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CaseLabs Mercury S8 Custom Loop Design? - Page 2

post #11 of 56
Thread Starter 
The mount bracket comes with the pump unit.



Thanks!
Nice choice of colors thumb.gif
post #12 of 56
Thread Starter 
I'm looking at mounting the reservoir in the front of the middle 120x120mm fan location, but still can't figure out which reservoir to get, or how to connect it... thinking.gif



What would be the drawbacks of feeding the pump from the reservoir through a 3-way T-splitter?


Edited by liljestig - 8/6/16 at 7:47am
post #13 of 56
Innovative ... that's what I call that idea of the feed through the 3-way. It's certainly going to result in low turbulence in the res. If you're running a coolant with particles (Pastels for example) you'd probably get too much settling in the res.

How did the drain idea work out? I like that pump top and would love to see it in the clear plexi at some point.

Yes, my case is till in the box. I've been working on a D5 Strong driver board for my pumps so I haven't reached the computer build point yet. Too many other projects going on.
post #14 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by liljestig View Post


Hmm, I think this would be worth trying just to see anyway.

You might run into issues getting the air out of the loop initially I think. With a high flow dual D5 setup... it might be flowing so fast it sucks those air bubbles down again before they can rise into the res. If you can get all the air out I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work just fine after that though.

Also, if you're having issues with systems burning up there a number of ways to get better cooling.
  1. Thicker radiators (fin density)
  2. Push pull configurations on your radiators
  3. Better fans with higher static pressure (noctua might be fine)
  4. Make sure you stagger your radiators between your heat producers (CPU > Rad > GPUs > Rad > Pump/Res > Rad ... etc.)
  5. Since this is all a single loop, you might consider staggering in a DDC pump before your GPUs for head pressure.
  6. Ambient room temperatures directly affect cooling, if you have it zoned off lower the thermostat in your game room a few degrees.

Edited by Lucretius - 8/6/16 at 2:58pm
post #15 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by liljestig View Post

I'm looking at mounting the reservoir in the front of the middle 120x120mm fan location, but still can't figure out which reservoir to get, or how to connect it... thinking.gif


It works, I've seen another build featured in EK blog that is doing that with a T fitting

from EK blog https://www.ekwb.com/blog/gigabyte-bench-table-by-phenom-design/

(check out the other pictures of that build to understand the full water flow)

It might not be exactly the same idea as yours, but it's the same concept, the Reservoir is there to maintain water level, but is passive to the rest of the system

the rest of the system will just recirculate the existing water that is already in the loop.





BTW, thanks for your detailed build log pictures, I'll be doing the same shortly, my Mercury S8 is still... "This order is marked as Awaiting Fulfillment"

What size is the radiator you are using in the lower left side

if you mount 120x25mm fans on the outside are you still able to close the door?

from your pictures it looks like it has barely any room for the fans, after the radiator is mounted.

or a better question is, can that 360 fan/radiator holder be used flipped over?


I ordered the case already but there are still so many unknown questions, as it might or might not affect how Thick a radiator I can fit in there.

according to other S8 owners a 60mm radiator + fans will be too thick for that lower left compartment.
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post #16 of 56
Thread Starter 
I made 60mm (diameter) by 150mm and 250mm respectively (length) paper model reservoirs with some thoughts.

Taller (250mm) reservoir (not in picture):
  • More difficult to access top port for filling and bleeding the system.
  • Horizontal ports line up too close to the pump's IN port.

Shorter (150mm) reservoir (as shown):
  • Easier to access top port for filling and bleeding the system.
  • Horizontal ports interfere with E-ATX motherboard tray (as indicated by ruler).



Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

Innovative ... that's what I call that idea of the feed through the 3-way. It's certainly going to result in low turbulence in the res. If you're running a coolant with particles (Pastels for example) you'd probably get too much settling in the res.

However the conclusion to look for a 150mm reservoir and feed the pump from under the reservoir rise new questions.

Return to reservoir:
  • Need to solve clearance issue with EATX motherboard tray.
  • How to minimize turbulence inside the reservoir?

Return to 3-way T-splitter:
  • Difficult to bleed?
  • Other unknowns?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Master Chicken View Post

How did the drain idea work out? I like that pump top and would love to see it in the clear plexi at some point.

I haven't really come around to look closer at the drain port part of the design yet. Although the technical port definitely looks like it could be used with a ball valve as a such, since it is **not recommended**, I'm also considering using the pump's OUT port with a 3-way T-splitter and a ball valve. Nevertheless the pump is indeed a solid piece of engineering providing lots of options (to be continued).


