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post #131 of 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanzylol View Post

oh yea i agree until you go used for the i7 series ;p. a 6 core xeon is 100 dollars plus a board to push it will cost around what a fx would cost new and you are set ;p. Thats why i say wait on zen. Its really not worth it to go fx8350 these days unless you cant absolutly wait

Oh no doubt, the new Zen+ chips from AMD are gonna be sick. I'm not planning on upgrading my CPU anytime soon, because where I'm at now is BOUNDS faster than my 2.3Ghz quad AMD Athalon I had, I need a better GPU, and better drives. After they're upgraded I'll look into a new PSU, and then after that I may as well buy a nicer new case and start from scratch again on a new build. Build it piece by piece, and then reuse the new drives/GPU/PSU from my current rig. It'll be a while till the prices drop on the (yet unreleased) zen chips, so in all reality I may just get a better (are there better??) A10 FM2+ chip to run till then. I'm not worrying about a new mobo till my new build since there's nothing wrong with my current one. Plus it can hold up to 64Gb of ram which is unnecessary but awesome. Downside is it's max ram clock is 1866 (I've heard I can boost that to around 2400 but RAM OC scares me more than CPU OC does)

I still have yet to successfully OC my CPU. I haven't really messed with it too much. Plus it seems to be running just fine at it's 4.1Ghz when I play FO4 and maxes out less than my card does, so to me they seem fairly well balanced as of right now. Till I hit some dank shadows then I'm pretty toasted. aha.
    
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post #132 of 164
Hey bud, I just read most of these forum pages sry after like 10 I kinda quite lol, and I just wanted to say congrats on the pc you did a good job. I also have a similar background with technology and how its grown, it is truly amazing.

Sooo... I'd like to help just a tad. First off you actually dont have an FM2+ you do have an "FM2" big difference sry... unfortunately u cannot drop in an upgrade for a Kaveri FM2+ or any of the derivatives of a 7850k. That being said its really not a big deal anyway your 6800k when properly overclocked will perform pretty much identically like a Kaveri FM2+. I have overclocked on the f2a85x-up4 and have run my old 6800k at 4.8ghz 24/7... I also was able to bench at 5ghz but due to not having a good enough cooler at the time I had to keep it at 4.8ghz, I did all of this on a cooler master v6gt (basically a 212 evo) with dual corsair sp120s in push pull. Unfortunately I had bought a cheap PSU and used it from an earlier build so it was a couple of years old (1-2yrs) and it ended up killing the board and the cpu.

Ok on with the next part yea, if you had an fm2+ board the only upgrade I could recommend would be an athlon 870k but even then all kaveri/godveri fm2+ cpus clock up to a max of 4.4-.5ghz 24/7 stable.... Yea I know theres people out there that claim todo 4.5-4.7 but I call bull****. Either they're doing it wrong and there not actually all that stable (or VERY VERY VERY LUCKY... like loto winner lucky), Ive overclocked x1 5800k, x1 6800k, x1 6600k, x3 760ks, x2 7850ks, x2 860ks and an 870k (this ones mine smile.gif also some other OCs like a few phenom 2s, afew x6-x8 FXs and a couple of Intel Haswells from Celerons to i7s ). Since the term "stable" is relative anyway. Thats what I meant by 24/7 stable, which means for me your able to test all aspects of your systems including all realistic "instruction sets" of the cpu including in this case the CPU, GPU (onboard video since its an apu), and the memory controller/northbridge (NB for short).

when overclocking you need to have a stress test regime that encompasses all realistic instructions and tasks that your PC will do (see my challenge bellow for AMD APUs). while doing the actual stress testing use several different programs to check on Temps and Voltage, I like cpuz for the voltage on AMD of course when OC Intel its all about HWinfo64 (but thats a different discussion) and for temps its whatever works with your board. Unfortunately for fm2/+ apus this can be abit wonky to get actual temp readings.... since you have the f2a85x-up4 I would recommend using the gigabyte utility they give for the board I dont remember ATM since I haven't used it in awhile you can download it from they're website.

