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Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum announced - Page 196

post #1951 of 2273
The rattling isn't the lens. It's probably the power switch.
But PCB motion at 12000 DPI can trigger the lens at the slightest movement of anything.

Please let the mouse rest for 8 seconds before shaking it. And don't shake it -too- violently.
Does it still happen if you let the mouse rest for 8 seconds first?

If yes, stick a very very tiny piece of either sponge, or a tiny ball of tissue paper behind the flat lens tab next to the ABS plastic, use a paper clip or something thin to push it in there, then try it again.
Does it still happen?

*edit* the lens itself isn't loose. The lens is firmly secured.
I believe it's the PCB itself micro-rattling in the hole attachments, and at 12,000 DPI, any tiny movement will register. You can tell by (gently) jiggling the USB connector if it's wired, and noticing movement from that.

You can open the mouse after removing the feet and using a miniature screwdriver (a very thin flat blade screwdriver can open the torx t5 screw) and then make sure the PCB is firmly inserted in the notches and then give the two screws (that are visible) an extra turn to tighten the PCB down more. Move the PCB (carefully) in your hand to make sure it doesn't 'micro' move in the hole.

There's a third screw under the mouse wheel pcb daughterboard but I couldn't get to that, as I have no idea how to remove the mouse wheel PCB from the top where it covers the main PCB. I sent qsxcv a PM asking how to remove that, but he didn't reply to my PM frown.gif

Anyway, getting those three screws firmly tightened and making sure the PCB doesn't micro-rattle, and then putting a tiny sponge behind the lens ( like I wrote above) should stop all movement. Then when you do the tape thing and wait 8 seconds, it won't move an inch.
Edited by Falkentyne - 9/25/16 at 11:07pm
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post #1952 of 2273
That indeed looks like lens rattle. Logitech's older heat-staking process did not function very well. Some people have fixed it by stuffing paper between the shell and the lens (can find the guide from these forums if you use the search). The tape fix requires you to open the mouse and it voids the warranty.
post #1953 of 2273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post

The rattling isn't the lens. It's probably the power switch.
But PCB motion at 12000 DPI can trigger the lens at the slightest movement of anything.

Please let the mouse rest for 8 seconds before shaking it. And don't shake it -too- violently.
Does it still happen if you let the mouse rest for 8 seconds first?

If yes, stick a very very tiny piece of either sponge, or a tiny ball of tissue paper behind the flat lens tab next to the ABS plastic, use a paper clip or something thin to push it in there, then try it again.
Does it still happen?

*edit* the lens itself isn't loose. The lens is firmly secured.
I believe it's the PCB itself micro-rattling in the hole attachments, and at 12,000 DPI, any tiny movement will register. You can tell by (gently) jiggling the USB connector if it's wired, and noticing movement from that.

You can open the mouse after removing the feet and using a miniature screwdriver (a very thin flat blade screwdriver can open the torx t5 screw) and then make sure the PCB is firmly inserted in the notches and then give the two screws (that are visible) an extra turn to tighten the PCB down more. Move the PCB (carefully) in your hand to make sure it doesn't 'micro' move in the hole.

There's a third screw under the mouse wheel pcb daughterboard but I couldn't get to that, as I have no idea how to remove the mouse wheel PCB from the top where it covers the main PCB. I sent qsxcv a PM asking how to remove that, but he didn't reply to my PM frown.gif

Anyway, getting those three screws firmly tightened and making sure the PCB doesn't micro-rattle, and then putting a tiny sponge behind the lens ( like I wrote above) should stop all movement. Then when you do the tape thing and wait 8 seconds, it won't move an inch.
It's definitely rattle from the lens. It happens at 400 800 1200 1600 dpi I don't go any higher than that. Moreover if I use a q tip I can make it rattle the same way quite easily by just tapping the lens underneath. It makes the same exact sound as when shaking it. I'll just return and exchange it for another one. Test it in the car and if all is good there keep it, if not then I'm On the hunt for a new mouse. This sucks frown.gif
post #1954 of 2273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post

The rattling isn't the lens. It's probably the power switch.
But PCB motion at 12000 DPI can trigger the lens at the slightest movement of anything.

Please let the mouse rest for 8 seconds before shaking it. And don't shake it -too- violently.
Does it still happen if you let the mouse rest for 8 seconds first?

If yes, stick a very very tiny piece of either sponge, or a tiny ball of tissue paper behind the flat lens tab next to the ABS plastic, use a paper clip or something thin to push it in there, then try it again.
Does it still happen?

*edit* the lens itself isn't loose. The lens is firmly secured.
I believe it's the PCB itself micro-rattling in the hole attachments, and at 12,000 DPI, any tiny movement will register. You can tell by (gently) jiggling the USB connector if it's wired, and noticing movement from that.

You can open the mouse after removing the feet and using a miniature screwdriver (a very thin flat blade screwdriver can open the torx t5 screw) and then make sure the PCB is firmly inserted in the notches and then give the two screws (that are visible) an extra turn to tighten the PCB down more. Move the PCB (carefully) in your hand to make sure it doesn't 'micro' move in the hole.