Edited by liljestig - 8/8/16 at 8:56am
post #17 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius View Post

You might run into issues getting the air out of the loop initially I think. With a high flow dual D5 setup... it might be flowing so fast it sucks those air bubbles down again before they can rise into the res. If you can get all the air out I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work just fine after that though.

Yeah, this (and any related issues) are my main concerns too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius View Post

Also, if you're having issues with systems burning up there a number of ways to get better cooling.
  1. Thicker radiators (fin density)
  2. Push pull configurations on your radiators
  3. Better fans with higher static pressure (noctua might be fine)
  4. Make sure you stagger your radiators between your heat producers (CPU > Rad > GPUs > Rad > Pump/Res > Rad ... etc.)
  5. Since this is all a single loop, you might consider staggering in a DDC pump before your GPUs for head pressure.
  6. Ambient room temperatures directly affect cooling, if you have it zoned off lower the thermostat in your game room a few degrees.

These are all very good points, thanks! thumb.gif
post #18 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by liljestig View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius View Post

You might run into issues getting the air out of the loop initially I think. With a high flow dual D5 setup... it might be flowing so fast it sucks those air bubbles down again before they can rise into the res. If you can get all the air out I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work just fine after that though.

Yeah, this (and any related issues) are my main concerns too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucretius View Post

Also, if you're having issues with systems burning up there a number of ways to get better cooling.
  1. Thicker radiators (fin density)
  2. Push pull configurations on your radiators
  3. Better fans with higher static pressure (noctua might be fine)
  4. Make sure you stagger your radiators between your heat producers (CPU > Rad > GPUs > Rad > Pump/Res > Rad ... etc.)
  5. Since this is all a single loop, you might consider staggering in a DDC pump before your GPUs for head pressure.
  6. Ambient room temperatures directly affect cooling, if you have it zoned off lower the thermostat in your game room a few degrees.

These are all very good points, thanks! thumb.gif

#4 is actually incorrect. The water moves so fast through the loop that the temp will equalize and at most you would have a 1-2 degree difference in water temp in any point in the loop, which will make no difference in cooling performance. Best bet is to route everything the way that is easiest for you.
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post #19 of 56
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

It works, I've seen another build featured in EK blog that is doing that with a T fitting

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
from EK blog https://www.ekwb.com/blog/gigabyte-bench-table-by-phenom-design/

(check out the other pictures of that build to understand the full water flow)

It might not be exactly the same idea as yours, but it's the same concept, the Reservoir is there to maintain water level, but is passive to the rest of the system

the rest of the system will just recirculate the existing water that is already in the loop.

Although it looks like they are actually using the reservoirs in the "traditional way" (by joining in- and outgoing flows from the radiator and pump respectively) it still give me an idea of using the EK-RES X3 in a similar way.



Perhaps I could use one underside port to feed the pump and one horizontal port for the return with IN and OUT on opposite sides of the anti-cyclone to minimize vortex? rolleyes.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

BTW, thanks for your detailed build log pictures, I'll be doing the same shortly, my Mercury S8 is still... "This order is marked as Awaiting Fulfillment"

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
What size is the radiator you are using in the lower left side

if you mount 120x25mm fans on the outside are you still able to close the door?

from your pictures it looks like it has barely any room for the fans, after the radiator is mounted.

or a better question is, can that 360 fan/radiator holder be used flipped over?


I ordered the case already but there are still so many unknown questions, as it might or might not affect how Thick a radiator I can fit in there.

according to other S8 owners a 60mm radiator + fans will be too thick for that lower left compartment.

Many thanks! thumb.gif

The radiators are Alphacool nexXxos ST30 Full Copper 360 (30mm thick). The one in the lower left chamber is sitting recessed on the 'outside' with push-only fans mounted on the 'inside' of the bracket. There isn't enough room for additional fans on the outside of the radiator and close the door with this setup.

If looking for push-pull one could mount fans on the 'outside' of the bracket (instead of the radiator in my case), and then radiator and fans on the 'inside'. I was considering push-pull for these builds at first (as probably needed for thicker radiators to reach their full potential), but decided against it due to the possible chance of higher noise levels. There are pictures in the beginning of this thread measuring the available space in the lower left chamber for radiator and fans.
Edited by liljestig - 8/8/16 at 1:33am
post #20 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deedaz View Post

#4 is actually incorrect. The water moves so fast through the loop that the temp will equalize and at most you would have a 1-2 degree difference in water temp in any point in the loop, which will make no difference in cooling performance. Best bet is to route everything the way that is easiest for you.
Quote:
1-2 degree difference in water temp

You're assuming high flow, which may not be true... and still 2c might be the difference between a burned up component and a functional component (temperature will vary more in lower flow systems). OP did say he is frying equipment.
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