First for Voltage. NEVER go over 1.48-.49V for 24/7 OC Unless you have cooling that can keep the cpu at like 45C under max load... then maybe like 1.50-.55v but I still woudn't recommend it.

Second for the Temps. What your going for is in the 40-58C range... at like 60-65C the CPU will begin to throttle down in frequency and sometimes voltage depending on mobo... any higher than that at high voltage it will probably go POOF and never turn on again IDK? never done it wink.gif

The Actual process of overclocking these apus is simple.
First test max NB and RAM speeds using my challenge bellow. Start slow and work your way up you should be able to get about 2200mhz-2400mhz on the NB ( for the NB I believe it took 1.32-.35v to get 2200mhz-2300mhz? NB I cant remember and onboard video stable @1014mhz with 8GBs of 2400mhz DDR3 @ 9-10-10-24-1 timings) and depending on the RAM you can go up to 2400mhz with your DDR3. When you test all parts of the apu simultaneously it puts the most stress on it that can be achieved and if its not stable it WILL FAIL... See Below. A side note you really dont have to OC the onboard video just the NB cus you have a discrete video card. Just use it for stability for now so take (or disable... whatever works) out the GPU to use the onboard till your done OCing.
Second Overclock the CPU (under advanced core features) turn "off" core performance boost (disable) this should also turn "off" turbo cpb aswell otherwise (disable), you can leave cool&quiet (on) c6 (on) and svm (on). Start by leaving your voltage the same as stock and increase the core clock ratio one at a time until unstable (use method I will explain in a sec) then increase the voltage like x2 increments at a time test and continue... This little chart is awsome cus its pretty accurate, it shows freq, to voltage in bios, to what is show in cpuz, at what increment... I forgot who made it but props where due yea.... whoever made it your flippin awesome (probably Stilt or Flanker?) I also didnt put up the complete version that shows Kaveri and godveri because its irrelevant to this and theres way to much info on it.

| A10-6800k VOLTAGE TABLE
| =100 | CPUVolts | -/+ | .Volts. |.-/+ |.°C.|.Rpm..|
+Max-+-Max--+
| 3800 | 1.112500 | -32 | 1.15200 | -25 | 34 | 1689 |
| 3900 | 1.137500 | -28 | 1.18400 | -21 | 35 | 1700 |
| 4000 | 1.156250 | -25 | 1.20000 | -18 | 36 | 1693 |
| 4100 | 1.181250 | -21 | 1.22400 | -14 | 37 | 1698 |
| 4200 | 1.212500 | -16 | 1.26400 | -07 | 38 | 1698 |
| 4300 | 1.250000 | -10 | 1.30400 | -01 | 40 | 1701 |
| 4400 | 1.287500 | -04 | 1.35200 | +07 | 41 | 1706 |
| 4500 | 1.331250 | +03 | 1.40000 | +14 | 41 | 1713 |
| 4600 | 1.356250 | +07 | 1.43200 | +20 | 45 | 1821 |
| 4700 | 1.400000 | +14 | 1.48000 | +27 | 47 | 1869 |
| 4800 | 1.450000 | +22 | 1.54400 | +38 | 53 | 2091 |
| 4900 | 1.512500 | +32 | 1.62400 | +50 | 53 | 2057 |
| 5000 | 1.593750 | +45 | 1.70400 | +63 | 52 | 2011 |

