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980 ti Classified universal block compatibility & Adding card to current CPU loop

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Hey, long time lurker, first time poster.

Anyways, as my title suggests, I'm looking for some help as to putting an EK Supremacy universal GPU block on my new 980 ti Classified. Now I already used the EK cooling configurator, and the block should fit, I figured that much out.

But what I'm wondering about, does anyone know if this block, or any other universal block if not, will fit on my card WITHOUT removing the one-piece vrm/ram plate that is on the card? I've done some reading and most people seem to think the plate is sufficient for VRM cooling when using an AIO/Kraken g10 combo on this card, assuming you have some air flow on the card. So I'm hoping I can get the Supremacy on it and leave it on as well.

I took the stock heatsink off to look at it, and I did notice that because of the vrm plate, the actual GPU is recessed a little below the edge of the plate. So I guess the question is A) is the supremacy small enough to fit in the recessed slot, and B) if not and I want to keep the plate, could I just use a copper shim to make it flush with the plate so I could then attach the Supremacy?

Edit: Also, and maybe I should make a different thread, but it is related to this entire plan: I already have my CPU under a custom loop, with a 240mm EK Coolstream PE (~40mm thick i think) and a Phobya 200mm (also about 38-40mm). I only have room for one more radiator in my case, a 120mm size. I can go up to full 60mm thickness if I mount the fan on the outside. But my question is, is it even a good idea to add my Classified to my current loop if I can only add one more radiator? Or would I be better off doing an AIO/hybrid solution to keep it in a separate loop?
BTW the CPU is a 5820k @ 4.4, current max load temps (Prime 95, OCCT) are usually low 60s, seen it spike on only one core to 70 once or twice, but generally more like 60. If i back the speed back to 4.2, temps are more in the 50-60 range, but I'd like to stay at 4.4 as long as temps don't go any higher from adding the Classy.

Thanks for looking and any advice is appreciated! smile.gif
post #2 of 8
I have the supreme HF and it fits just fine with the midplate. On my 980ti classy.
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Small wonder.
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post #3 of 8
The EK VGA Supremacy will fit with the midplate in place due to the design of the block.

The EK Thermosphere, on the other hand, will not fit without modifying the mounting hardware, which is how I got one to fit on my 980TI FTW. http://www.overclock.net/t/1588838/build-log-liquid-black-fury#post_24823875

Any reason why you don't just use a full cover block for it? I believe the 780ti classy full cover block fits the 980ti classy.
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post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidonsu View Post

The EK VGA Supremacy will fit with the midplate in place due to the design of the block.

The EK Thermosphere, on the other hand, will not fit without modifying the mounting hardware, which is how I got one to fit on my 980TI FTW. http://www.overclock.net/t/1588838/build-log-liquid-black-fury#post_24823875

Any reason why you don't just use a full cover block for it? I believe the 780ti classy full cover block fits the 980ti classy.

Thanks, good to hear. Yeah you are right, i saw that the 780 classy full cover block would fit it. I've considered it, but honestly it's just the price. I just have a hard time justifying $130 for the fc when the supremacy is only $50. It might be worth it in the long run, but I've just already spent a lot on this new build, and if I just get the supremacy plus a thick 120 rad, I should be able to do that for basically just $100. Haven't decided for sure yet though.
post #5 of 8
The HEATKILLER Core could also cool your GPU. for dedicated VRM cooling, there is the HEATKILLER microSW-X 60 DIY. You can buy both in a great bundle.
It actually is a great way to save money on the long term, because when you upgrade to a new card, all you need is a new bottom plate, instead a new fullcover for over hundred bucks. I personally used it on a Sapphire 7870 XT and a R9 290. Those are images from my private buildlog. For the R9 290, I used the vast space on the right of the VRMs. I left the Copper base plate bigger than needed and placed passive heat sinks on it. Don't know how much those help, but they do get warm. And as you can see, you can get funky with the microtubes if you want to wink.gif



post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watercool-Jakob View Post

The HEATKILLER Core could also cool your GPU. for dedicated VRM cooling, there is the HEATKILLER microSW-X 60 DIY. You can buy both in a great bundle.
It actually is a great way to save money on the long term, because when you upgrade to a new card, all you need is a new bottom plate, instead a new fullcover for over hundred bucks. I personally used it on a Sapphire 7870 XT and a R9 290. Those are images from my private buildlog. For the R9 290, I used the vast space on the right of the VRMs. I left the Copper base plate bigger than needed and placed passive heat sinks on it. Don't know how much those help, but they do get warm. And as you can see, you can get funky with the microtubes if you want to wink.gif




I had seen that block on a few sites, but hadn't really looked it very closely. Thanks for the info. I will definitely check it out.
post #7 of 8
I actually looked into using the Heatkiller on my GPU. I believe it was well rated in an xtremesystems test, especially with the VRM cooling solution that it offers. I think I ended up deciding against it because I wasn't sure if there was a way to make it fit with the Evga midplate still attached. Maybe Jakob can comment on that.

If it indeed does interfere with the midplate notches, you can pick up some copper shims. I have a few, and I'm happy to send you one. They are 25mm X 25mm X 1.5mm, which is plenty of clear the obstructions. I'm not sure what the mounting screws look like, so those might need to be a bit longer.
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post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jidonsu View Post

I actually looked into using the Heatkiller on my GPU. I believe it was well rated in an xtremesystems test, especially with the VRM cooling solution that it offers. I think I ended up deciding against it because I wasn't sure if there was a way to make it fit with the Evga midplate still attached. Maybe Jakob can comment on that.
I haven't personally seen the MMCP, so all I can say are speculations based mainly on your very own pictures. I seems awfully complicated to find any infos about the MMCP... Well, judging from you pictures and this CAD of the HEATKILLER Core, I SUSPECT that the nodges from the MMCP would indeed be in the way of the HEATKILLER's base plate itself. So, I see three possible solutions:
a) Get rid of the MMCP. You can cool the VRMs with the MicroSW-X, so you wouldn't need the MMCP after all, and the VRM blocks can be cooled by passive heat sinks.
b) Keep the MMCP, but cut off the nodges so the HEATKILLER Core is correctly seated upon the GPU. I would also suggest cutting a hole in the MMCP so you could use the MicroSW-X, since I would rather have the VRMs actively cooled by water instead of passively by a blunt alloy plane. Which would render the MMCP useless, see a) wink.gif
c) Keep the MMCP and use copper shims. This of course makes installation more complicated, since you might need longer screws. On the plus side, if you match the thickness of the shims just exactly right, the HEATKILLER's base plate would sit on top of those nodges, cooling them (and the complete MMCP) a little bit. Again, I would suggest cutting a hole in the MMCP so you could use the MicroSW-X, since I would rather have the VRMs actively cooled by water instead of passively by a blunt alloy plane. Which would render the MMCP useless, again see a) wink.gif

I DO understand that you want to keep the MMCP for aesthetical reasons. The cards that kept the MMCP really look very nice, where a complete DIY-mod with the microSW-X... well, always looks a little bit more like you actually did it yourself, not as slick, not as clean. But the cooling performance of an actual water block with sufficient water flow should be way better than a mere alloy plane. Especially if you plan to overclock the card or play with the voltage, I would know what to choose between optics and performance smile.gif
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