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AQUACOMPUTER Farbwerk and PA3 front leds: dimmable? interchangeable?

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi Overclockers and Watercoolers

I'm in the final steps of perfecting my last huge watercooling build (which I hope to show soon in a buildlog), and it has a lot of Aquacomputer stuff: an Aquaero 6XT, D5, High Flow Sensor, a PowerAdjust 3 and a Farbwerk.
So far, so good on everything but I have just one last doubt on those last 2 components: is there anyway to adjust or to change the brightness of the PA3 and Farbwerks modules front led?
I got to know the Aquaero very well (wonderful machine), and I know the 3 "touch leds" are adjustable and that's really nice. The only thing is that those other 2 LEDs are really disturbing bright... They dont' look that well with the Aquaero too!! At least everything's blue
I searched a bit around the web and the AC forum too but really found any other thread or someone talking about this. I just know it's a 2mm led which is 99% probably removable...
Anyone tried experimented on their poweradjust / farbwerks ??I also thought as a very last solution to remove them both, but that defeats the whole purpose of the thing.
Maybe play around with some lower voltages led bulbs ? I'm sure I'm not the first one which was arguing about this... And knowing how many AC owners are here, is sure the right place to ask.

Ok, I'll stop talking and attach a picture that shows what I'm talking about. Sorry for the exposure/light of the pic, but that lets you also understand how bright and annoying those things look. No more need for any lighting in my room while computing at night specool.gif


Edited by correzzana - 2/25/16 at 7:41am
post #2 of 12
You could always put a resistor in series with the LED to take the current down some. Don't know what your technical expertise is in soldering and electronics, though.

Standard blue LED, at max brightness, runs 20mA and 3.2 Volts.

www.ngineering.com/led_calculators.htm

Plug in 12v for the supply (Vs), 3.2V for the LED voltage (Vd), and 20 for the mA of the circuit, you come up with a total resistance on the circuit of 440 ohms (total resistance minus the led). This is the resistance that's in series to your current LED approximately. In case your wondering, same method works for 5 volt Vs.

Now calculate it for 18 mA, 16 mA, 14 mA. Resistors you need will be value outputted from calc above minus 440. Order nearest approximate resistors (that company, by the way, has a great SMD resistor value pack). Order a standard blue Led,try it out. Good 3.2 voltage source is a single cell lipo battery (tiny cheap toy rc cars/planes) full charge on one is 3.4 volts, and if theyv'e run for a minute they're perfect.

The hard part is soldering the resistor in. If you've done video card or other volt modding, you know the difficulties and dangers in cutting/bridging/soldering circuit traces on smd circuit boards. Same applies here. I've soldered circuits using grain of sand sized resistors/leds, it ain't fun!
Edited by ShortBtwnHdset - 2/26/16 at 7:16am
post #3 of 12
By the way, you may want to go here for advise from other Aquaeros users. I'm sure youv'e seen it, but just in case!redface.gif

http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/6900
post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
Hi ShortBtwnHdset, first thank you very much for your answer thumb.gif
I'm quite good at electrotechnics, and your explanation was spot on !! Infact I was thinking at the exact same thing.. I've already soldered many times, but never done it on smd cicuit boards.

I think I'll ask some other advices/opinions on the Aquaero Owners post, I already looked at it other times and that's a great idea. Sure someone there has noticed and maybe found a work around this thing
post #5 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by correzzana View Post

Hi ShortBtwnHdset, first thank you very much for your answer thumb.gif
I'm quite good at electrotechnics, and your explanation was spot on !! Infact I was thinking at the exact same thing.. I've already soldered many times, but never done it on smd cicuit boards.

I think I'll ask some other advices/opinions on the Aquaero Owners post, I already looked at it other times and that's a great idea. Sure someone there has noticed and maybe found a work around this thing

NP. Check over on the main Aquaeros Thread, did some more thinking on your problem.
post #6 of 12
Correzzana

I had the same issue as you, and I did some PA3/fabwerk LED modding in my ongoing build which is described in detail here

If you are just interested in changing the brightness I would definitely use something physically placed between the LED and the front-plate to dim the light coming from the LEDs. Its probably cheaper than messing with LED's and no risk to warranty of any devices. In my build i used a product called light DIMS

I am pretty happy with the end result - the lights glow but not at distracting brightness



To change brightness electronically I think the issue will be as ShortBtwnHdset described - the components are all SMD apart from the LED itself. It probably could be done by someone skilled but when deciding on the possible ways to reduce brightness I immediately discounted the electronics approach as my soldering "skills" are not up to trying to play with SMD components.
post #7 of 12
Hi Alstorm!

Now that sounds like a workable solution! Never thought of light blocking. Makes sense, as led's create so little heat.thumb.gif
post #8 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortBtwnHdset View Post

Hi Alstorm!

Now that sounds like a workable solution! Never thought of light blocking. Makes sense, as led's create so little heat.thumb.gif
It worked well for me. In the end used two layers of light dims, as with one layer they still had quite a bit of power - I think the only thing to watch out for with this method would be using too thick a material, other than that its easier and far less risky than doing anything electronically, and can probably be done with any semi opaque film like substance providing its thin enough.




ofc the ultimate solution would be for aquacomputer to make the front LED a programmable RGB part with 0-255 on each channel controllable via aquasuite - that would be REALLY nice
Edited by alstorm - 2/27/16 at 3:25pm
post #9 of 12
Double post doh.gif
Edited by alstorm - 2/27/16 at 3:26pm
post #10 of 12
Thanks for the tip about dim light, just ordered one set.
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