| A10-5800k VOLTAGE TABLE
| =100 | CPUVolts | -/+ | .Volts. |.-/+ |.°C.|.Rpm..|
+Max-+-Max--+
| 3800 | 1.193750 | -19 | 1.21875 | -15 | ## | #### |
| 3900 | 1.212500 | -16 | 1.25000 | -10 | ## | #### |
| 4000 | 1.237500 | -12 | 1.28125 | -05 | ## | #### |
| 4100 | 1.268750 | -07 | 1.32500 | +02 | ## | #### |
| 4200 | 1.300000 | -02 | 1.35625 | +07 | ## | #### |
| 4300 | 1.343750 | +05 | 1.39375 | +13 | ## | #### |
| 4400 | 1.375000 | +10 | 1.42500 | +18 | ## | #### |
| 4500 | 1.418750 | +17 | 1.47500 | +26 | ## | #### |
| 4600 | 1.462500 | +24 | 1.55000 | +38 | 50 | #### |
| 4700 | 1.525000 | +34 | 1.62500 | +50 | 49 | 2311 |
| 4800 | 1.600000 | +46 | 1.70000 | +62 | 48 | 2261 |
| 4900 | 1.687500 | +60 | 1.77500 | +74 | 53 | 2410 |

Ok now on to the Voltage stability and misc info, to get your Voltage stable you'll have to use whats called LLC or "load line calibration" it compensates for voltage droop under load. Basically keeps the voltage from dropping below what you set in the bios when under load but if you set it high enough the voltage will spike and jump up too high when under load. So you'll have to change it depending one what voltage and freq you have set. You can find it in the "Advanced Voltage Settings" tab and your gonna have one for both the NB and CPU. The CPU one is easy as you just watch and compare what setting you have in bios to whats in cpuz try to get them as close as possible. The main thing is to get it so the voltage does NOT TWITCH or MOVE at ALL under load (this can be a whole other discussion on its own especially with asus fm2+ and intel boards equipped with Transient Frequency Response settings) this can be hard... you can try different LLC settings or change CPU voltage by x1 increment. Sometimes stability can be attained just by making sure the voltage doesn't twitch (also helps with benchmarks esp on "intel burntest" "standard test" if you can keep the voltage from twitching you'll get an extra gflop or so on your score per run). The NB LLC is kinda hard... play with the medium to high settings as theres no sensor reading to see if its drooping or not. Your power supply can effect this though so depending on how good it is it may be very hard if not impossible to get the voltage to not TWITCH.

Now for the CPU Stress regime only part (also my regime for regular CPU parts... small variations for intel tho but thats another discussion) use intel burntest (also prime95 use small FFTs or whatever you want I dont really use it anymore... burntest is faster) on standard test for 10 runs this should be "default" if you pass with your voltage NOT TWITCHING try a higher cpu multiplier until you want to go for 24/7 stability. Then move to the "x264 Stability Test v2.06". You can find it on the Haswell overclocking page from: HERE look under the Stressing portion of his post. Set to use all 4 threads on high priority for like 4 passes... if you pass go for the challenge bellow again and see what happens.

This is my challenge (even for anybody reading this on a whim... yes you lurkers smile.gif ). Stress "2" threads of your cpu with either intel burntest or Prime95. Stress "1" thread with the windows version of memtest with like maybe 2048mb used you can get it from: HERE (yes the little gui version that runs in windows). Then run Furmark on the onboard GPU, if you can run this for 20min-1hr your probably rock stable. Then just finish up with a long term test of "x264 Stability Test v2.06" (see above for how to download it) for like several hours (1-4hrs) if no problems your done otherwise go back and try again.


I'm sry if this has been Little long lol.... and I'm sure my grammar at this point is smashed to foobar... its been along day and this took awhile to type up.

Anyway have fun overclocking and learning new **** I'll see you around... I'll probably check back when I can IDK? maybe.
post #133 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by xXThePlague1Xx View Post

Hey bud, I just read most of these forum pages sry after like 10 I kinda quite lol, and I just wanted to say congrats on the pc you did a good job. I also have a similar background with technology and how its grown, it is truly amazing.

