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Liquid cooling overheating issues. - Page 5

post #41 of 58
I´m running an EK Supramacy CSQ from 2014 with my 4770k clocked to 4,7Ghz and even under Prime FPU my temps never go past 70.
With Aida and other tests they normaly stay below 65. And with more normal tests like Realbench and stuff they stay around 50

So my vote goes to the EK smile.gif

Edit: It was 50€ back in 2014
Edited by acanom - 2/22/16 at 3:22am
post #42 of 58
Thread Starter 
"Or you know just buy a real block tongue.gif I mean he has a 980 and he can afford a real waterblock, EK MX, Raystorm they are like 50 bucks."

I actually got my evga 980 sc acx 2.0 for $350 as a new "sealed box" refurbish card from ebay XD

and, 2 weeks and it blew up. I removed the vrm heat shield to find 4 blow resistors and a leaking cap.

I used evga's program and purchased a new one and will be sending the faulty unit in for a refund.

__

I cheaped out and bought a $25 block with micro channels and a actual jet plate and my temps are fine now. I'll pick up an EK block when Extra funds come in.

I never got to install the water block on the 980 but I did set up my whole system to see how it would ruffly look

post #43 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekgnome View Post

"Or you know just buy a real block tongue.gif I mean he has a 980 and he can afford a real waterblock, EK MX, Raystorm they are like 50 bucks."

I actually got my evga 980 sc acx 2.0 for $350 as a new "sealed box" refurbish card from ebay XD

and, 2 weeks and it blew up. I removed the vrm heat shield to find 4 blow resistors and a leaking cap.

I used evga's program and purchased a new one and will be sending the faulty unit in for a refund.

__

I cheaped out and bought a $25 block with micro channels and a actual jet plate and my temps are fine now. I'll pick up an EK block when Extra funds come in.

I never got to install the water block on the 980 but I did set up my whole system to see how it would ruffly look


Ya see thats what I am saying, You could buy a good block for like 50 dollars, you could buy a good block that is used for probally 25 to 30, the money you will spend buying crap blocks will add up to more and eventually you will end up with a real one lol. Even if you paid 350 for the card , a good block is 50 - 60 bucks thats like eating at Mcdonalds 5 or 6 times. However to each there own your rig good luck smile.gif.
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post #44 of 58
Thread Starter 
Ya, If I could do it over again I'd definitely would have just picked up an actual name brand block to begin with. $80 or so new with the color of led's i want.

I suppose its a good mistake to learn from, liquid cooling just isnt a good place to go cheap on. Might as well buy the parts once and do it right.

Now if I can find barbs that dont leak, I dont seem to have much luck with compression fittings and tight bends.
post #45 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekgnome View Post

Ya, If I could do it over again I'd definitely would have just picked up an actual name brand block to begin with. $80 or so new with the color of led's i want.

I suppose its a good mistake to learn from, liquid cooling just isnt a good place to go cheap on. Might as well buy the parts once and do it right.

Now if I can find barbs that dont leak, I dont seem to have much luck with compression fittings and tight bends.

Never had a barb leak, but then I've always used "ugly" worm drive clamps and thick tube.
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post #46 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero4549 View Post

Never had a barb leak, but then I've always used "ugly" worm drive clamps and thick tube.

Hmm see I am the opposite, I have always tried to use worm drives and always had bad luck with those. Whenever I use worm drives it cause me a leak, there very fiddly if they are not tight enough it leaks if there too tight it leaks. At least that has been my experience, Zip Ties tend to be less prone to leaks. The problem as I see it with worm drives is they have the pinch effect and make a section of the tube stick off from the barb.

All that said, I think the brand and type of tube plays a major role. I mainly use PCALRT and Norprene, The LRT hates zip ties lol but the Norprene loves it and vice versa for the Worm Clamps. Same thing with compression's some of them the norprene just falls out and others, you can not pull it out if you try (I have tried) and the LRT slides right out. Of course that does affect me anymore, as I use to love LRT until I got my first taste of norprene and thats the only soft tube I will use now.

The compression's go on easier and the tube is much more secure in most fittings its just all around 10000 times better than any other tube at all. Best of all it is easier to bend, Lasts longer, and NO plasticizer gunk! plus it looks awesome IMO. It is very expensive though so theres that smile.gif.
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post #47 of 58
The effectiveness of worm drives can also depend on the barbs themselves. I know this firsthand as we have a lot of glassware in our lab that use worm drives to secure tygon tubing to the glass barbs, but for a few vendors and certain pieces of equipment we're much better off using thick gauge copper wire to tie the tubings to the barbs.
Edited by magnek - 2/24/16 at 12:32pm
post #48 of 58
You guys are right that the barb design can cause issues, especially if you don't take it into account when positioning the clamp. I exclusively use barbs with two or more (closely spaced) flanges. As always, the clamp should be placed directly onto the flange to create a proper seal, but with single flange barbs the slightest imperfection in clamp placement, machining, or barb machining, can cause issues. With double or triple flange designs, the tube is allowed to lay flat instead of "pinching" away on one side or the other in the event that alignment isn't perfectly precise, and the redundancy makes tiny imperfections much less likely to turn into leaks.

I mentioned closely spaced above, because very widely spaced flanges can be just as bad as single flanges. If the clamp cannot lay across all the flanges at the same time, you might as well consider them to be single flange barbs and treat them as such.
Edited by Zero4549 - 2/24/16 at 12:28pm
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post #49 of 58
Thread Starter 
Yes, its the worm drive clamps im having a problem with. they cause the tube to bend in an oval and leak frown.gif

I tried compression fittings but the tube wants to slide off at angles < 90*.

I have alot of zip ties so i could always rig up a test pump and see how well they seal with the cheap tubing i have.

has any one used locktight silicone sealant on the barbs to form fit the tubes. Ive been using it on the top thread in my fittings for a permanent seal, being careful not to over apply of course.
post #50 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekgnome View Post

Yes, its the worm drive clamps im having a problem with. they cause the tube to bend in an oval and leak frown.gif

I tried compression fittings but the tube wants to slide off at angles < 90*.

I have alot of zip ties so i could always rig up a test pump and see how well they seal with the cheap tubing i have.

has any one used locktight silicone sealant on the barbs to form fit the tubes. Ive been using it on the top thread in my fittings for a permanent seal, being careful not to over apply of course.

The tubing shouldn't slide out of the compression fitting. Are you using the right sizes? I can't even pull the ones out of the build I just did. If the angle causes an issue, you should look into angled adapters.
Edited by Jidonsu - 2/24/16 at 3:44pm
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