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Anyone here builds with 16mm rigid tubing? How come so rare? - Page 9

post #81 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeSVTguy View Post

I will suggest if you use the Bitspower 16mm enhanced multilink fittings, I just found it better removing the inner O-ring. No chamfering the tubes which it seemed to pointless anyways with the second O-ring as it was difficult trying to push the tubes into the fitting, especially in the tight spaces I was encountered with. The outter O-ring holds just fine with being on just finger tight.

I would suggest that people assemble them correctly (ie use both O-Rings) as using both gives the user another layer of security from leaks etc.

You just need a few tips on preparing the fittings so that they will allow the tubing to slide in reasonably easily.

I'm utilising over 50 of the 16mm Enhanced Multi-Link fittings in my current build and have not had any trouble inserting my tubing into any of them....smile.gif



OK - So here is how I prep the fittings for use.....



2x brand new BP-EML16 fittings which I only just removed from their packaging for the photo shoot.



1: If you look very carefully at the inner O-Ring you will find that it is not fully seated from factory. Don't why this is the case but on every single one I have used in my current build they all exhibit this issue - This inner O-Ring which is not fully seated in its recess is the crux of the problem.

If you try and insert the tubing as is (assuming you have the correct metric sized 16mm tubing - ie Bitspower 16mm or even EK 16mm tubing) it will be extremely difficult and prone to damaging this O-Ring.

Note how the inner O-Ring is sitting quite proud of its seat - You will have extreme difficulty when trying to insert the tubing if left like this.



2: Remove the outer compression clamp and O-Ring and place aside. Grab something cylindrical that is a bit smaller than the inner O-Ring diameter - nothing critical in dimensions here as long as it fits without effort ie a loose fit. I use an old thick texta pen which has a metal barrel and is the perfect diameter for this job - Texta barrel is exactly 15.0mm in diameter - so a drill bit shank or any tube around 15 to 15.5mm will do the trick..

Use this to push the inner O-Ring fully into its seat by pressing the texta barrel up against the inner wall of the O-Ring trying to force it into its recess - Work around the inner perimeter to ensure you have pressed it in all around. You will not seat it 100% home as it will be tight but close enough will be ok for the next step.



O-Ring after seating with 'texta' tool..... Looking much better already...!





3: Place a small amount of silicone grease or rubber grease on the inner O-Ring's visible surface and spread it around the O-Ring with a toothpick or similar. You don't need heaps of grease - 1/2 a rice grain size is ample.




4: Grab a short 5cm or so length of 16mm acrylic tubing off-cut which has had one end chamfered - No need to go too crazy with the chamfer, just the standard amount as if it was a piece you would install in your rig. This becomes our O-Ring final seating tool - Tool part no:!#@$%!#




5: Now - use the short off-cut of acrylic as your tool to finally seat the inner O-Ring fully home - Just insert it as if it was a normal length of tubing but move it around/wiggle it a little as you insert it. Once you feel it slide all the way in, rotate the acrylic tube once or twice fwd/bkwd in/out to ensure the O-Ring is 100% home.

The grease helps in preventing damage to the O-Ring and will assist when placing the final piece of tubing into the same fitting.





6: Now it's ready for installation into your rig...! Compare the photo below to the earlier one which shows the fitting just out of its packet and with its O-Ring not seated correctly.


Like I stated earlier - I am utilising over 50 of these fittings in my current build and they have been real easy to work with after performing these quick few steps.

Check out my build log (link in signature below) for pics....!
Edited by Costas - 4/4/16 at 4:44am
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post #82 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

I would suggest that people assemble them correctly (ie use both O-Rings) as using both gives the user another layer of security from leaks etc.

You just need a few tips on preparing the fittings so that they will allow the tubing to slide in reasonably easily.

I'm utilising over 50 of the 16mm Enhanced Multi-Link fittings in my current build and have not had any trouble inserting my tubing into any of them....smile.gif



OK - So here is how I prep the fittings for use.....



2x brand new BP-EML16 fittings which I only just removed from their packaging for the photo shoot.



1: If you look very carefully at the inner O-Ring you will find that it is not fully seated from factory. Don't why this is the case but on every single one I have used in my current build they all exhibit this issue - This inner O-Ring which is not fully seated in its recess is the crux of the problem.