Sooo... I'd like to help just a tad. First off you actually dont have an FM2+ you do have an "FM2" big difference sry... unfortunately u cannot drop in an upgrade for a Kaveri FM2+ or any of the derivatives of a 7850k. That being said its really not a big deal anyway your 6800k when properly overclocked will perform pretty much identically like a Kaveri FM2+. I have overclocked on the f2a85x-up4 and have run my old 6800k at 4.8ghz 24/7... I also was able to bench at 5ghz but due to not having a good enough cooler at the time I had to keep it at 4.8ghz, I did all of this on a cooler master v6gt (basically a 212 evo) with dual corsair sp120s in push pull. Unfortunately I had bought a cheap PSU and used it from an earlier build so it was a couple of years old (1-2yrs) and it ended up killing the board and the cpu.

Ok on with the next part yea, if you had an fm2+ board the only upgrade I could recommend would be an athlon 870k but even then all kaveri/godveri fm2+ cpus clock up to a max of 4.4-.5ghz 24/7 stable.... Yea I know theres people out there that claim todo 4.5-4.7 but I call bull****. Either they're doing it wrong and there not actually all that stable (or VERY VERY VERY LUCKY... like loto winner lucky), Ive overclocked x1 5800k, x1 6800k, x1 6600k, x3 760ks, x2 7850ks, x2 860ks and an 870k (this ones mine smile.gif also some other OCs like a few phenom 2s, afew x6-x8 FXs and a couple of Intel Haswells from Celerons to i7s ). Since the term "stable" is relative anyway. Thats what I meant by 24/7 stable, which means for me your able to test all aspects of your systems including all realistic "instruction sets" of the cpu including in this case the CPU, GPU (onboard video since its an apu), and the memory controller/northbridge (NB for short).

when overclocking you need to have a stress test regime that encompasses all realistic instructions and tasks that your PC will do (see my challenge bellow for AMD APUs). while doing the actual stress testing use several different programs to check on Temps and Voltage, I like cpuz for the voltage on AMD of course when OC Intel its all about HWinfo64 (but thats a different discussion) and for temps its whatever works with your board. Unfortunately for fm2/+ apus this can be abit wonky to get actual temp readings.... since you have the f2a85x-up4 I would recommend using the gigabyte utility they give for the board I dont remember ATM since I haven't used it in awhile you can download it from they're website.

First for Voltage. NEVER go over 1.48-.49V for 24/7 OC Unless you have cooling that can keep the cpu at like 45C under max load... then maybe like 1.50-.55v but I still woudn't recommend it.

Second for the Temps. What your going for is in the 40-58C range... at like 60-65C the CPU will begin to throttle down in frequency and sometimes voltage depending on mobo... any higher than that at high voltage it will probably go POOF and never turn on again IDK? never done it wink.gif

The Actual process of overclocking these apus is simple.
First test max NB and RAM speeds using my challenge bellow. Start slow and work your way up you should be able to get about 2200mhz-2400mhz on the NB ( for the NB I believe it took 1.32-.35v to get 2200mhz-2300mhz? NB I cant remember and onboard video stable @1014mhz with 8GBs of 2400mhz DDR3 @ 9-10-10-24-1 timings) and depending on the RAM you can go up to 2400mhz with your DDR3. When you test all parts of the apu simultaneously it puts the most stress on it that can be achieved and if its not stable it WILL FAIL... See Below. A side note you really dont have to OC the onboard video just the NB cus you have a discrete video card. Just use it for stability for now so take (or disable... whatever works) out the GPU to use the onboard till your done OCing.
Second Overclock the CPU (under advanced core features) turn "off" core performance boost (disable) this should also turn "off" turbo cpb aswell otherwise (disable), you can leave cool&quiet (on) c6 (on) and svm (on). Start by leaving your voltage the same as stock and increase the core clock ratio one at a time until unstable (use method I will explain in a sec) then increase the voltage like x2 increments at a time test and continue... This little chart is awsome cus its pretty accurate, it shows freq, to voltage in bios, to what is show in cpuz, at what increment... I forgot who made it but props where due yea.... whoever made it your flippin awesome (probably Stilt or Flanker?) I also didnt put up the complete version that shows Kaveri and godveri because its irrelevant to this and theres way to much info on it.

