/bind some cloth or paper towel to areas where you think water will condense on. Anything metal that touches the water and air will attract water/ice. Plastic and rubbers, not so much; barely any.

Anyways, besides the point. 5GHz chip still kicking it strong. Thank you SL.
Edited by ssateneth - 2/13/16 at 3:17pm
post #10 of 13
Im sure you still hit the silicon lottery, its a golden chip, but no way is it gonna be stable once the temperature outside warms up.

I live in wisconsin too and its gonna be in the 20's tomorrow. I'm betting that will be enough to cause instability. There is no such thing as a 5ghz 5960x at normal air temperatures.

Still it's gotta be cool to be able to run benches at 5ghz with that thing. You might be the only person on the planet running one at 5ghz right now.
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