If you try and insert the tubing as is (assuming you have the correct metric sized 16mm tubing - ie Bitspower 16mm or even EK 16mm tubing) it will be extremely difficult and prone to damaging this O-Ring.

Note how the inner O-Ring is sitting quite proud of its seat - You will have extreme difficulty when trying to insert the tubing if left like this.



2: Remove the outer compression clamp and O-Ring and place aside. Grab something cylindrical that is a bit smaller than the inner O-Ring diameter - nothing critical in dimensions here as long as it fits without effort ie a loose fit. I use an old thick texta pen which has a metal barrel and is the perfect diameter for this job - Texta barrel is exactly 15.0mm in diameter - so a drill bit shank or any tube around 15 to 15.5mm will do the trick..

Use this to push the inner O-Ring fully into its seat by pressing the texta barrel up against the inner wall of the O-Ring trying to force it into its recess - Work around the inner perimeter to ensure you have pressed it in all around. You will not seat it 100% home as it will be tight but close enough will be ok for the next step.



O-Ring after seating with 'texta' tool..... Looking much better already...!





3: Place a small amount of silicone grease or rubber grease on the inner O-Ring's visible surface and spread it around the O-Ring with a toothpick or similar. You don't need heaps of grease - 1/2 a rice grain size is ample.




4: Grab a short 5cm or so length of 16mm acrylic tubing off-cut which has had one end chamfered - No need to go too crazy with the chamfer, just the standard amount as if it was a piece you would install in your rig. This becomes our O-Ring final seating tool - Tool part no:!#@$%!#




5: Now - use the short off-cut of acrylic as your tool to finally seat the inner O-Ring fully home - Just insert it as if it was a normal length of tubing but move it around/wiggle it a little as you insert it. Once you feel it slide all the way in, rotate the acrylic tube once or twice fwd/bkwd in/out to ensure the O-Ring is 100% home.

The grease helps in preventing damage to the O-Ring and will assist when placing the final piece of tubing into the same fitting.





6: Now it's ready for installation into your rig...! Compare the photo below to the earlier one which shows the fitting just out of its packet and with its O-Ring not seated correctly.


Like I stated earlier - I am utilising over 50 of these fittings in my current build and they have been real easy to work with after performing these quick few steps.

Check out my build log (link in signature below) for pics....!

Thanks for the tip. I will put this in the Vault.

Btw, I love macro shots when it comes to 'plaining.thumb.gif
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post #83 of 94
Very nice write up. Thanks. I will try to follow your steps next time I work on my build. For now, everything is working out for me. thumb.gif
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post #84 of 94
Hello all,
I mostly use 16/12mm tubing. I use this size going to my CPUs. I use 12/8 going to my AE 6 and my HDDs.
Thanks,
rich!
post #85 of 94
I have seen a bunch of guides that say to soak the silicone insert in hot water for a while before inserting it... it apparently is supposed to expand and assist with filling any gaps. I'm en route to my first rigid tube build. Going through the nightmare of deciding on tubing and estimating fittings and rads now. I'm having nightmares and haven't slept well in a week. LMAO! tongue.gif
post #86 of 94
16mm or 5/8 copper tube for me!
post #87 of 94
Thread Starter 
Got any pics? ^^^
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post #88 of 94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbara Lidya View Post

I just pulled the trigger on 16mm tubing and bitspower fittings. Murmur, this side interest is a cash pit...just when i thought i was content with my construct i see another set up and i alter my opinion right away...when will this end?
o.png
Everything comes down to inclination truly. I really incline toward something in the center. 14mm would be ideal for me however i don't care for the fittings offered in anything other than 12 and 16mm sizes. I wound up settling on 12mm for my up and coming tear down and hardline reconstruct.

You don't think these 14mm Barrow's are just beautiful?

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2
 
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post #89 of 94
I'm joining the 16mm OD Club biggrin.gif

ordered 8000mm of 16mm OD PETG, and enough fittings to fill a case tongue.gif

Just confirmed my order is being processed, and I should receive my Tracking code shorty smile.gif
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post #90 of 94
Is it an issue if I was to run 14 or 14.5mm ID with push in style fittings? Trying to source 16mm copper and have found some but they only come in 1.5 or 2mm wall.
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Anyone here builds with 16mm rigid tubing? How come so rare?