| A10-6800k VOLTAGE TABLE
| =100 | CPUVolts | -/+ | .Volts. |.-/+ |.°C.|.Rpm..|
+Max-+-Max--+
| 3800 | 1.112500 | -32 | 1.15200 | -25 | 34 | 1689 |
| 3900 | 1.137500 | -28 | 1.18400 | -21 | 35 | 1700 |
| 4000 | 1.156250 | -25 | 1.20000 | -18 | 36 | 1693 |
| 4100 | 1.181250 | -21 | 1.22400 | -14 | 37 | 1698 |
| 4200 | 1.212500 | -16 | 1.26400 | -07 | 38 | 1698 |
| 4300 | 1.250000 | -10 | 1.30400 | -01 | 40 | 1701 |
| 4400 | 1.287500 | -04 | 1.35200 | +07 | 41 | 1706 |
| 4500 | 1.331250 | +03 | 1.40000 | +14 | 41 | 1713 |
| 4600 | 1.356250 | +07 | 1.43200 | +20 | 45 | 1821 |
| 4700 | 1.400000 | +14 | 1.48000 | +27 | 47 | 1869 |
| 4800 | 1.450000 | +22 | 1.54400 | +38 | 53 | 2091 |
| 4900 | 1.512500 | +32 | 1.62400 | +50 | 53 | 2057 |
| 5000 | 1.593750 | +45 | 1.70400 | +63 | 52 | 2011 |

| A10-5800k VOLTAGE TABLE
| =100 | CPUVolts | -/+ | .Volts. |.-/+ |.°C.|.Rpm..|
+Max-+-Max--+
| 3800 | 1.193750 | -19 | 1.21875 | -15 | ## | #### |
| 3900 | 1.212500 | -16 | 1.25000 | -10 | ## | #### |
| 4000 | 1.237500 | -12 | 1.28125 | -05 | ## | #### |
| 4100 | 1.268750 | -07 | 1.32500 | +02 | ## | #### |
| 4200 | 1.300000 | -02 | 1.35625 | +07 | ## | #### |
| 4300 | 1.343750 | +05 | 1.39375 | +13 | ## | #### |
| 4400 | 1.375000 | +10 | 1.42500 | +18 | ## | #### |
| 4500 | 1.418750 | +17 | 1.47500 | +26 | ## | #### |
| 4600 | 1.462500 | +24 | 1.55000 | +38 | 50 | #### |
| 4700 | 1.525000 | +34 | 1.62500 | +50 | 49 | 2311 |
| 4800 | 1.600000 | +46 | 1.70000 | +62 | 48 | 2261 |
| 4900 | 1.687500 | +60 | 1.77500 | +74 | 53 | 2410 |

Ok now on to the Voltage stability and misc info, to get your Voltage stable you'll have to use whats called LLC or "load line calibration" it compensates for voltage droop under load. Basically keeps the voltage from dropping below what you set in the bios when under load but if you set it high enough the voltage will spike and jump up too high when under load. So you'll have to change it depending one what voltage and freq you have set. You can find it in the "Advanced Voltage Settings" tab and your gonna have one for both the NB and CPU. The CPU one is easy as you just watch and compare what setting you have in bios to whats in cpuz try to get them as close as possible. The main thing is to get it so the voltage does NOT TWITCH or MOVE at ALL under load (this can be a whole other discussion on its own especially with asus fm2+ and intel boards equipped with Transient Frequency Response settings) this can be hard... you can try different LLC settings or change CPU voltage by x1 increment. Sometimes stability can be attained just by making sure the voltage doesn't twitch (also helps with benchmarks esp on "intel burntest" "standard test" if you can keep the voltage from twitching you'll get an extra gflop or so on your score per run). The NB LLC is kinda hard... play with the medium to high settings as theres no sensor reading to see if its drooping or not. Your power supply can effect this though so depending on how good it is it may be very hard if not impossible to get the voltage to not TWITCH.

