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[Build Log] Red-Black Fusion (Corsair Air 540, 5820K, R5E, 780GTX, 950 Pro, 280 Rads) - Page 3

post #21 of 32
Thread Starter 
Some more daylight shots.







    
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post #22 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Is the rear fan intake? For that case it should be exhaust almost always I think.

Yah, it's the rear fan. I'm using it as intake so that one, there is positive air preassure to keep dust out, and two, to feed a bit more cool air to the top rad (otherwise it would be fed only by the front rad's exhaust).

EDIT: I meant placebo cause I could not mount it flat on the case but had to leave a gap all around because of the damn sidepanel overlapping.
Edited by pennover - 3/9/16 at 8:23am
    
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post #23 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by pennover View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Is the rear fan intake? For that case it should be exhaust almost always I think.

Yah, it's the rear fan. I'm using it as intake so that one, there is positive air preassure to keep dust out, and two, to feed a bit more cool air to the top rad (otherwise it would be fed only by the front rad's exhaust).

Ok, so this is my #1 preferred case right now for my next build soon but the plasticky looking panels turn me off so much. I have done a lot of reading, research, looking, and handling of this case and seems the best scenerio is front should be intake, top intake if rad and exhaust if air, and rear almost always exhaust. This case is compact and designed with a very specific flow pattern.

Now take all that with a grain of salt because I've never actually built in the case, buy food for thought maybe?
 
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post #24 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Ok, so this is my #1 preferred case right now for my next build soon but the plasticky looking panels turn me off so much. I have done a lot of reading, research, looking, and handling of this case and seems the best scenerio is front should be intake, top intake if rad and exhaust if air, and rear almost always exhaust. This case is compact and designed with a very specific flow pattern.

Now take all that with a grain of salt because I've never actually built in the case, buy food for thought maybe?

Oh, I see. That sounds good but would mean dumping a LOT of hot air into the case. Might be too much for the components and maybe not as efficient? Don't know, would be an interesting experiment. I can only tell you that with my layout, the inside already get very hot. You can feel the heat already when holding a hand up in the vicinity of the side panel.
    
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post #25 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by pennover View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Ok, so this is my #1 preferred case right now for my next build soon but the plasticky looking panels turn me off so much. I have done a lot of reading, research, looking, and handling of this case and seems the best scenerio is front should be intake, top intake if rad and exhaust if air, and rear almost always exhaust. This case is compact and designed with a very specific flow pattern.

Now take all that with a grain of salt because I've never actually built in the case, buy food for thought maybe?

Oh, I see. That sounds good but would mean dumping a LOT of hot air into the case. Might be too much for the components and maybe not as efficient? Don't know, would be an interesting experiment. I can only tell you that with my layout, the inside already get very hot. You can feel the heat already when holding a hand up in the vicinity of the side panel.

Well that's a perfect reason why that rear fan needs to be exhaust imo. Also remember since your water cooling the case temp isn't as important because the component temp is being transferred to the water. What you really want to know is under load what is the water temp compared to the ambient room temp, that will tell you how well the loop is performing regardless of actual temps inside the case.

Edit: Also with top and front as intake that should give you plenty of positive pressure to push that warm air out anywhere it can, so in effect you want to feel that warm air coming out the vents, that means positive pressure is working as intended.
Edited by Radnad - 3/9/16 at 8:49am
 
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post #26 of 32
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Well that's a perfect reason why that rear fan needs to be exhaust imo. Also remember since your water cooling the case temp isn't as important because the component temp is being transferred to the water. What you really want to know is under load what is the water temp compared to the ambient room temp, that will tell you how well the loop is performing regardless of actual temps inside the case.

Edit: Also with top and front as intake that should give you plenty of positive pressure to push that warm air out anywhere it can, so in effect you want to feel that warm air coming out the vents, that means positive pressure is working as intended.

Good point. If the all-rads-in-pull-scenario is actually more efficient, then the water temp should be lower at equal fan speeds I guess. Hmm, now I'm tempted to try this biggrin.gif I would just need an angled philips screwdriver to flip the top fans around ...
    
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post #27 of 32
Yea it's a pain and may not be worth the effort, but would be curious too see the difference.

Either way the build looks fantastic! Nice job on everything.
 
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post #28 of 32
Thread Starter 
Thanks! It might be worth a try because I have to ramp up the fans to ~800 rpm during benchmarks, even with only a modest overclock of 4.1 GHz with GTX 780 still at stock.

Though I'll probably not change the fans - as contemplated above - because I'm not sure if another fan would perform equally good and it would be too much hassle. Also, atm the pump is the loudest component in the build and as I can adjust it's speed only manually, I have to take out the PSU each time. So for that reason I've ordered a D5 USB from Aqua Computer because I will be able to control it with my Aquaero 6 XT. When that arrives and I drain the system, then I might at flip the fans in the same session, we'll see.
    
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post #29 of 32
Thread Starter 
Well, I could not let it go redface.gif I just had to know it now so I flipped the top fans to pull-intake and the rear to exhaust. Took me about an hour of fiddling with tweezers and other tools, but I eventually managed to remove all the screws without damage to nearby components. I've just now finished running the same stress test again as I did before, with unchanged fan speeds, and to my surprise the temps are a good 8 degrees C lower on all components (22 degrees ambient), that is CPU, GPU, VRM, PCH and even the 950 Pro nerdsmiley.png

This is very good news as it means that I can keep the current overclock and still run the fans at acceptable 300 to 400 rpms while gaming. So big thanks to you Radnad, for suggesting it to me! Rep+ thumb.gif
    
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post #30 of 32
Man thats awesome, 8c is a lot in our OC world! But no thanks to me, thanks to Corsair for designing a case that was made for good air flow all the way around. I giggled when I saw "tweezers", you have no idea how many times those have come in handy for me too, lol. Once again, fantastic build!
 
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Intel Core i5-6400 Skylake ASRock A170A-X1/3.1 Gigabye G1 Gaming GTX 970 Windforce CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DD... 
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Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
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Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
OSPowerCase
Windows 10 Pro Corsair RM Series 850 Thermaltake Suppressor F31 
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intel i5 750 Lynnfield Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3 ASUS Strix GTX 960 G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial BX100 SSD 500GB EKWB EK-KIT L120 Corsair SP120 Koolance 2x140mm Radiator HX-CU1402V 
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Corsair AF140 Bitspower VG-NGTX960 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Samsung Curved 27" S27D590C 
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Corsair Strafe RGB Apevia Iceburg 680 watts Apevia X-Sniper 2 EVGA Torq X3 Laser 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom 9750 ASUS M3A78-CM PNY XLR8 GTX 460 Corsair XMS2 (4 x 1GB) 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingPower
Hitachi 5K500 Silenx 92mm EFFIZIO Corsair SP 120 Red LED Antec 500watt 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-6400 Skylake ASRock A170A-X1/3.1 Gigabye G1 Gaming GTX 970 Windforce CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DD... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
OSPowerCase
Windows 10 Pro Corsair RM Series 850 Thermaltake Suppressor F31 
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Red-Black Fusion (Corsair Air 540, 5820K, R5E, 780GTX, 950 Pro, 280 Rads)