There's a third screw under the mouse wheel pcb daughterboard but I couldn't get to that, as I have no idea how to remove the mouse wheel PCB from the top where it covers the main PCB. I sent qsxcv a PM asking how to remove that, but he didn't reply to my PM frown.gif

Anyway, getting those three screws firmly tightened and making sure the PCB doesn't micro-rattle, and then putting a tiny sponge behind the lens ( like I wrote above) should stop all movement. Then when you do the tape thing and wait 8 seconds, it won't move an inch.

I haven't opened up my G900 because there's no real reason to, but I can confirm that the lens itself moves by physically pushing on it in various places on my G403 and G303. So no the lens isn't always firmly secured.
post #1955 of 2273
I just pushed a tiny piece of rolled up post it paper in there to see if the rattling would stop. It stopped, the cursor didn't even move at 12,000 dpi. The question is now: do I return it or an exchange, or are all g900's like this? Today is the last day I can return it without losing anything.
post #1956 of 2273
I'd keep it. The G502s have the SAME issue. I have three day 1/early release G502s and all three needed the sponge trick!!

but, Check the left and right click. If they are really good and consistent, and you are happy with them (mine is perfect) then keep it. Because you might wind up getting one with a less crisp click (just look at the G pro and G403 threads). Of course a "fix" for that would normally be to just transplant the top shell, but 2 screws are under the G900 logo, so you can't do that without voiding the warranty.

My sensor was "okay" but it was the PCB itself that was "slightly" loose. At 12000 DPI, even a few micrometers of movement will trigger the sensor. I noticed that by playing with the USB plug end (that doesn't have cable "support" like the hardwired cable versions have), and the mouse cursor would jerk hard even if I just lightly moved the USB cable to where I first meet resistance. After I opened the shell and screwed down the screws and pressed down more firmly on the PCB, that helped so after the 8 seconds "low power" mode kicks in, it wouldn't move.

(it would move very slightly before the 8 seconds).

Then I did the sponge trick and that stopped micro sensor ratting during 1st 8 seconds of shaking smile.gif
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post #1957 of 2273
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falkentyne View Post

I'd keep it. The G502s have the SAME issue. I have three day 1/early release G502s and all three needed the sponge trick!!

but, Check the left and right click. If they are really good and consistent, and you are happy with them (mine is perfect) then keep it. Because you might wind up getting one with a less crisp click (just look at the G pro and G403 threads). Of course a "fix" for that would normally be to just transplant the top shell, but 2 screws are under the G900 logo, so you can't do that without voiding the warranty.

My sensor was "okay" but it was the PCB itself that was "slightly" loose. At 12000 DPI, even a few micrometers of movement will trigger the sensor. I noticed that by playing with the USB plug end (that doesn't have cable "support" like the hardwired cable versions have), and the mouse cursor would jerk hard even if I just lightly moved the USB cable to where I first meet resistance. After I opened the shell and screwed down the screws and pressed down more firmly on the PCB, that helped so after the 8 seconds "low power" mode kicks in, it wouldn't move.

(it would move very slightly before the 8 seconds).

Then I did the sponge trick and that stopped micro sensor ratting during 1st 8 seconds of shaking smile.gif

Yeah the clicks are actually both quite crisp. So are all the side buttons. Everything else about the mouse is great. I'll keep it. If anything goes wrong down the line I do have a two year warranty with microcenter. No waiting or anything, they just exchange the item for a brand new one. I did it with a graphics card that kept artifacting at stock settings and its how I upgraded to a gtx 1070. Thanks for all the advice, appreciate it.
post #1958 of 2273
Keep in mind while the G502's originally might not have done this when brand new (mine didn't when I tested it and the g303 when the G303 was new) I did the tape thing on them recently at 12,000 DPI, just flipping the mouse over upside down would make the sensor jump !! I could have sworn this didn't happen when they were new! Had to put sponge behind the lens on all of my G502's.
Edited by Falkentyne - 9/26/16 at 2:34pm
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post #1959 of 2273
Quote:
Originally Posted by iceskeleton View Post

So on the video Chris said the battery weighed 15g, so if you can remove it, 92g seems decent. But maybe the weight compromise is ok if the mouse cable drag is worse.

Will this be the same g502/g303 cable?

I just made a permanent version of the paper remedy. I folded it neatly and painted it with black marker. Shoved it in there with a pointed tweezer, and it almost looks like its part of the design. It sucks to have to do this to a brand new mouse, but I HATE playing the lottery with electronics. You get a new one with the original problem fixed only tow have a different issue crop up. I was watching a youtube video where this guy tests a bunch of mice for rattle and it seems like its a fairly common issue. I don't know why I got so concerned over this, i'm a filthy casual gamer anyway tongue.gif its getting to a point where I have more money than skill.
post #1960 of 2273
Tested to mouse for couple of days, i loved clicks,weight,wirelesness and most the scrollwheel but shape makes my hand crampy/ tensioned for longer gaming hours, i have ~ 18cm lenght hand and i palm grip, i think the back "hump" is too big coupled with mouse lenght and sligtly elevated clicks which causes the tension to hand, have to return it and try g403 maybe.
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