Now for the CPU Stress regime only part (also my regime for regular CPU parts... small variations for intel tho but thats another discussion) use intel burntest (also prime95 use small FFTs or whatever you want I dont really use it anymore... burntest is faster) on standard test for 10 runs this should be "default" if you pass with your voltage NOT TWITCHING try a higher cpu multiplier until you want to go for 24/7 stability. Then move to the "x264 Stability Test v2.06". You can find it on the Haswell overclocking page from: HERE look under the Stressing portion of his post. Set to use all 4 threads on high priority for like 4 passes... if you pass go for the challenge bellow again and see what happens.

This is my challenge (even for anybody reading this on a whim... yes you lurkers smile.gif ). Stress "2" threads of your cpu with either intel burntest or Prime95. Stress "1" thread with the windows version of memtest with like maybe 2048mb used you can get it from: HERE (yes the little gui version that runs in windows). Then run Furmark on the onboard GPU, if you can run this for 20min-1hr your probably rock stable. Then just finish up with a long term test of "x264 Stability Test v2.06" (see above for how to download it) for like several hours (1-4hrs) if no problems your done otherwise go back and try again.


I'm sry if this has been Little long lol.... and I'm sure my grammar at this point is smashed to foobar... its been along day and this took awhile to type up.

Anyway have fun overclocking and learning new **** I'll see you around... I'll probably check back when I can IDK? maybe.


1.6 is fine
fx8350
(6 items)
 
x58 fun
(7 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
fx8350 @ 4.7 1.38 asus m5a97 r2.0 le modded with vrm heatsinks GTX 480 X2 @ 900/2000 depends on my mood ;) 
Hard DriveCooling
some off brand ssd  custom loop 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
w3520@ 4.5 p6t deluxe v2 6970 x2 @ 950 depends on my mood ;) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCooling
ssd who uses these? custom loop 
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fx8350
(6 items)
 
x58 fun
(7 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
fx8350 @ 4.7 1.38 asus m5a97 r2.0 le modded with vrm heatsinks GTX 480 X2 @ 900/2000 depends on my mood ;) 
Hard DriveCooling
some off brand ssd  custom loop 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
w3520@ 4.5 p6t deluxe v2 6970 x2 @ 950 depends on my mood ;) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCooling
ssd who uses these? custom loop 
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post #134 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xXThePlague1Xx View Post

Hey bud, I just read most of these forum pages sry after like 10 I kinda quite lol, and I just wanted to say congrats on the pc you did a good job. I also have a similar background with technology and how its grown, it is truly amazing.

Sooo... I'd like to help just a tad. First off you actually dont have an FM2+ you do have an "FM2" big difference sry... unfortunately u cannot drop in an upgrade for a Kaveri FM2+ or any of the derivatives of a 7850k. That being said its really not a big deal anyway your 6800k when properly overclocked will perform pretty much identically like a Kaveri FM2+. I have overclocked on the f2a85x-up4 and have run my old 6800k at 4.8ghz 24/7... I also was able to bench at 5ghz but due to not having a good enough cooler at the time I had to keep it at 4.8ghz, I did all of this on a cooler master v6gt (basically a 212 evo) with dual corsair sp120s in push pull. Unfortunately I had bought a cheap PSU and used it from an earlier build so it was a couple of years old (1-2yrs) and it ended up killing the board and the cpu.

........

Anyway have fun overclocking and learning new **** I'll see you around... I'll probably check back when I can IDK? maybe.



thumb.gifTHANK YOU. I really really appreciate the response man! I will admit, I didn't understand some of that stuff. But I can change that, just gotta do a little research and learn it. I did understand most of it and I really appreciate the time you took to break everything down and explain it to me, that's fantastic! And that table is SWEET

When I get enough time to get all the info that I need read I'll give this a shot again. I'll deff need to get it boosted up once I get a RX 480 in my rig otherwise It'll be slacking I'm sure. For the time being with my current card they're fairly well balanced so it's nice to not have either overpowering the other (from what I can tell)

And I DID see your part about the FM2 vs FM2+ Thanks for bringing that up. I forgot that my board was JUST FM2.

