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Broken switch stem

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Is there a way to replace the brown part of the switch? I have a broken donor keyboard that has MX browns as well.
This is a Cooler Master QuickFire Rapid-i

Edited by Dirtyworks - 2/19/16 at 11:41am
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post #2 of 7
yup, the brown part is called the 'slider' and you can replace just it, or the entire switch, doesn't really matter either way.


Here is the part that most people get upset over, to fix this, you will need to desolder the switch, no ifs ands or buts.

But, a trip to radioshack, $20, and a new switch stem and you're good to go.

Basically, you'll need to open the keyboard, desolder both the LED and the switch, remove the led and switch from the plate, solder in the new switch, and solder in the led, and button it all back together.

To replace just the slider, do the above, but then you'll need to open up the switch housing to get to the slider.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Well, damn. Fortunately, I don't quite need that button. I'll fix it some other time.
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post #4 of 7
EDIT: not sure if the LED changes things...

It's possible to open the switch and replace the slider without desoldering from the PCB. I'm not saying it's easy but you might as well give it a shot and use one of your donors.

A quick search found this:
post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
I'm not sure about the Quickfire, but my other keyboards are plate mounted. So I'm going to have to desolder anyway.
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post #6 of 7
PCB mounted switches can be opened without desoldering, but ()typical plate mounted switches cannot.

Technically, an intelligently designed plate mount could avoid this inconvenience while still retaining all the benefits of a typical plate mount, and has in fact been done with the DIY "Phantom" keyboards. That said, it doesn't seem any manufacturers are interested in implementing such design at the moment, so for now, the first line holds true (unless you have a phantom, in which case you would already be familiar with the process, as you assembled the entire keyboard yourself).
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post #7 of 7
There's an LED he has to remove before opening the switch, thus he'll have to open the kb either way and at least desolder the LED (to open the switch and replace the stem).

OP, you could also try epoxy glue/liquid welding, but that's gonna be a weak connection. By the way, did it happen during everyday use or due to (incorrect) cap removal? QFRi MX Brown owner here.
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