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Dram Overclock 1.65v 28 watts. - Page 2

post #11 of 21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nukemaster View Post

I did not know memory took THAT much power(7 watts per stick in your case) even when overclocked.

I have run heatsinkless memory at 1.65 volts before without issues.

Can confirm. 5V 40mm fans? Still enough to cool naked DDR3-2400. The heatspreaders were too high for the case so I had to improvise...

7W per DIMM sounds very high. Everything I've seen claims 2-4W depending on a number of factors. Kingston rates one of their 1.5V 1600MT/s DIMMs at 2.58W. Pretty precise. If we assume power goes up linearly with frequency and by the square of the voltage, then my 1.65V DDR3-2400 should only hit 4.7W per DIMM.

OP, not sure what's going on. My RAM is two-thirds as fast as yours, so we'd expect 20W if your setup is indicative of anything. However it's only showing about 10W in Prime95. My best guess is that you have some kind of faulty power sensor. And don't worry, that happens a lot. AMD systems are notoriously bad about this for example.
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post #12 of 21
Thread Starter 
gotta up the post count wink.gif
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
just kidding biggrin.gif

so could be faulty sensors

and i gotta say i used prime95 blend for it. not any other test.
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post #13 of 21
My old hardware does not monitor memory power consumption so I am no help to you.

My only heat spreaders are too tall improvising was this. The heatsinks are not needed anyway(1.5v, 667(1333) @ 9,9,9,24).
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post #14 of 21
Thread Starter 
how did you get it off? i hear they glue them on.

Useless metal on memory. thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif
these companies shouldnt be putting them on if theres no need.
drives cost up. dont know how much.
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post #15 of 21
It is kind of a marketing thing(or being ready for anything). I need to stop talking. I put heatsinks on opamps tongue.gif

Gskill has those spreaders on with thick thermal tape(thick like a pad).

I just used a blade to gently cut in on the spreader size and then remove what was left on the memory. I was actually pretty easy.

It is also the reason my Gaming PC lost its ram(needed it more in the other computer). Then I actually ran out of memory playing something and had to go get more(blue this time. My black/red board looks great with blue memory tongue.gif).

Do watch out when removing memory heatsinks since ram is only held on with solder balls(DDR2 and newer i think) many times and some companies(Patriot has done it) thermal epoxy those things on(I would guess that is the ram that actually needs it).
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post #16 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pointy View Post

how did you get it off? i hear they glue them on.

Useless metal on memory. thumbsdownsmileyanim.gif
these companies shouldnt be putting them on if theres no need.
drives cost up. dont know how much.

Heat spreaders are mostly for looks than anything. A color specific build with ram w/ out heat spreaders would look so dull and an eye sore. DDR3 does get warm, especially if you push voltage through them with little to no air flow. But active cooling is just not needed.

As long as you have decent case flow, (or a small fan if on a test bench) you'll be fine.
    
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post #17 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nukemaster View Post

It is kind of a marketing thing(or being ready for anything). I need to stop talking. I put heatsinks on opamps tongue.gif

Gskill has those spreaders on with thick thermal tape(thick like a pad).

I just used a blade to gently cut in on the spreader size and then remove what was left on the memory. I was actually pretty easy.

It is also the reason my Gaming PC lost its ram(needed it more in the other computer). Then I actually ran out of memory playing something and had to go get more(blue this time. My black/red board looks great with blue memory tongue.gif).

Do watch out when removing memory heatsinks since ram is only held on with solder balls(DDR2 and newer i think) many times and some companies(Patriot has done it) thermal epoxy those things on(I would guess that is the ram that actually needs it).

Even better - I used to a screwdriver to snap the metal clips apart and then used a Lego brick separator (any ABS plastic wedge works just as well) to get a place to grip the heatspreader. After that, I just pulled it off. Did you know that circuit boards are flexible? Maybe I got lucky, but it didn't snap! thumb.gif

That said, unless space is an issue, there's no real reason to remove them, but at the same time adding them in the first place is pointless. DDR2 back in the day needed it - 2V and 1200MT/s overclocked got hot - but DDR3 of any kind onwards just don't need cooling. Well, it does if you're trying to hit world record overclocks, but anything remotely usable in a 24/7 system doesn't need anything special past a tiny bit of airflow.
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post #18 of 21
Thread Starter 
i have an evo in standard configuration. so it must be pulling air over the rams.

i like the look with no fancy branding on it just bare blue pcb.
heres what mine looks like. 4 hynix sticks thats a google photo not mine.

Edited by Pointy - 2/13/16 at 9:24pm
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post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CynicalUnicorn View Post

Even better - I used to a screwdriver to snap the metal clips apart and then used a Lego brick separator (any ABS plastic wedge works just as well) to get a place to grip the heatspreader. After that, I just pulled it off. Did you know that circuit boards are flexible? Maybe I got lucky, but it didn't snap! thumb.gif

That said, unless space is an issue, there's no real reason to remove them, but at the same time adding them in the first place is pointless. DDR2 back in the day needed it - 2V and 1200MT/s overclocked got hot - but DDR3 of any kind onwards just don't need cooling. Well, it does if you're trying to hit world record overclocks, but anything remotely usable in a 24/7 system doesn't need anything special past a tiny bit of airflow.

My motherboard flexes very scary.
Edited by Pointy - 2/13/16 at 9:24pm
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post #20 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by CynicalUnicorn View Post

Even better - I used to a screwdriver to snap the metal clips apart and then used a Lego brick separator (any ABS plastic wedge works just as well) to get a place to grip the heatspreader. After that, I just pulled it off. Did you know that circuit boards are flexible? Maybe I got lucky, but it didn't snap! thumb.gif

That said, unless space is an issue, there's no real reason to remove them, but at the same time adding them in the first place is pointless. DDR2 back in the day needed it - 2V and 1200MT/s overclocked got hot - but DDR3 of any kind onwards just don't need cooling. Well, it does if you're trying to hit world record overclocks, but anything remotely usable in a 24/7 system doesn't need anything special past a tiny bit of airflow.
I am not too worried about flex(to an extent. At some point solder joins would be stressed), but I did not know how strong or weak the thermal tape was. I would hate to loose a chip on perfectly good memory(but in my case it had to come off to clear the cpu cooler.).

If i warmed them up a bit it may have come off even more easy.

I would never try to remove my patriot stuff(would take off the chips almost certainly).

My old OCZ memory on the other hand lost its heat spreaders without help(was very surprised how bad this stuff was.).
Edited by Nukemaster - 2/14/16 at 7:13am
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