Question on the table, the numbers listed on the left are basically the core clock, correct? IF so, why start at 3.8 when the chip is stock at 4.1?

Cooler-wise I have (as I'm sure you saw) A hyper 212 evo running the stock fan push only. So far (stock 4.1 clock, I already have the turbo core and cool and quiet turned off) running during FO4 I peak around 35C on my CPU under stress with my room temp being above average (around 75F or higher). I want to get some SP120's to slap on it and do a push pull for when I OC, but I've seen tests that prove that a single push works best on that rad. But I'm the NOOB in this situation.

From my understanding my MOBO is pretty soild, am I right? Because that's the last thing I was thinking of upgrading. Other than a new 2TB WD black drive when it goes on sale the only other two upgrades I wanted was a slightly larger PSU and the RX 480 at the end of this month. MAYBE new RAM at some point.

RAM OC scares me. I don't know if I'm ever gonna attempt it or not. But I currently have ripjaws 1600mhz 8GB in right now, I want to upgrade to 16gb Corsair Vengeance @ 1866, or just future proof myself a bit and get 2400. But again I don't wanna go buy new RAM and get a DDR4 mobo in a year or so and need new RAM..

And speaking of the 480, anyone have any insight to whether I should buy the regular card, or should I wait for like a Gigabyte model or a Sapphire model?

I could ask thousands of questions (I already have probably and you answered many of them, thank you for that!) so any time you have time to burn I'm down for some mentoring! haha

It is great that we're in an age where we get to watch tech evolve at crazy paces, but also become affordable enough for us to get to buy and try out within our lifetimes, most of the time within a few short years after that tech has been created any more. You can get a smartwatch for $10. That's insane. Same with my PC, regardless if parts were used or not, I built a whole gaming PC for under $300. That was crazy to me.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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post #135 of 164
Thread Starter 
Update: Haven't really done much lately, however I continue to drool over the RX 480 leaks and whatnot. Sealed deal I'm gonna buy an 8GB card. No reason not to with the price quoted at $230. I have most of that saved up already. I do want to see a dual fan custom cooler option though. Preferrably Sapphire. RAM and WD black drive are the only two other upgrades I really need for the time being and I'll get them throughout the summer on some sales. Going for some 16GB 2400 RAM (Mobo can run 1866) and that will allow full mobo speed and future proofing for possible OC. Gonna grab a 1tb WD black drive and maybe eventually a 1tb WD blue to use as media storage.

SSDs arent' as trustworthy as I'd like yet. Despite being cheap enough to just replace if it dies I don't sit well with the fact that many completely die within 2-3 years. The hassle of reinstalling everything is enough to keep me away for now.

My 5" Pi-display is on the way from china, I got one with a plastic surround that will help clean up the install. Will post pics when I'm done with it. Since my current card only has 1HDMI port and so does the new RX480's that I've seen so far I got a Displayport---> HDMI cable to run to the little 5" display since it's an HDMI input. That should work out for my dual display.

Now I just need to read through some Rainmeter tutorials to figure out how to make a sweet stats monitor widget.
Edited by Tisser12 - 6/22/16 at 12:08pm
    
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post #136 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tisser12 View Post

SSDs arent' as trustworthy as I'd like yet. Despite being cheap enough to just replace if it dies I don't sit well with the fact that many completely die within 2-3 years. The hassle of reinstalling everything is enough to keep me away for now.
I've read several articles recently about stress tests on SSDs and their longevity. I wouldn't be so concerned. Most people reinstall windows every year or 2 anyway.
One thing I do to lessen the read/writes to my SSD is set the desktop folder to another drive, since I use the desktop as a dumping ground for files before they get sorted.
I have 3 SSDs in use currently, one is over 5 years old and my current C: drive is just over 2 years old now.
Edited by 7850K - 6/24/16 at 10:21am
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post #137 of 164
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7850K View Post

