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post #11 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I'll probably regret asking this but what is heatshrinkless pass-through sata?
Probably this but heatshrinklessly:
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post #12 of 37
It DOES oxidate, I can see it from the photos wink.gif or at least, it looks like something like that.
With the soldering iron, the exposure is minimal regarding time (I take about 10 max 20 seconds per end) and it never touches the pin directly - only the sleeve.
It's still better than what's left when you melt the sleeve with a lighter.
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post #13 of 37
thinking.gif I wonder how well heating the pliers before crimping and letting the heat of the pliers melt the sleeving would work? It might be faster and it would take care of the pin oxidation problem. The plier handles would probably need to be insulated.
Edited by Lady Fitzgerald - 2/29/16 at 1:22pm
     
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post #14 of 37
yeah, lighter and fingers just take the fun out of this method. it took my finger tips 3 weeks to look normal again. i had thought about maybe using thimbles to cover my finger tips, but this looks like a good tool.

great find!

could there be a test using a lighter?
Edited by rgrwng - 2/29/16 at 1:22pm
post #15 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaK2BaK View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I'll probably regret asking this but what is heatshrinkless pass-through sata?
Probably this but heatshrinklessly:

Doh! I told you I would regret it. Thanks!
     
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post #16 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

thinking.gif I wonder how well heating the pliers before crimping and letting the heat of the pliers melt the sleeving would work? It might be faster and it would take care of the pin oxidation problem. The plier handles would probably need to be insulated.
No that would not work, optimun heat shrinking would require the pro tool the thread opener is using, or a mini tourch, or a fire lighter.
Heat guns would also work, I use a 2000W heat gun running on half power.

Soldering irons work, but its not hot enough and you don't get a tight seal, which means its no good.
In other words using soldering Iron to seal heat shrink is a fail

Just if your woundering, I use a mini tourch most of the time for heat shrinking.
For firelighters, samething.
Just burn the heat shrink, move the lighter constantly and never burn the same spot for more than 2 seconds
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHNS0 View Post


could there be a test using a lighter?
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHNS0 View Post

I don't know if this can impact on the cable's performance. I still think the soldering iron is easer and problem-free thumb.gif
Same here, I think soldering Iron is the best.
It allows the wire to have perfect contact with the pin.
Performance is what I like and soldering Iron means there would be less resistance from wire coneting to joint
Edited by Iwamotto Tetsuz - 2/29/16 at 8:08pm
post #17 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Doh! I told you I would regret it. Thanks!

Check Lutro0's faq in the stickies. He posts a picture of this method, stamped with his logo. So I once asked him how he did it, but he admitted it wasn't his work and he couldn't remember where he'd borrowed the photo from.

So I tried to replicate the results



But as you can see on the uppermost blue wire: the passthrough clips are not holding the melted sleeving properly. I had to cheat and use superglue. @BaK2BaK's idea would allow me to squeeze the end of the sleeve small enough to fit inside the clip.
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post #18 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHNS0 View Post

It DOES oxidate, I can see it from the photos wink.gif or at least, it looks like something like that.
Oh, there is a drawback then!
What does oxidation look like? Could you please point out where you see oxidation on my pics?
I applied heat much longer than needed trying to improve the look of the melt, but it didn't really get better than what I get after a few seconds of heat gun. So I can maybe prevent oxidation in being quicker with the heat gun.
I will also try to reduce the temp, just checked and the PVC melting point is around 160°C only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

thinking.gif I wonder how well heating the pliers before crimping and letting the heat of the pliers melt the sleeving would work? It might be faster and it would take care of the pin oxidation problem. The plier handles would probably need to be insulated.
Sounds interesting!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rgrwng View Post

could there be a test using a lighter?
You mean using a lighter instead of the heat gun? I am not good with a lighter, I always end up with black stuff covering my pins or melting the sleeve too much.
Plus, talking about oxidation:
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHNS0 View Post

It's still better than what's left when you melt the sleeve with a lighter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

Doh! I told you I would regret it. Thanks!
Heh, np
Edited by BaK2BaK - 3/1/16 at 3:35am
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post #19 of 37
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwamotto Tetsuz View Post

Same here, I think soldering Iron is the best.
It allows the wire to have perfect contact with the pin.
Performance is what I like and soldering Iron means there would be less resistance from wire coneting to joint
Are you talking about heatshrinkless sleeving with a soldering iron, as I believe SHNS0 does?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

@BaK2BaK's idea would allow me to squeeze the end of the sleeve small enough to fit inside the clip.
Oh, didn't think there was enough room inside the clip for a 'shrinked' sleeve, nice!
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post #20 of 37
For oxidation you could compare it to another pin which is brand new. The color of the "used" one should be different. Maybe it's just burn marks, but I still wouldn't risk using a pin that's been burned (and I've seen some people doing sleeving with pins which were practically brown).

I think Iwamotto is talking about soldering the pin to the stripped wire biggrin.gif

For pass-through HSL sleeving, I personally glue the sleeve to the wire (no melting), then make two small cuts with a razor that go up to the copper, and then just plug them. If you're doing multiple satas it's important to drop some glue wherever there will be a connector or the tension of the mounted sleeve will just rip the cuts you're doing with the razor thumb.gif the glue will permeate through the sleeve and fix it to the underneath insulation of the wire. It's also very resistant this way.
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