I've read several articles recently about stress tests on SSDs and their longevity. I wouldn't be so concerned. Most people reinstall windows every year or 2 anyway.
One thing I do to lessen the read/writes to my SSD is set the desktop folder to another drive, since I use the desktop as a dumping ground for files before they get sorted.
I have 3 SSDs in use currently, one is over 5 years old and my current C: drive is just over 2 years old now.

I have seen that they're getting better. But since I need a new main drive anyways a WD black will suffice for the time being till I'm fully satisfied with the performance and longevity of SSDs.
    
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post #138 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tisser12 View Post

I have seen that they're getting better. But since I need a new main drive anyways a WD black will suffice for the time being till I'm fully satisfied with the performance and longevity of SSDs.

i ran a original ocz vertex 30gb for 4 years as a boot drive and its still alive in a friends rig. SSds last forever.
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post #139 of 164
Thread Starter 
Watching the RX 480 launch intensely. Laughing at everyone trying to find any and every little thing wrong with the card as they can to diss it's existence. I'm personally waiting for a Sapphire AIB card to drop with dual coolers and see how nicely she runs. Then depeding on that performance might start getting into water *insert scared face here* with a small loop with the res and pump OUTSIDE of my PC. But that s*t still scares me.

In other news my little pi display came in today.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221972042028?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

My current ghetto rig until I get the screen mounted. Still gotta try to find a more flexible DP->Hdmi cable or somethin. The one I bought is ridiculous. I mean, it's fantastic quality, nice and thick how you'd want it, but I needed slightly lower quality and flimsy so I could flex it however I wanted/needed to haha. Next move is mounting it to the window of my case. I've decided to leave the window in tact and just attatch the screen directly to it from the inside, the screen is bright enough to shine through the tint on the window without affecting visibility. That will allow a much cleaner and easier installation also. Just sucks I spent the extra $15 to get the one with the acryllic case. (Original plan was to use the case to mount it through a cutout in the window)

Running as a second monitor for the time being, in the future I may purchase a Pi to attatch to the rear of it to run all sensors and programs. Would be very simple if I got android (CM) loaded up onto it.




Edited by Tisser12 - 7/19/16 at 6:49pm
    
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post #140 of 164
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tisser12 View Post

Watching the RX 480 launch intensely. Laughing at everyone trying to find any and every little thing wrong with the card as they can to diss it's existence. I'm personally waiting for a Sapphire AIB card to drop with dual coolers and see how nicely she runs. Then depeding on that performance might start getting into water *insert scared face here* with a small loop with the res and pump OUTSIDE of my PC. But that s*t still scares me.

In other news my little pi display came in today.

My current ghetto rig until I get the screen mounted. Still gotta try to find a more flexible DP->Hdmi cable or somethin. The one I bought is ridiculous. I mean, it's fantastic quality, nice and thick how you'd want it, but I needed slightly lower quality and flimsy so I could flex it however I wanted/needed to haha. Next move is mounting it to the window of my case. I've decided to leave the window in tact and just attatch the screen directly to it from the inside, the screen is bright enough to shine through the tint on the window without affecting visibility. That will allow a much cleaner and easier installation also. Just sucks I spent the extra $15 to get the one with the acryllic case. (Original plan was to use the case to mount it through a cutout in the window)

Running as a second monitor for the time being, in the future I may purchase a Pi to attatch to the rear of it to run all sensors and programs. Would be very simple if I got android (CM) loaded up onto it.




buy a referance card so you can go with a full cover block. Water really isnt anything to be scared of aslong as you test everything and make sure you have no leaks
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fx8350
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some off brand ssd  custom loop 
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